new injection pump......junk?

[92-Eco]

I just installed my rebuilt injection pump about a month ago. I had to set all the adjustments on the pump, idle, fuel screw and all that, timed it at .040". It has ran great for about a month now, no leaks, misses or anything and the other morning i went out to start it and nothing, just cranked and cranked not even trying to start. So i took the fuel line off and there where wasnt any fuel in the supply line to the pump that came out (i dont have the clear tubing). I filled the line up with fuel and then topped off the fuel filter with a little more fuel also. Hit the key and it started fairly quick, running very rough for awhile as it did when i first bled the system when installing the pump. After it smoothed out it would not idle, so i turned the idle screw to bring the idle up to normal rpms (the idle screw and lock nut were tight) and its been ok for a few days now. I had a quarter tank of gas, so i know it wasnt out of fuel. After i got it running again i even checked the timing to be sure everything was ok, it was, .040. Im lost as to why it would do this and especially why i would have to all of of sudden turn the idle screw up for it to even run? Im very new to these cars and still learning but this just dosent make sense to me, any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[burn_your_money]

Where did you get the pump from? That's rather suspicious that you had to adjust all the settings on a "rebuilt" pump.

It sounds like air is able to get into the fuel system somewhere and is allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank. If we assume that your rebuilt pump is ok, then the next most likely suspect would be the soft return lines between the injectors.

If the pump has air in it that will effect the way it runs which is possibly why you had to turn up the idle screw.

Try using some clear line for the feed and return and run it out of a bucket of clean diesel fuel. Look for any air bubbles, and even shut it off and let it sit for at least an hour and then check for air again.

[92-Eco]

I purchased the pump from Pete Rothenbacher of dieselvw.com/emiata.com. I will check/replace the return lines, they probably need it anyhow. I have driven the car almost a hundred miles since i had to turn the idle up and it has never increased or decreased and its ran fine. i will try to find some clear line and do as you suggest, thanks.

[arb]

Where did you get the pump from? That's rather suspicious that you had to adjust all the settings on a "rebuilt" pump.

It sounds like air is able to get into the fuel system somewhere and is allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank. If we assume that your rebuilt pump is ok, then the next most likely suspect would be the soft return lines between the injectors.

If the pump has air in it that will effect the way it runs which is possibly why you had to turn up the idle screw.

Try using some clear line for the feed and return and run it out of a bucket of clean diesel fuel. Look for any air bubbles, and even shut it off and let it sit for at least an hour and then check for air again.

Ditto that 100%

[Rabbit on Roids]

Prothe pumps are a no-no. good luck getting much use out of it. we have heard nothing but horror stories about his pumps.

[zukgod1]

Where are you located 92-eco?

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

I bought some stuff from prothe (from a referral) when I didn't know any better. After the purchase I read more and more about his stuff and the poor quality and some of it became true. V-blets that does not look right and feels wrong. Trunk lock and fuel cap locks that has different keys but work in each other. Headlight switch that will not allow the headlights and parking lights to be on at the same time. The switch was only 6 bucks but what really bothered me was when I called him up (some woman answered) and when I explained the problem with the switch she said "the switch turn the headlights on and therefore it works. If you want to return it, you have to pay return postage and there will be a 15% restocking fee"

I also bought a timing belt tensioner from him but after my bad experience with the other parts I never put it in and bought a SKF instead. I will never buy anything else from him again. Not worth it.

[92-Eco]

wow, this dosent sound good. i will try the few things that were recommended before i get to discouraged though. And i am located in southeastern Indiana, the rising sun area, thanks for the help so far

[92-Eco]

I just went to check/replace my return lines. They all seemed to be ok except #2 injector, the hose pulled off fairly easy along with the nipple out the injector, so now its loose and leaking fuel of course. I have 4 complete injectors and 4 "new" cores. So i guess i can just swap out the top piece from one of my spares. I guess that being loose would allow air into the sytem but i dont see how it could have been sucking in air but not leaking any fuel?

[burn_your_money]

Suction leaks are fun like that.

Swapping tops is a bad idea. It's best to keep injector pieces all together. They have been torque together for years and mixing pieces is a good recipe for a leak.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Actually, you are a lucky son of a gun.
You are the first person i have ever seen to publicly say that they received an Injection Pump from Prothe that allowed their car to run in a decent manner.

Granted, i have not read everything in the world either.

One other guy has sort of said that, but it was his second pump after returning the first pump - in person.

They are supposed to be run-testing each pump on an engine now before packaging and shipping. So maybe that is true and the reason you have been as fortunate so far.

It will take years of selling acceptable Inj Pumps to turn his on-line reputation around amongst enthusiasts.

x2 on Burns injector advice.

[jtanguay]

I just went to check/replace my return lines. They all seemed to be ok except #2 injector, the hose pulled off fairly easy along with the nipple out the injector, so now its loose and leaking fuel of course. I have 4 complete injectors and 4 "new" cores. So i guess i can just swap out the top piece from one of my spares. I guess that being loose would allow air into the sytem but i dont see how it could have been sucking in air but not leaking any fuel?

i've had some weird runnings with my engine.  turned out to be leaking return lines.  they're only meant to seal once, and not twice.  so i install mine with extra length in case they start to leak, then you yank them off, cut the old, and re-attach.

very weird that the pump runs okay for more than a week, and randomly starts to give you problems. are there many bubbles in your fuel lines when the engine is running? i'm glad to hear that his pumps are working. when money is tight, its hard to justify paying a lot of money for a leak.  i hope in your case that this is the last fuel related issue you have for a while.  testing a pump on a car is one of the best ways to calibrate a pump and to make sure it drives properly, but not all cars are the same.  some have a/c, p/s, big alternators, and others don't. little adjustments to the idle is just normal practice IMO.

how is the car running now? anymore 'hiccups' ?