Help! Pump tweaking probs :(

[dts67]

Heres the story , I fitted an 11mm head to my pump but used the wrong springs(9mm head) and the car stopped going under load at 4.5k rpm as the camplate skipped on the rollers, also I've shimmed the gov lever. I got a new pump so I could mod the advance system before I fitted the proper springs from the 11mm donor pump(the cars my daily driver so cant be off the road for long).
I grinded 1.5mm to 2mm off the edge of the advance piston so it could travel further and increased the internal pressure via tapping the regulator pin no more than 1/4 of a mm, its the standard regulator not the one from the 11mm donor pump. I drilled the casing to move the the governor regulator but have not adjusted it yet just checked it was moving free but it could be moved more than an 1/8 of a turn. I then fitted the 11mm head with the correct springs from the 11mm donor pump. All this was done to my new spare pump I never seen going and not the running one that was on the car.
The car starts sort of ok 3-4 turns of the starter (used to start half a turn of the engine) but sounds like theres waaaaay to much advance, sounds and drives exactly like when I fitted a 'di' camplate with standard levers, very little fuel and lots and lots of advance
Anyone any ideas to what I've done wrong before I get back at it tomorrow?

[anto]

Con the guys on here advised me to use the pressure regulator from the 11mm pump.
Upon comparing a 306 regulator and a transit regulator the transit regulator has bigger holes in it which may make a difference.
Try it and see.
Also if you have too much advance at idle just readjust the static timing till its better?

[zukgod1]

Whats the internal pressure set at?

Just Tapping the regulator is not a good way of setting it..

[410]

I tried adjusting my internal pressure the same way but I did have a gauge on it.  Internal pressures went through the roof after a couple light taps!  At idle it was pretty much the same but as soon as the rpms came up, internal pressure climbed way too fast.  I was getting about 40-45 psi at 2000 rpm before I started screwing around to well over 100 psi at 2000rpm.  I had to remove the regulator, take it apart and punch the pin back and start again.  Pressure went so high it blew my gauge off the pump.

I found 40-45 psi at 2000 worked the best.  Just make sure the bleed hole in the governor shaft is not being covered by the governor except at wot otherwise this pressure setting is no longer adequite.

As far as the spings for the 11mm head, check out posts by hey under building an mtdi pump in the faqs section.  There's some actual measurements for certain springs using different pump heads.  I know you're not using this pump for a tdi but the info is relevant to your build.  You can shim the head springs for more top end but this puts more stain on the pump itself.  Hope some of this helps.

[anto]

How would we know if the bleed hole in the governor shaft was being covered or not 410?

Zukgod - what other way is there of adjusting internal pressure?

[Rabbit on Roids]

the pump will leak from every seal most likely if the bleed hole were plugged. the pump internal pressure would be like 800'000 psi. haha.

[410]

You can't really tell if the bleed hole is plugged or not in the 1.6 pump once assembled but the aaz pump has a solenoid that plugs the line from the bleed hole on the governor shaft.  With a gauge at idle you'll see about a 20 psi increase in pressure when that solenoid is energized. 

To know when the bleed is plugged on the 1.6 pump, you need a pressure gauge and road test.  In a higher gear at fairly low rpms,  you can see an increase in internal pressure when you step on it.  It's very obvious as it's a sudden increase in pressure not related to engine rpm hence using a taller gear.  You can also hear it if you listen carefully, the engine sound changes quite abrubtly at this point as well. 

I have noticed that some 1.6 pumps are adjusted so the bleed hole never gets covered even at full load.  If this is the case then adjusting the governor shaft into the pump will activate this feature to give you more timing under load conditions.
 

[dts67]

Took at it at this morning oh dear, really stupid basic mistake, camplate 180deg out......cant believe it started......
At least I spotted it right away 
Anyway the cars going great now pulls ok all the way to 5k+
Tapping the regulator was stupid and I'm getting the same symptoms as said above, wots' great but at cruise its really loud, must fit an original regulator and a gauge, suppose its the only way to do it right. The note of the engine does change slightly like I've read on here theres more of a roar with a bit shaved off the piston.

[Vincent Waldon]

I have a 10bar VDO oil pressure sensor plumbed into my IP and a SPDT switch on my dash so that my oil pressure gauge can also read fuel pressure... once a geek, always a geek:



10 bar sensor has half the sensitivity of the 5 bar sensor so you just double the pressure readings to read internal pump pressure.  Haven't thought to look for bleed hole activity... something new to distract me!! ;-)