It's not that hard, but there's always the rusted/snapped studs that can makes things way more complicated. Other than that, there is the issue of balancing that you can't DIY.
yes, I know about the balancing...
Theres a local shop that will do it for $75..
I think I paid about that much to have Turbo City in Orange County balance mine and tumble the aluminum parts and ship it back to me.
Otherwise, if I did it again I'd only buy OEM parts, not blister packed Chinese parts.
Chris
yes, I know about the balancing...
Theres a local shop that will do it for $75..
I've never rebuilt one but had one apart about halfway though. I still don't understand why they need rebalanced if you make a blade to housing scribe mark on each end before you take them apart and line them up before the shaft nut is torqued unless a new turbine or compressor wheel is used in the rebuild. As long as the marks line up how can it be off?
if you are using the same shaft/compressor wheel/turbine wheel, then sure, make your marks, take it apart, rebuild it, clock the marks in the same place and tighten everything back down. if you didnt change any hard parts, then you should still be in balance.
Yes, Dieselicious sells rebuild kits with good instructions. Care required, but not difficult.
You can get TI nut's and bolts from Mettec.com
Econel is the best if you can find that type of hardware for Temp.
Iam a aircraft guy so I know...
Gee-Bee
if you are using the same shaft/compressor wheel/turbine wheel, then sure, make your marks, take it apart, rebuild it, clock the marks in the same place and tighten everything back down. if you didnt change any hard parts, then you should still be in balance.
is this still true if i have to change the bearing's as well?
i have a turbo that needs rebuilding, it has no play in the shaft but the it spins pretty freely then goes stiff, there's no damage to the housing or fan blades, does it sound like shafted bearings?
you want to make sure the compressor wheel and turbine are clocked the same. make 2 marks on the wheels that both point up at the same spot. then you will have reference marks. if you take the compressor off (witch i dunno how you will change bearings without taking the turbine and compressor out) you need to make sure theat they are clocked the same when you put the new bearings and seals in. otherwise you will need to get it re balanced. ask me how i know this...