I think I have a bad head gasket. (Opinions needed!)

[GIDDY_UP_GO]

Ok, my lil 86 Golf just got outta the shop. Put over $1000 into it. (New axles, adjusted the valves, got the A/C working, new parking brake cables, and a few other odds and ends)

After about a week of driving it around, I noticed that he coolant level in the resevoir was low.....no biggie, I added a couple quarts of coolant. Well, about a week later, same thing, the coolant was a couple quarts low. I looked under car and no visible leaks from any of the hoses (Which have all been replaced within the last year) But I did notice a small puddle of coolant on the ground, directly under where the axles are located.

So, I pull the car up onto a set of ramps, and grab a flashlight, sure enough, the rear of the block (next to the firewall and directly below the exhaust manifold) the engine looks wet and it appears to be coming from between the head and the block. It is at the corner of the block that is closest to the brake master cylinder.

Ok, here is my question. Is it safe to drive it like this and continue to add coolant?

There appears to be no coolant in the oil, and no oil in the coolant resevoir.

I will most likely try and baby it until winter, when I drive the Jeep.

When I do take it to the shop for repairs, what do you reccomend that I have done to the engine while the head gasket is replaced? (The car has 205,000 mi. on it.)

I value all your opinions! So feel free to say what you feel!

Thanks!

[smutts]

My first engine gasket blew 170,000 miles, 2nd engine gasket blew 182,000 miles. If that 205,000 is the original gasket, then it is due to die of old age. Head gaskets are a wear item sadly. Oddly though with VW's they often leak coolant at 15 psi from either end of the block first, why not the 1000 or so psi of the cylinders first? No idea.
So either new gasket now, or dump a bottle of rad-seal and keep your fingers crossed. BUT, when the rad-seal gives up in the next month or thirteen, it will be a BIG leak, liable to leave you stranded. Guess how I know this .
Good luck.

PS if it's a N.A. then it isn't too bad a diy job. If it is a turbo, then, bit of a pain, but the info needed should lurk on this site, somewhere.

[GIDDY_UP_GO]

Well, the engine is a 1.6 N/A.

I am not a mechanic by no means, so it will definately be going back to my VW mechanic. Since it is a N/A should I even bother putting the ARP studs in it?

What other items should I have looked at/replaced while head is off?

I know this would probably be a good time to install a turbo (But not enuf funds to do that now!)

Should I do anything with the head while it is off?

[theman53]

I guess it ends up on how much do you want to spend? 
If you are ever going to turbo it or if you do another head gasket then now would be perfect to put in studs...at 130.00   But you should never have to replace the studs once you do have them. I think it is safe to drive for now just don't over heat it. When it does overheat or go into the shop I would have the head rebuilt and possibly peen the precups in for safe keeping. If you want have them put stainless in and port and polish it so when you do the turbo it will be even more fun. If it is a mechanical head have the valves adjusted if you aren't replacing the old. If it is a hydro head use the MLS headgasket, if it is mechanical head decide if you want to use the MLS or the fiber. Replace all the glowplugs while they are easy to get to. Since it is down and there you could have them take the pan off check all of the rod and main bearings and oil pump gears, maybe even look at the cylinder bores for wear.

You could make the couple hundred dollar head gasket*with labor* into the 4,000.00 headgasket and more job.

[GIDDY_UP_GO]

Well, believe me you, if it wasn't for the old lady I would have all kinds of stuff done while it was in the shop. Including a turbo and Giles pump, yada, yada, yada. But I think I will just do the basics for now. I will take your advice and have the mechanic rebuild the head and peen the precups.

I intend on driving it until the winter time. I will be checking the coolant and oil daily, as well as trying the stop leak in the coolant.

Any reccomendations on which brand of stop leak to use? My father in law told me to make sure I go with the powder version.

[jettabrendan]

No stop leak, re tourque your head bolts, worked for 2 of my jettas..

[Rabbit TD]

No stop leak, re tourque your head bolts, worked for 2 of my jettas..

Yes I agree about retorquing when you get the first sign of a leak.  I've seen it fix other types of engies as well.  The number one thing to do though is get a set of studs in there while you have it apart.  You never have to buy another head bolt and they hold lot's better and torque a whole lot smoother and most of all they go in the block alot deeper to help eliminate block cracking.

[GIDDY_UP_GO]

Thanks for the advice on the retorqing the head. (Now how come my VW mechanic didn't say anything about that when I asked his opinion?) Im a lil suspicious, cuz like I stated in a previous post above.....I just dropped $1000 into this thing 3 weeks ago, and one of the things the mechanic did was remove the valve cover and adjust the valves. You think he coulda loosend one of my head bolts....? :mad:

He did tell me to not add the stop leak, he stated that it would ruin my new heater core I just had installed last year. (Good thing I asked about that, huh!)

On the bright side, he said that I can continue running it as long as I check the coolant religiously. He also stated that he seen one leaking like mine run almost 5 years before it needed replaced!

[jettabrendan]

Keep in mind that they are stretch bolts and need to be re tourqued after a heat cycle, for new bolts though. It is a good idea to get studs.. But I am wondering.. Can you replace a bolt with a stud without removing the head? Like take a bolt out and replace it with a stud?

[smutts]

Can you replace a bolt with a stud without removing the head? Like take a bolt out and replace it with a stud?

I have never been brave enough to try, but it would be cool to hear who tried it and got away with it.

[jettabrendan]

i would try it, but I would want to drain the coolant and oil first, just in case some leaks on the gasket surface when the bolt is taken out. I think that it will work because you are only taking out 1 bolt at a time, The rest are still tight and the gasket is still compressed. I could be wrong tho but I think it would be fine.

[camboscams]

Just a quick note on changing HB with studs one at a time....

I replaced my headbolts with ARP's in the torque pattern and ive got over 4000miles on it, so far so good!

[jettabrendan]

I'm gunna do it then.

[Rabbit TD]

Keep in mind that they are stretch bolts and need to be re tourqued after a heat cycle, for new bolts though. It is a good idea to get studs.. But I am wondering.. Can you replace a bolt with a stud without removing the head? Like take a bolt out and replace it with a stud?

Yes, that's how most of them are done if not put in during a rebuild,  just use the torque sequence illustration and pull one out, put in a stud and torque it to 80 lbs using their moly lube and go to the next one.

[GIDDY_UP_GO]

No stop leak, re tourque your head bolts, worked for 2 of my jettas..

Kudo's to you kind sir! For my VW mechanic retorqued the head bolts and the minor leak has stopped for the time being!

Once again this website has save my azz!

Hopefully I can run this thing until I can get my turbo setup going and then I will have the head gasket replaced and the ARP studs and so on and so forth.