Couple of q's regarding a GTD

[American Dan]

Ok I have a 85 Golf Gl in which I have put a SB into. 

1.  Been a while since I've had an old IDI think I might need new mounts as it feels like it is going to rattle the car apart.
     I came with a rubber rear mounting is this right?  Thought it would have been a hydro mount.

2.  I have yet to get a larger bore exhaust for it.  I am running the 1.6 gas exhaust on it for now.  Wondered if this would be
     causing the lack of boost feeling?  As I don't seem to hear the turbo spool (garret T2)

3.  Anyone ever have problems with temp senders for the gauge dying very quickly?  Gauge didn't work so checked ground,
     that was good so grounded the sensor wire and it shot to the top.  Replaced sensor worked for 2 days then dead.
     Been through 3 sensors now.  Leaning to the printed circuit.  As when I turn the head lights, not the parking lights the
     guage goes to about 1/4 up and stays till I turn off the headlights.

Any help is greatly appreciated also suggestions are more than welcome.

Dan

[vwjones]

I have a 2.75 back exhaust.  the t2 doesn't make alot of noise compared to other turbo's.  at least mine doesn't.  the t2 has an adjustable boost in the back.  just take the arm that attaches to the wastegate and it is threaded.  if you shorten it then it preloads the spring. mine was set at stock of 7psi boost.  about one  turn of the threaded arm per psi.  I've heard that the T2 is safe up to about 15 psi which is what mine is running.  The blow off valve is also adjustable by turning the screw at the top clockwise.  My senders were also dead so I just mounted new ones in a different spot and haven't had any trouble since

[American Dan]

Might have to try that with my T2.  Planning on getting a larger bore exhaust just a bit short of funds at the moment.
Just want to make sure that I don't kill my turbo or something with a smaller than normal exhaust was all.  Also what do you
mean you relocated the temp sender.  I am speaking of the black 2-pin that is in the front flange.

[vwjones]

i  bought a gauge with it's own sender and relocated it in the water hose near the original sender by soldering the sender fitting to a piece of copper pipe the same size as the water hose and splicing it into the hose, putting the new sender there. 

[American Dan]

Ah ok is it a common fault with the older diesels then?  I've been into dubs for a long while now but normally the 16V variety lol.

[American Dan]

Only one person has anything to say   

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

Only one person has anything to say   

With your gauges, a possible  culprit would be the voltage regulator not stabilising.
When you remove the gauge and open it up what do you find?
If your engine is a little shakey, try raising the revs slightly to see if it goes away. If not then perhaps an injector is playing up slightly. Altring the timing a smidgeon might help too...

[American Dan]

Found the culprit to the shaking, it was the rear engine mount.  My mate was the one who bolted the 1.6 in there are never did the rear mount which is non-existent.
Was trying to change it out but must have been there since 1985.  everything is rusted solid.  Got the short bolt off and broke the long one. It seems like where the
long one goes through the subfame is solid with rust.  Tried and tried but it is so stuck  .  Might try to get a new bracket from vw since I can't seem to find one on
ebay here in the UK.

I thought that if the Voltage regulator was duff none of the gauges would not work?

Also need to check the t-belt as my mate put that on without locking tools and just to where it was before.  Which could be wrong.  I seem to get alot of whiteish
smoke above 3k.

[Zulfiqar]

gauges playing up - bad ground connections somewhere to the body - when the regulator goes to the loo all the gauges will be at 0 or 1..

Gauges moving with lights - bad grounds - fix em and add another from the exhaust manifold to the firewall.

[vwjones]

Found the culprit to the shaking, it was the rear engine mount.  My mate was the one who bolted the 1.6 in there are never did the rear mount which is non-existent.
Was trying to change it out but must have been there since 1985.  everything is rusted solid.  Got the short bolt off and broke the long one. It seems like where the
long one goes through the subfame is solid with rust.  Tried and tried but it is so stuck  .  Might try to get a new bracket from vw since I can't seem to find one on
ebay here in the UK.


just get the timing tools and put the belt on properly and then time the IP after the belt is on.  I tried to cheap out at first and just do it "by ear" and never did get it right.  I bought the tools and timed it before I pup the engine into the car and it was perfect.  spend the money IMO
I thought that if the Voltage regulator was duff none of the gauges would not work?

Also need to check the t-belt as my mate put that on without locking tools and just to where it was before.  Which could be wrong.  I seem to get alot of whiteish
smoke above 3k.

[Rabbit TD]

Found the culprit to the shaking, it was the rear engine mount.  My mate was the one who bolted the 1.6 in there are never did the rear mount which is non-existent.
Was trying to change it out but must have been there since 1985.  everything is rusted solid.  Got the short bolt off and broke the long one. It seems like where the
long one goes through the subfame is solid with rust.  Tried and tried but it is so stuck  .  Might try to get a new bracket from vw since I can't seem to find one on
ebay here in the UK.


just get the timing tools and put the belt on properly and then time the IP after the belt is on.  I tried to cheap out at first and just do it "by ear" and never did get it right.  I bought the tools and timed it before I pup the engine into the car and it was perfect.  spend the money IMO
I thought that if the Voltage regulator was duff none of the gauges would not work?

Also need to check the t-belt as my mate put that on without locking tools and just to where it was before.  Which could be wrong.  I seem to get alot of whiteish
smoke above 3k.

I guarantee you if it was just set close to where it was before visualy it is probably pretty far off.  I never would have believed how sensitive these pumps are to movement when timing until I got the guage a few years ago.

[American Dan]

Well everything looked pretty good belt wise. Next thing on the list is a adapter and dti.  I had the locking tools from
working at VW. Just so you guys know the cam tool for the pdi engine fits perfect no play at all.

[vwjones]

Well everything looked pretty good belt wise. Next thing on the list is a adapter and dti.  I had the locking tools from
working at VW. Just so you guys know the cam tool for the pdi engine fits perfect no play at all.

actually the problem with the timing is not the belt notches as much as timing the IP after you get the belt lined up properly.  i'm not sure i got that across since I screwed up and put my response in the quote line.  there is a tool that fits on a dial indicator that screws into the ip and measures where your pump is at top dead center.  then you loosen the bolts of the ip and spin it around until you get the appropriate reading at the pump when you are all lined up with the pump pulley, crank and flywheel.  I timed my GTD at about .99 mm.  I think the timing can be different if you have certain mods but that will get you close.  this setting is independent of the belt notches and takes place only with the injection pump.  just because the pulleys line up does not mean your injection pump is properly timed, and that can cause shaking and rough running.  but certainly fix the mount.  should be a fairly easy fabrication.