Rebuild: Advice Please - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Rebuild: Advice Please by DieselSteed on 24 Jun, 2009 18:54
• The temp gauge was not working, and my wife overheated my AAZ with 111k miles. Not her fault, mine. I should have used more gauges to keep an eye on things. I removed the head and it is warped, so I bought a new one. But since I am into it about $700 just for a head, I decided to go “balls to the wall”. I ask Giles to build me a pump for an engine (not a motor right Dr. D?) that will run up to 30 pounds of boost. I bought new rings even though it does not look too bad inside. The cylinder walls still have visible cross-hatches, and I can clearly see the arrow on the pistons. The main bearings have pit marks so they have to be replaced (though after doing a search, I still don’t understand way I should order two sets), con rod bearings too, just in case. The crank looks and measures good. I am throwing money at this project, because I want it to be right. So I need your advice. Advice I cant find in any Bentley. What should I use to put things back together? I have ARP head studs from another engine (I could use torque values please). What else do you think I should use to handle 30 pounds? Thanks in advance :beer:
• #1 by Smokey Eddy on 24 Jun, 2009 23:46
• i've heard of people wanting arp bolts for the oil pump. that might be another place for an upgrade. You seem to have your bases covered.
  
  porting the head and manifolds will help with those boost pressures. You seem to have an understanding already though!
  i'd buy at least 1 extra ring set unless you've already changed the rings. I broke 2 rings (of the same kind) so i had to get 2 extra sets in the end. You're probably better at it than me though
• #2 by theman53 on 25 Jun, 2009 05:51
• Definately port what you can. If you really want to go all out send your head to Air Cooled Engines Plus in Ohio. The guy is amazing and it was only 600.00 shipped both ways for me for a complete port and polish and head rebuild. I think if you don't get the mains that Myke W has here then he says to get 2 sets for the full oiling of main #4 and better to the head. You don't have to do this as vw didn't, but definately don't use the intergrated thrust washer for the mains. Some here have had the crank eaten as a result of using those.
• #3 by lord_verminaard on 25 Jun, 2009 06:35
• Sounds like you have most of the bases covered.  Check out the build thread for my Wife's car, as I'm pretty much doing the same thing- the link is in my signature. 
  
  On the bearings, order them from Myke_w on here.  He sends you the right stuff.    The correct bearing for #4 main, and the non-integrated #3 bearing.  I re-used the thrust washers on my Wife's car, and the crank endplay was dead-on.  If you have to adjust the thrust washers, it's a pain in the ass but still better than the integrated ones.
  
  I had no trouble with the rings, they dropped right on and slid in with no problems.  The only problem I had were those *&@# piston pin circlips.
  
  Brendan
• #4 by jtanguay on 25 Jun, 2009 11:50
• look into getting some total seal rings.  i like mine!  no blowby    plus get their quickseat dry lube.  it helps break in the rings much quicker.   if you have the crank out, get it polished.  it'll help keep the bearings fresh for as long as possible.  you might still want to look into doing a light hone as well.
  
  ARP hardware like rod & main studs would be a good idea too.  the torque values are 80 ft/lbs with moly lube, and 100 ft/lbs for 10w30 non synthetic oil.  BUT when using the MLS gasket it needs to 'crush'.  sometimes it takes more than those torque values to actually crush the gasket.
• #5 by zukgod1 on 25 Jun, 2009 13:03
• I will second the Total Seal rings comment.
  
  ARP Fasteners on the head, Rods, Mains and oil pump.
  
  At least port match things and get a front mount intercooler.
  
  Next step; Have fun!!!
• #6 by jtanguay on 25 Jun, 2009 13:48
• why do people use arp for the oil pump? is it to clamp it for a real good seal?
• #7 by monomer on 25 Jun, 2009 14:32
• Anyone got the part numbers for the ARP oil bolts?
  
  
  I have the rest of the arp kit, didnt think of the oil pump.
  
  
  
  Just get the gapless ring from toal seal. I ordered the full set and the Stock top ring is nicer, and the oil rings are EXACTLY the same. Waste of money. Top ring didnt have any beveled edges, was really rough; where the stock kolbenschmit ring was beveled, and chrome.
• #8 by docadillac on 25 Jun, 2009 14:55
• Sorry to hear about the head of your engine. I like the ARP bolts and /or studs. What about thermal coatings for the pistons as well? I am going to help my buddy put an intercooler on his Jetta, aircooled front mount as a water cooled one shouldn't be necessary for that horsepower range I don't think. Resize the rods or maybe go to billet rods for the crank for a little extra insurance. If you can see a crosshatch pattern still in the cylinder walls maybe you won't have to hone them. The rings should seat ok as is I believe. Do you think any other machine work would be a good idea like decking the block or align boring the block at the crank? Hopefully the bearing clearances are all ok on the rods and mains. Good luck with your build.
• #9 by theman53 on 25 Jun, 2009 15:25
• Arp part numbers are in the FAQ under ARP Part numbers I believe. They have them all.
• #10 by jtanguay on 25 Jun, 2009 16:55
• Quote from: docadillac on 25 Jun, 2009 14:55

  Sorry to hear about the head of your engine. I like the ARP bolts and /or studs. What about thermal coatings for the pistons as well? I am going to help my buddy put an intercooler on his Jetta, aircooled front mount as a water cooled one shouldn't be necessary for that horsepower range I don't think. Resize the rods or maybe go to billet rods for the crank for a little extra insurance. If you can see a crosshatch pattern still in the cylinder walls maybe you won't have to hone them. The rings should seat ok as is I believe. Do you think any other machine work would be a good idea like decking the block or align boring the block at the crank? Hopefully the bearing clearances are all ok on the rods and mains. Good luck with your build.
  

  
  good point on the coatings.  so far i think aki has had great results with them.  i never found out if his swirl-chambers were coated though... keeping as much heat in the combustion chamber as possible will not only lessen the chance of burnt pistons, but will also decrease turbo lag, and increase engine efficiency.  not a bad idea while everything's apart.
  
  edit: i also have a hunch that the thermal coatings may help with cold starting...  which would hit the nail on the head (literally?) for anyone wishing to build a franken engine 1.6 with a 1.9 head 
• #11 by docadillac on 26 Jun, 2009 09:52
• If the compression ratio is lowered by using the 1.9 head could this not be addressed by milling the head or decking the block or can this be done by using a one notch gasket if that would make a difference?
• #12 by DieselSteed on 09 Jul, 2009 18:47
• Thats what I mean. You guys are awesome. Unfortunately I got layoff of my job of 10 years. So my project got delayed. The good news is that I received an offer for a job today so all systems are go!!! This is the second time I saved up enough for a Giles superpump, but something always happens that dissolves my funds (not this time though, I have enough squirreled away that the wife don’t know about hehe). So I am at least 4 weeks from starting up again. I just wanted to tell you volks thanks. I hope y’all don’t mind if I PM ya as the project progresses….