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Brand New Rabbit Diesel by ffgb on 07 Dec, 2009 00:01
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I just recently purchased a 1984 vw rabbit diesel. The odometer is stuck at 57,000 miles. It starts up fine but smokes when driving, especially during acceleration. It burns oil too. It is definitely leaking fuel from the injector pump. I have a puddle of fuel under the car/IP where ever I drive too. My max speed on the freeway with the 4-speed is 60-62mph. I would like to get this car back to drivable condition. What do I need to do? I am fairly mechanically inclined, but this is the first diesel I have ever owned. Things I think I need are: reseal IP with new viton seals, install new injectors, change timing belt, and possibly glow plugs. Also, where would I purchase these items and the necessary tools if in a kit form? Sorry for the long message!
Thank You
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#1 by maxfax on 07 Dec, 2009 00:29
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Welcome!!! No apologies needed for a long message, I'm much more long winded by far..
The first thing to get is the Bentley repair manual!! Tons of technical goodies with all the specs and stuff.. These can be had rather reasonably from Amazon and such...
Most definitely you need to change the timing belt and tensioner, new injectors can;t hurt either.. Make sure you use new heat shields (the little copperish seal under the injector) Since you will have the pump off for a reseal glow plugs aren;t a bad idea as they are much easier to change at that time.. One other thing woudl be a water pump.. Much easier to change while the timing belt is off.. Since you have to remove the valve cover to lock the cam you'll need a new v/c gasket as well.. The steel reinforced rubber ones are a good upgrade! They seal much better and can be reused several times..
AS far as tools, other than your basic run of the mill metric hand tools (including metric allen wrenches) you will need the tools to lock the cam and injector pump, as well as a dial indicator to set the timing.. A spanner wrench to turn the timing belt tensioner is helpful but it can be done with out..
For the timing tools the best bang for this buck is this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Audi-Jetta-Diesel-Injection-timing-Set-New_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20ae6e5dabQQitemZ140365421995QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools
THe dial indicator is in metric and is a very decent quality set for the price.. At the least the dial indicator and adapter are needed, the cam can be locked with a piece of flat metal, the IP can be locks with a piece of round metal.. There is also this set http://www.dieselvw.com/VWDieselTimingBeltToolsandGauge.htm Although a cheaper option, it is just that, cheap.. Not to mention this particular seller (do a search for "Prothe") has been known to be shady.. I would caution buying any parts from him.. Especially an injection pump!!! They are at best a poor book end..
I'm sort of at a loss for parts vendors as the one I have used for years retired and closed up shop, but check out the vendors section on here.. Myke_W, Giles at performance Diesel (Burn_your_money works for him), and a few others will set you up at a reasonable price with quality parts. THey help support this forum as well.. There are a few other vendors out there such as The Parts Place that are reputable (I guess they are reputable??), I'm sure others can chime in with suggestions.. -
#2 by ffgb on 07 Dec, 2009 20:13
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Besides a reseal kit, are there any other parts that I should replace in the inside of the IP? I definitely know that there is more than 57,000 on this motor, and I don't know the exact history of everything on this car. I think it would be a good thing to replace certain items such as bushings for example so I don't run into problems later down the road. I would like to have piece of mind knowing that if I have to take apart the IP again, I know it is only for the seals leaking and nothing else internally.
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#3 by maxfax on 07 Dec, 2009 21:47
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Replacing the main shaft, and throttle shaft bushings wouldn't be a bad idea at all.. A thorough check of the lift pump can't hurt either... WHile you have it opened up the governor mod is kinda fun too....
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#4 by doonboggle on 24 Dec, 2009 10:45
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Original hoses with the new diesel fuel still there? If so, consider changing to newer style to overcome the fuel caused degeneration.
I just recently purchased a 1984 vw rabbit diesel. The odometer is stuck at 57,000 miles. It starts up fine but smokes when driving, especially during acceleration. It burns oil too. It is definitely leaking fuel from the injector pump. I have a puddle of fuel under the car/IP where ever I drive too. My max speed on the freeway with the 4-speed is 60-62mph. I would like to get this car back to drivable condition. What do I need to do? I am fairly mechanically inclined, but this is the first diesel I have ever owned. Things I think I need are: reseal IP with new viton seals, install new injectors, change timing belt, and possibly glow plugs. Also, where would I purchase these items and the necessary tools if in a kit form? Sorry for the long message!
Thank You -
#5 by dieselweasel on 25 Dec, 2009 09:05
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Welcome! You'll find pretty much everything you need to know here.
I think you need to assess the overall engine condition before spending time and money on the inj pump, injectors, timing belt, etc. You say it burns oil. How much oil does it use? Is there oil in the coolant? Any leaks? Is the engine is turbo what condition is it in? A diesel compression tester might be a wise investment. A compression test will give you an indication of the condition of the cylinders and valves. If the compression numbers are low, you'll need to investigate and remedy the cause before doing anything else. -
#6 by ffgb on 25 Dec, 2009 15:53
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I just bought a diesel compression tester, will use it next week. The injection pump is leaking, so I am going to attempt to reseal it because it needs to stop leaking, also I am loosing prime. It burns about 1qt every 30 miles, yeah I know, pretty bad. The PO didn't know anything about cars. It definitely needs new rings. I am going to take the head off after the compression test. I really don't think it is a valve stem seal issue because of the amount of oil that I am loosing, but you never know, we'll see after the compression test. I hope the compression is good and it is only the valve stem seals. At any rate, I would probably still re-hone the cylinders if the compression was borderline and use Grant Piston rings, because everyone here rates them great and also after the re-honing, I will have piece of mind, also send the head out to get cleaned and replace the valve stem seals.
I don't have any oil in the coolant what so ever, so I at least know that the headgasket is good. -
#7 by Rabbit on Roids on 29 Dec, 2009 13:05
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I just bought a diesel compression tester, will use it next week. The injection pump is leaking, so I am going to attempt to reseal it because it needs to stop leaking, also I am loosing prime. It burns about 1qt every 30 miles, yeah I know, pretty bad. The PO didn't know anything about cars. It definitely needs new rings. I am going to take the head off after the compression test. I really don't think it is a valve stem seal issue because of the amount of oil that I am loosing, but you never know, we'll see after the compression test. I hope the compression is good and it is only the valve stem seals. At any rate, I would probably still re-hone the cylinders if the compression was borderline and use Grant Piston rings, because everyone here rates them great and also after the re-honing, I will have piece of mind, also send the head out to get cleaned and replace the valve stem seals.
I don't have any oil in the coolant what so ever, so I at least know that the headgasket is good.
one quart in 30 miles? and it doesnt run away? thats absolutely amazing. i thought i owned the most oil hungry rig on the forum, but i guess not. is ether required to start that biotch? my audi is addicted... -
#8 by ffgb on 30 Dec, 2009 16:00
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Nope, it doesn't runaway. It starts right up fine. No problems other than the oil burning issue. I drive it on the streets and on the freeway. It smokes more on the streets though. Going to do a compression test tomorrow. If the compression numbers come out fine, I am at a loss for words to why it is burning that much oil. I guess it can be a headgasket or something, particularly one of the oil holes in the gasket.