Help with head removal

[boji55]

Hello I have been reading this forum for over 6 months but not really written any thing in it.
I have started taking the head off my AAZ everything good till now. I cant figure out how to take off  the cam off the head when the engine is in the bay there is some type of a metal plate that is on the left side i have a service book on this engine but its in russan and its not helping me that much . I haven't put a pump lock and a cam lock will that be a problem i have marked were they were exactly were at.

[arb]

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Have you removed the cam bearing caps and the timing belt from the Cam sprocket? It should lift off the head at that point with the cam sprocket still on.

[boji55]

Its not my picture i got it off the forum, but its that metal plate that the cover for the belt holds on to thats causing my troubles  do i have to remove that too

[the caveman]

You will have to knock loose the cam gear. take the valve cover off, get some steel flat plate to fit at the other end of the cam, remove the cam gear bolt. Then from the engine side of the plate you will see a hole. Use a hammer and punch to hit the rear side of the gear. remove it and then you'll be able to remove the head or cam. For the pump gear, use a deep 13 mm socket to lock it when you are ready.

[boji55]

Thanks i got that but i have a bigger problem now, i just remembered that i forgot to put the flywheel at TDC but marked the belt and crank and pump were exactly were it was with white chalk can i put it pack together as it was  and put it at TDC and will this make  some type of a problem sorry about my novice questions but i have never taken apart an engine before, after i put the head back together after i give it to the machine shop, should i give the car to a Bosch shop that has one of those pump dials to set my advance because my head will be about 3/8 of a MM shorter than before. Thanks

[rabbitman]

You'll need to completely re-time it.

When you get the head off turn the crank to TDC for when the head goes back on.

[Smokey Eddy]

augh! my old head! Make it go away!

[boji55]

OK so let me get this right take off the head as is then put the engine in TDC after that don't put in the cam when i bolt on the head once the head is bolted down put the cam in TDC I think its when the #1 cylinder is closed both cam lobes are in the air please correct me if i am wrong. then the pump is there a way to put it in TDC , were exactly i have to put the 13mm socket ( in wich hole of the gear there are 2 holes that are perfect for a deep 13mm deep socket. thanks  (dam Boost too much without intercooler)

[arb]

OK so let me get this right take off the head as is then put the engine in TDC after that don't put in the cam when i bolt on the head once the head is bolted down put the cam in TDC I think its when the #1 cylinder is closed both cam lobes are in the air please correct me if i am wrong. then the pump is there a way to put it in TDC , were exactly i have to put the 13mm socket ( in wich hole of the gear there are 2 holes that are perfect for a deep 13mm deep socket. thanks  (dam Boost too much without intercooler)

Sounds like you got it. To be crystal clear - #1 is the piston away from the flywheel. You'll verify TDC with a dial-indicator (some have had their TDC mark off location and had to remark it) - you'll want to use a dial-indicator to measure piston protrusion for the proper head gasket. Another thing about the cam - Yes the #1 lobes will be pointing up and the injection pump locating pin on the front of the engine will line up with the hole in the IP mounting bracket - plus, the cam locking plate will only fit snug in the groove at the end of the cam when its at #1 TDC - if you have it 180 out, the locking plate will still go into the slot, but it will allow the cam to turn quite a bit.

[burn_your_money]

Make sure you loosen the bolts that hold the cam down in the proper order. It's easy to snap your cam.

Take the nut that holds the pump pulley on and you should be able to see where the key is. The pump is locked in the proper position if the key is in the 10-12 o'clock position.

There are 2 10mm bolts that hold that cover you were having problems with to the head. They need to be removed. So does the tensioner and oil return line

[burn_your_money]

Just to clarify, those two bolts are m6 which typically has a 10mm head, but in this case is usually a 5mm allen head.

All 4 of my AAZ engines are 10mm. My 1.6 is an allen though.

[burn_your_money]

It's a rather mute point anyways

[boji55]

Now that the head is removed  there are little cracks in between the valves i think it might be craked but just in case i gave it to be x-rayed or something like that I don't know what's called, and pressure tested i will have the results Tuesday hopefuly it is not cracked cuz a new head is 180 bucks, and to grind the head with the picture and the pressure test is only 20 bucks, dose any one know whats a good way to clean the turbo is has a lot of deposit on it its a Garett T2.

[burn_your_money]

$180 for a new head? Do tell.

Cracks between the valves are 100% normal. If it passes the pressure test I wouldn't worry about them.

[boji55]

Well I am in Bulgaria and its kind of the junk yard  ( most of the cars from Germany and mostly Italy come here) of Europe I have about 30 junk yards in a radius of 10 miles from my house there is a lot of competition and the junk yards keep the price low a golf like mike in Italy is about 500 euros and 100 for transport to Bulgaria when they part it out its not that expensive but also the avarage salary over here is 300 euros but the good thing, well not so good it depends how you look at it is that we have no emission regulations you can drive with a side pipe and no one will tell you anything.  sorry the head is not new. its on 150,000km