Installing studs without removing head

[wil892]

I replaced the head, headgasket and injectors on my GTD about two months ago. I used new FEBI stretch bolts but now I'm looking to buy studs as I may start to tamper with boost and fuel.

I really don't want to have to remove the head again and I have read on here it is possible to just replace the stretch bolts with studs. Firstly are there any implications to doing this? And also does anyone have the exact procedure instructions to do this?

Thanks
Will

[theman53]

I would say once the head gastket is crushed it is hard to be reused. I say hard as usually somebody has probably done it and worked fine. I wouldn't try to reuse it as they often fail on there own. But if time is your friend and you don't mind doing a job 2 times go for it and tell us how it works. As for procedure I would say that you are on your own, but you should use the bentley removal and install torque procedure at least.

[RabbitJockey]

i think you can do it one bolt at a time or something i've seen talk about it on here

[jtanguay]

the procedure for switching to studs is to replace them one at a time IN SEQUENCE.  but i'm sure people have done it without going in sequence with no problems, but better be safe.

[wil892]

ok, thanks for the responces. Seems a lot of people are worried about the gasket not sealing and head warpage. I haven't re-torqued the bolts yet and they have done over 1000miles, there is no sign of leakage though.

I would definately replace them in sequence, would this be reverse to tightening or the normal tightening sequence?
jtanguay you said this is a real procedure so I'm guessing its been done before. To my mind I was thinking of starting at number ten, taking it out then installing the stud and torqueing it to a specific number, then repeating this for all the bolts in sequence. Then when they are all installed torque them again in the normal sequence to the final torque.

[jtanguay]

ok, thanks for the responces. Seems a lot of people are worried about the gasket not sealing and head warpage. I haven't re-torqued the bolts yet and they have done over 1000miles, there is no sign of leakage though.

I would definately replace them in sequence, would this be reverse to tightening or the normal tightening sequence?
jtanguay you said this is a real procedure so I'm guessing its been done before. To my mind I was thinking of starting at number ten, taking it out then installing the stud and torqueing it to a specific number, then repeating this for all the bolts in sequence. Then when they are all installed torque them again in the normal sequence to the final torque.

follow the sequence of removal.  i've removed my TDI head bolts out of sequence and it didn't warp at all.  the machine shop said it was dead on and skimmed it just to clean it up. the IDI head is a little different though as it has the swirl chambers.  had i known about having to remove them in sequence as well, i would have followed it to be safe.

[burn_your_money]

I'd play with the boost and fuel until she blows, then I'd do it properly. How high are you planning on going? (boost)

[macka]

I'd play with the boost and fuel until she blows, then I'd do it properly. How high are you planning on going? (boost)

x2, its easier to do a check torque, then monkey round with the fuel and boost. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

[Vincent Waldon]

I'd play with the boost and fuel until she blows, then I'd do it properly. How high are you planning on going? (boost)

x2, its easier to do a check torque, then monkey round with the fuel and boost. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

X3... I'm pushing nearly 30 psi on occasion with good ole Febi headbolts and no issues... I think the headbolts hold things together pretty well in general.

Of course, YMMV.