cracked block or head?

[Possum79]

So I just got done changing out the head gasket on my 1.5l due to the fact it overheated and I started having pressurized coolant and loosing coolant. Also it was smoking white out the tail pipe. I got it all put back together and started her up to let her warm up for retorque of the head bolts. Right about when it got warm I heard a slight pop or cough and then she started to studder and started to smoke again. I retorqued and drove it and it smokes like a steam pipe and has no power. It smells of diesel and I notice one the injectors is leaking now. My pump is starting to leak so i figure i will pull the injectors and check stuff out. I get the #2 injector out in my compression test. It shows like 320psi. I move to the next cylinder leaving the injector out and it spews coolant everywhere. I mean alot of coolant. the rest of the cylinders all tested above 400 psi. Do you think I just blew the gasket again or do you think the block or head just cracked on me. I didnt take either to a machine shop due to funds. I just checked it out the best I could myself. She ran fine till she coughed then it all went to hell like it was before I started this crap.

 

[jtanguay]

www.steelseal.com

[maxfax]

Did you use head bolts or studs???   Usually with close visual inspection you can see cracks in the block, generally around the head bolt holes..  If you have a good straight edge and a set of feeler gauges you can roughly check the head for warpage..

[Possum79]

I used new bolts after I cleaned the block holes with tap and brake cleaner. They went in real smooth. Didnt feel like it had any problems. After it ran for like 5 minutes it just coughed then started acting badly again. Could it be just a blow gasket again? The one I ordered had a slight bend in the metal around the cylinder on one part. I wasnt sure if I should send it back and my dad said use it. Im thinking it may possibly have blown. One more thing, with no injector in it spit like crazy out of the hole. could a blow gasket let that much coolant in? it sprayed like 5 feet of mist.

edit. Forgot to metion the whole time it ran like crap it was in the middle of the temp gauge which it wasnt doing before I took it apart. It was over 3/4 on the temp gauge before i replaced the gasket.

[maxfax]

It's possible it could just be the gasket..  It doesn;t take a whole lot of water in the cylinder to make one heck of a lawn sprinkler out of it..    At least it sounds like you know which cylinder to check out.. Inspect your block around the head bolt holes, and the cylinder wall.. 

Look over the head for visual cracks (except between the valves as long as it's no wider than the thickness of a dime, that's okay)..  If the gasket is okay, no cracks noticable in the block, and nothing visable on the head, you should probably have it pressure tested...

And I know you mentioned funds are tight, but throw those head bolts away and get head studs..   Those bolts are the reason for alot of cracked blocks and blown gaskets..  Your block may not be cracked now, most of the time they crack when your torque the head on..   Do a search on the subject, you'll understand.. Studs are usually cheaper than hunting for and replacing the block..

[Rabbit TD]

It's possible it could just be the gasket..  It doesn;t take a whole lot of water in the cylinder to make one heck of a lawn sprinkler out of it..    At least it sounds like you know which cylinder to check out.. Inspect your block around the head bolt holes, and the cylinder wall.. 

Look over the head for visual cracks (except between the valves as long as it's no wider than the thickness of a dime, that's okay)..  If the gasket is okay, no cracks noticable in the block, and nothing visable on the head, you should probably have it pressure tested...

And I know you mentioned funds are tight, but throw those head bolts away and get head studs..   Those bolts are the reason for alot of cracked blocks and blown gaskets..  Your block may not be cracked now, most of the time they crack when your torque the head on..   Do a search on the subject, you'll understand.. Studs are usually cheaper than hunting for and replacing the block..

Yes definately cheaper than a block, not to mention the reboring with new pistons that it probably also would need and have the same thing happen again without the studs.

[Possum79]

So my dad agreed to use his driveway for more time my car has been there for almost 2 months. I'm thinking about pulling the motor and getting it all checked out. I still see crosshatching from when it was rebuilt the first time. I think it's time for me to start a build thread yay!

I live in an appartment with my beautiful wife her niece (1 year old, parents in Iraq) and my sister so my space for car parts is limited

[Doug]

Did you install the gasket dry as in no sealant applied? Modern gaskets are designed to be installed dry on clean mating surfaces. I am thinking that a gasket replacement is all you need to do. I wouldn't bother with changing the bolts either. This is assuming that a close inspection reveals no thread boss damage. When you fill the engine after a new clean gasket is installed, use only water to start. The higher surface tension of pure water will not penetrate a gasket seal as easily as a mix of glycol and water. It will give the new gasket a chance to bond to the engine surfaces.

[Rabbit TD]

Did you install the gasket dry as in no sealant applied? Modern gaskets are designed to be installed dry on clean mating surfaces. I am thinking that a gasket replacement is all you need to do. I wouldn't bother with changing the bolts either. This is assuming that a close inspection reveals no thread boss damage. When you fill the engine after a new clean gasket is installed, use only water to start. The higher surface tension of pure water will not penetrate a gasket seal as easily as a mix of glycol and water. It will give the new gasket a chance to bond to the engine surfaces.

That's something I always wondered about too, weather to use a sealant on a head gasket or not.  All the gaskets say"Use no sealer" but then lots of places recomend things like Hylomar, Copper Permatex and things like that.  I have used both before, no Hylomar on the sealing rings though and never had any problems.  Between the 2 though I like the Permatex copper spray the best.  But I also had the head surfaced too which I know helped.  Studs are better than all of it put together though.

[maxfax]

Studs are the key!!!    Generally I use a bit of sealer (usually hylomar) around the oil pressure port but let the rest dry..  Probably that much isn't really necessary with a good head and block, but I've had enough fun flushing oil from the radiator.. 

[myke_w]

Usually with close visual inspection you can see cracks in the block, generally around the head bolt holes.. 

This was the big problem with 1.5's and 1.6's with 11mm studs, they crack the bolt bosses in the block, it's the very reason they changed to the new 12mm style.  I second a double check for cracks.

[Possum79]

I installed it dry and am in the process of pulling to motor and getting it all checked out. I can at least get the block and head checked over and install some rings and stuff myself. If not Ill go to pick n pull and see what they got. I really dont want to get rid of my rusty rabbit although its pretty far gone.

[bigblockchev]

You can have a leaking head above the gasket surface like in the intake or exhaust ports. Happened to me , melted right through though the head looked fine on the gasket surface. Pull the head and check it. You can test the valve passages by standing the head on it's side and filling the ports with water or solvent. If the levels go down then there is a  leak. this is not foolproof , if you really want to avoid wasting money on head gaskets get the head checked by a machine shop. Block is not so easy to check , must pull apart and really look for cracks. If you are getting that much coolant out the injector hole it should be a easy find. Good luck Dan