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#30
by
theman53
on 14 Sep, 2009 08:20
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In his first page he tells us what he has done. I think he has replaced everything but the gauge. I would check the gauge and see if the 2 oil squirters that you didn't replace are functioning correctly if you haven't done so already.
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#31
by
turbosuzi
on 14 Sep, 2009 10:29
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I think today after work I will remove the pan again, valve cover, spin the oil pump w/drill and see where the most oil is leaking from. has anyone done this before and seen where an oil leak was and was able to repair it? I am worried that there might be a crack in the block some where.
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#32
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 14 Sep, 2009 11:09
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you know, i totally forgot about that posibility. a cracked block would put a halt to things.
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#33
by
turbosuzi
on 14 Sep, 2009 12:42
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Should I do this when it hot because I get ~26PSI when cold.
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#34
by
turbosuzi
on 14 Sep, 2009 16:18
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Thats exactly what I was afraid of. Thanks Libbybapa and Rabit on Roids you bothe have been a great help. Hopefully we will get to the bottom of this soon.
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#35
by
turbosuzi
on 16 Sep, 2009 15:34
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Well I took off the oil pan and used a cntainer of oil am my wife spun the oil pump with a drill and I am not sure what I am looking for but the front main bearing starts to leak oil first then the rear then rain from all over. Any ideas on where to look and how much is too much? I will probably try my brothers in the same fashion he has good oil pressure, and see what the difference is.
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#36
by
rodpaslow
on 16 Sep, 2009 17:00
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I had rebuilt a diesel about 10 years ago on an engine with 300K or so on it. I forgot to seal the oil squirters a got relatively the same oil pressure you are getting. Because it was a turbo diesel, it would start and have much higher pressure cold (about 60 or so) and only 1-2 warm. The dynamic pressure warning and buzzer would come on if you tried to drive it.
I pulled the pan and so much oil comes out of everywhere it's hard to tell anything.
You can plug the oil going to the head - by pulling the bolt that supplies it and see if that changes anything.
My result was I had to remove the oil squirters and properly seal them. Then I got roughly 7-10 psi at idle and 40-50 psi highway driving.
That's my 2 cents...
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#37
by
rallydiesel
on 16 Sep, 2009 17:19
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What do you mean by sealing them? There are no washers or anything to replace. You used some kind of goo?
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#38
by
Vincent Waldon
on 16 Sep, 2009 20:45
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The Bentley says that they should be sealed with a specific VW goo... most of us just use a Permatex variant.
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#39
by
theman53
on 16 Sep, 2009 22:11
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Do tell... I don't have mine together yet and may need to put some goo on it since I didn't yet. How important is this goo...I have all the piston's in
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#40
by
turbosuzi
on 16 Sep, 2009 22:21
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Is this the regular RTV type sealant or an epoxy based product?
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#41
by
Vincent Waldon
on 16 Sep, 2009 22:25
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From the Bentley:
Oil Spray Nozzles
Turbo diesel and 16-valve gasoline engines are equipped with oil spray nozzles which, above a certain oil pressure threshold, spray oil from the main oil galley against the bottoms of the pistons for added cooling.
Install these nozzles with sealing paste, Volkswagen part no. AMV 188 100 02, and torque the bolts to 10 Nm (87 in. lb.). I use Permatex Ultra Copper as a sub... but Blue or Black would probably work as well... just happen to have lots of Ultra Copper.
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#42
by
macka
on 16 Sep, 2009 22:26
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Permatex red is my poison of choice.
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#43
by
turbosuzi
on 18 Sep, 2009 12:10
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How long after I seal the oil jets can I run it? I dont want the oil pressure to just push out the sealer.