Quick Mk1 engine mount and strut questions...

[Luckypabst]

First, is it possible to change the passenger side engine mount without removing the bracket from the engine? I understand I'll need to lift the engine to clear the frame tabs. Can it be done with a C-frame ball joint press?

Next, is there enough room to tilt the struts out - after removing the spring - and swapping the cartridge without upsetting the alignment adjustment?

In general - is there any internal difference between the Bilstein strut cartridges vs. their entire replacement strut?

Thanks
Chris

[rabbitman]

I assume your talking about mk1?

I don't know how your gonna remove the spring before you tilt the strut out.

You can pop the ball joint out of the control arm, undo the top strut mount and pop the tie rod out off. Then you can take the whole deal out and put it in a vice.

If you don't have a spring compressor you can use the cars weight, remove the nut on top and then jack the car up then do the above procedure.

[rs899]

I would be very careful working on struts without the proper spring compressor.  I don't know how it would be possible to install the spring "with the using the weight of the car " method. 

I frequently pull MK1 struts and take them to shops for repair.  What I do is spray paint witness marks on the strut adjustment flange (where they bolt to the steering knuckle/wheel bearing housing) and remove those two bolts and the two on top of the upper strut mount.  You should not have an alignment problem if you take that approach.

Rick

[Luckypabst]

There's no issue with removing the spring. Using the weight of the car doesn't work (safely)... I've tried it and you can't lower things enough to release all of the spring tension. Spring compressors are cheap and readily available, however.

I need to know if the strut can be tilted out far enough (after the spring is compressed) to slide the insert out of the strut body without disrupting any other fasteners.

I'm trying to avoid marking the strut placement to eliminate the possibility of screwing something up, and to keep the wrench time to a minimum.

Thanks
Chris

[burn_your_money]

Undo the 30mm axle nut and the mounting points where the control arm meets the body. That will give you enough room to do what you need to do. If you remove the fender you probably could do it. It's been a while since I worked on a mk1 though