Timing Mark off?

[Makebeleaf]

96' Golf 1.9 TD AAZ

I am new to doing timing but have I looked at the how to's and am following the directions.

I have the cam locked and the lobes up:








I have the IP Pump locked:





But the timing mark is off:






When the timing mark is centered dead on I can't get the drill bit into the IP sprocket hole. I did however get the next smaller sized bit into the hole on a slight angle.

How do I get everything lined up? Also, can someone tell me the size of the 12pt socket for the crankshaft sprocket?

[Vincent Waldon]

19mm, and the step you seem to be be missing is "loosen the camshaft sprocket so that it rotates freely".

It's also worth noting that you have a pre-calibrated pump, so you don't need the dial indicator... the pump is now timed thanks to the drill bit.

Additional pictures etc... as above, you can ignore all the the dial indicator parts:

http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28

[Makebeleaf]

So, by loosening the Cam sprocket that will allow me to turn the timing mark back to center without the IP sprocket moving?

If I try to turn the Crank back to center with drillbit in IP sprocket won't  something bind or break?

[Makebeleaf]

Is it safe to use a 6 point 19mm?

[Vincent Waldon]

Is it safe to use a 6 point 19mm?

Won't fit.

[Vincent Waldon]

So, by loosening the Cam sprocket that will allow me to turn the timing mark back to center without the IP sprocket moving?

If I try to turn the Crank back to center with drillbit in IP sprocket won't  something bind or break?

If you begin at the beginning:

- get the cam to TDC, lock it, loosen the cam sprocket
- loosen the tensioner
- get the engine to TDC
- get the pump to TDC and lock it

EDIT:  on the pre-calibrated AAZ pumps you'll want to loosen the three outer bolts on the IP sprocket as well so that the pump can be locked down

everything will magically line up the way Otto Diesel intended.  If it doesn't something is likely off a tooth.

It will be a bit finicky.. in particular... you'll discover that the engine likes to wander away from TDC as you work on it... but keep at it and you'll get 'er.

Most important safety tip of all... when you're done and you've pulled all the locks turn the engine over by hand (with the 19mm 12-point) a couple of revolutions *before* attempting to start the engine.  If you do that you'll quickly discover if you've made any mistakes before Mr. Valve hits Mr. Piston.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

- get the cam to TDC, lock it, loosen the cam sprocket
- loosen the tensioner
- get the engine to TDC
- get the pump to TDC and lock it

"The Condensed Recipe"

Should put that in the pre-text of the walkthrough !

[Makebeleaf]

Ok great! I think that the loosening of the tensioner is where it will help. I'm just thinking now that it doesn't really matter about getting everything lined up.
I am trying to get everything lined up with the old belt whereas I'll just wait  until I take the old one off, line everything up and put the new timing belt on.

I have read the forums about proper belt tensioning with the tensioning tool (which I don't have). Am I going to be able to tension it without the tool? By Feel?

I am also changing the seals in the crankshaft, camshaft and intermediate shaft to hopefully fix the oil leak .
I just realized that I believe I have to take the the cover behind the sprockets off.
If I remove the IP sprocket, how to I put it back on properly? Does it only slide on one way. Do I just take off the centre bolt or do I need to loosen the 3 bolts?
It looks like the 3 bolts hold the mark gauge to the sprocket.

[Makebeleaf]

Also, has anyone taken off the crankshaft sprocket by locking the teeth with a crowbar/screwdriver after removing the starter as stated in the Hanyes manual?
I don't have a crankshaft tool.

[theman53]

I have seen a picture on here of a guy using a cresent wrench on one of the cam lobes.

[Makebeleaf]

No no....Crankshaft, not Camshaft...

[Vincent Waldon]

Also, has anyone taken off the crankshaft sprocket by locking the teeth with a crowbar/screwdriver after removing the starter as stated in the Hanyes manual?
I don't have a crankshaft tool.

I've done it once under adverse conditions using a crowbar as a lock thru the timing access cover on the tranny... perhaps less work than removing the starter... but either should work.

As you probably are aware be sure to renew the bolt... it's single-use only.

[Makebeleaf]

Thanks... That helps...Didn't know about replacing the bolt!

I hate to repeat myself by this is a bit important:

"I just realized that I believe I have to take the the cover behind the sprockets off.
If I remove the IP sprocket, how to I put it back on properly? Does it only slide on one way. Do I just take off the centre bolt or do I need to loosen the 3 bolts?
It looks like the 3 bolts hold the mark gauge to the sprocket."

[Vincent Waldon]

The big pulley/harmonic damper is held on to the crank sprocket with the three hex machine screws that surround the big bolt.  It *looks* like you need to remove the centre bolt...particularly if there is lots of rust... but some PB Blaster / Liquid Wrench and gentle tapping with a rubber hammer will usually break it loose.

On the IP you want to leave the centre bolt alone 'cause it's calibrated (hence the yellow paint).  Removing the three outside bolts will free up the pulley... and you need 'em loose anyways to finialize the timing when you put it all back together again.

[Makebeleaf]

Thanks!

Used crowbar through the hole....got sprocket off, changed seals (crank, intermediate, and cam) got it all back together and timed (I think?) as I turn it over by hand after it gets hard (the compression point I think) I hear a very faint click that I'm not sure what it is....maybe coming from the intermediate shaft? Anyway, started and fired up...No explosions! hooray!
Just have to take it out for a spin now.....But have the weird bouncing belt.

See: Aux belt....tensioner? 

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?board=7.0