Can you explain Rallydiesel's point about the gauge measuring exhaust manifold pressure?
Guy
If you have both an intake pressure (boost) and exhaust manifold pressure (EMP) gauge, you can see if your turbocharger is well matched to your engine. If you have high EMP and lower boost, then you don't want to increase your boost much more or you will blow a headgasket. You may want to switch to turbo with a larger turbine side so it's less restrictive. You would loose power in this scenario if you increased boost and your turbo would start surging.
This is where compound turbos become very effective. Using two turbos instead of one, it is possible to keep exhaust pressures lower in comparison to running one turbo for the same amount of boost.
Can you explain Rallydiesel's point about the gauge measuring exhaust manifold pressure?
Guy
If you have both an intake pressure (boost) and exhaust manifold pressure (EMP) gauge, you can see if your turbocharger is well matched to your engine. If you have high EMP and lower boost, then you don't want to increase your boost much more or you will blow a headgasket. You may want to switch to turbo with a larger turbine side so it's less restrictive. You would loose power in this scenario if you increased boost and your turbo would start surging.
So would keeping exhaust manifold pressure below intake manifold pressure the ideal situation? This would indicate a positive flow of gas through the engine and out the exhaust?
Who has such a set up?
Connecting a gauge to the exhaust manifold is going to require metal fittings and pipe, stainless steel? I would be interested to know how you did it,
Guy
So would keeping exhaust manifold pressure below intake manifold pressure the ideal situation? This would indicate a positive flow of gas through the engine and out the exhaust?
Who has such a set up?
Yes. My emp:s reached near boost around 5500rpm and 220hp. (gt2359v @ 2,0bar)
Too much boost is bad thing, disconnecting wastegate is no way to make power. I´ve dynoed (and others too) ~100whp at stock boost (stock T3/K24)
Can you explain Rallydiesel's point about the gauge measuring exhaust manifold pressure?
Guy
If you have both an intake pressure (boost) and exhaust manifold pressure (EMP) gauge, you can see if your turbocharger is well matched to your engine. If you have high EMP and lower boost, then you don't want to increase your boost much more or you will blow a headgasket. You may want to switch to turbo with a larger turbine side so it's less restrictive. You would loose power in this scenario if you increased boost and your turbo would start surging.
So would keeping exhaust manifold pressure below intake manifold pressure the ideal situation? This would indicate a positive flow of gas through the engine and out the exhaust?
Who has such a set up?
Connecting a gauge to the exhaust manifold is going to require metal fittings and pipe, stainless steel? I would be interested to know how you did it,
Guy
here is my Turbine inlet pressure gauge set-up....ideally you want 1:1 ratio.
installed with soot filter...
What does your soot filter consist of?
really course SS wool..or "brilo" brand wool..
So how do ECO engines, with no fuel compensation for their boost, improve mileage?
They don't. The ECO diesels are ECOlogical not ECOnomical. The purpose to the ECO was to reduce emissions not to reduce fuel consumption. A properly tuned LDA will yield better fuel economy than an ECO pump especially if similar acceleration rates are used. Emissions will be greater, tho.
Andrew, any tips on tuning the Eco diesels to reduce fuel consumption? Thanks.
one way is ceramic coating....my daily 1.9td vento use less than 4 litres/100km.Fully ceramic coated motor,and power is also good,about 180-190hv..
one way is ceramic coating....my daily 1.9td vento use less than 4 litres/100km.Fully ceramic coated motor,and power is also good,about 180-190hv..
It's awesome what you've done! Could you explain how the ceramic coating produce more power and economy?
one way is ceramic coating....my daily 1.9td vento use less than 4 litres/100km.Fully ceramic coated motor,and power is also good,about 180-190hv..
It's awesome what you've done! Could you explain how the ceramic coating produce more power and economy?
Usually by keeping your heat energy where you want it: in your working fluid.
Heat migration across the cylinder walls, piston tops and head surfaces is useless; it produces no useful work once the engine is fully warmed.
Turbinpowered, that makes sense theoretically. On a practical level, how well does ceramic coating work? Who else has done it to their VW's? Is it something you can DIY or do you have to send out? How long does the coating last? Can the ceramic come off and score the polished surfaces up?
Turbinpowered, that makes sense theoretically. On a practical level, how well does ceramic coating work? Who else has done it to their VW's? Is it something you can DIY or do you have to send out? How long does the coating last? Can the ceramic come off and score the polished surfaces up?
Can't answer your practical questions, you just asked how it was supposed to help. :p