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distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 10 Jun, 2009 11:58
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My IP is leaking pretty bad and it appears to be leaking from the distributor head o-ring. Has anyone replaced that o-ring with the IP in the car? I have A/C and to remove the IP it looks like the compressor has to come off first to allow access to one of the two IP engine block mount bolts- a lot more work than I'd like.
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#1
by
Zulfiqar
on 10 Jun, 2009 13:48
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Ive got the same setup - you can remove the pump without unmounting the compressor its just 4 bolts 3 pulley side and 1 on the back side, unbolt the pump pulley slap a gear puller on it and remove.
Its risky business working the high pressure pump head while on the car
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#2
by
myke_w
on 10 Jun, 2009 14:08
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You can do it but it's tricky. I'd also suggest removing the pump unless you know about the internals of IP's and can put it back together if it falls apart on you.
Be certain to turn the pump over by hand several times after you are done to verify you got it right.
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#3
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 10 Jun, 2009 15:04
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I've got the o-ring in- a viton one! Did it without removing the pump. It was tight and I had to grind down a T-30 bit 3/8 drive in order for the bit to fit square on the 4 torx bolts. Had a close call when I used the T-30 on the Hex allen head bolt for the plate bracket thinking they were all the same! Luckily it came off without stripping! Only found out it was hex when I couldn't get the T-30 bit off the allen head after it came out! I kept things clean as best as I can and took some pics which I'll post later (in a day or 2). I turned the engine over at the crankshaft bolt and it turned without resistance so that's good sign. Still have to put the injector lines and other stuff back and see if the leak is taken care of. Wish me luck and thanks all for the tips!
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#4
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 10 Jun, 2009 18:31
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Just came back from a test drive and the leak is no more! Yeah! However, the miss is still there. If I pull the cold start lever out a little, it smooths out the idle a bit. What should I try next? Rebuild the injectors? What should the compression be for my engine? I checked it a few weeks ago and it was 450, 475, 400, 475. Are they acceptable?
I don't see anywetness on the head gasket anymore so what thought was a coolant leak was diesel leak from the IP spraying back and not coolant. I will keep a close watch on coolant level just to be sure.
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#5
by
rabbitman
on 10 Jun, 2009 18:42
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However, the miss is still there. If I pull the cold start lever out a little, it smooths out the idle a bit. What should I try next? Rebuild the injectors? What should the compression be for my engine? I checked it a few weeks ago and it was 450, 475, 400, 475. Are they acceptable?
Your compression is good, minimum is 398psi, some on this board have less than that.
For the miss it sounds like your timing is a bit retarded. Rebuilt injectors aren't a bad idea anyways, IIRC the recommended life span is 60,000 miles.
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#6
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 10 Jun, 2009 19:11
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I did check the IP timing with a dial indicator and it was spot on at 0.040". Maybe I should check it again. I also had the injectors out and pop tested them for spray pattern and they all looked similar with the similar opening pressure. I didn't spend a lot of time on them just a quick check. I think the opening pressure was 1800 psi? The nozzle faces was pretty flat and not eroded down like a high mileage injector. What should the opening pressure be for the injectors? Damm, my Bently, which I ordered more than 3 weeks ago is still not here yet. I'm going to give that Amazon store a bad feedback- that's for sure!.
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#7
by
arb
on 11 Jun, 2009 13:03
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I did check the IP timing with a dial indicator and it was spot on at 0.040".
Yours is a turbo ? Spec for a turbo is 1.00 mm = 0.0396" - others are down to 0.83 or so mm.
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#8
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Jun, 2009 14:26
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For anyone attempting to replace the o-ring with the pump on the car, you must maintain pressure on the main plunger while you loosen the bolts that hold the distributor head in place. Otherwise you run the very serious risk of destroying the pump.
Andrew
That is correct. An keeping things clean is also very important! The way I kept pressure on the main plunger was by backing the four T-30 torx bolts out just enough to expose the o-ring, then remove only one at a time to slip the o-ring over each T-30. That means at any given time there's always 3 T-30 in place.
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#9
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Jun, 2009 14:29
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I did check the IP timing with a dial indicator and it was spot on at 0.040".
Yours is a turbo ? Spec for a turbo is 1.00 mm = 0.0396" - others are down to 0.83 or so mm.
Mine has a turbo but without fuel enrichment
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#10
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Jun, 2009 14:30
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This shows the rear IP mounting plate already removed. Note that 2 of the bolts on the plate are hex heads, not Torx. Use the right bit! Note also the delivery valves are capped to keep dirt out. The box wrench was used for leverage on a 1/4 drive ratchet driving a 3/8 drive T-30 bit to crack the bottom rear corner bolt. Make sure your bit is not cocked and fit square and seated all the way in the T-30.
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#11
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Jun, 2009 14:57
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Solenoid valve removed and head taped up with duct tape to keep dirt away. Note the four T-30"s are backed out just enough to expose the o-ring, which has been lifted and cut. Use a sharp awl that is softer than the cast iron head to get the o-ring out, brass, aluminum, bone etc so you don't nick the o-ring grove. The old o-ring was stuck on the groove pretty good and I had to undo one T-30 at a time to "unwind" the o-ring off the groove.
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#12
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Jun, 2009 15:02
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Old o-ring is off and new Viton o-ring ready to go on. Don't know if the pic show it, but this Viton o-ring is brown in color. I want to be able to run biodiesel and SVO so Viton is a good idea.
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#13
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Jun, 2009 15:11
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You can see the brown Viton 0-ring sitting on the front T-30 bolt. Grease it with Vaseline so it will slip over the duct tape and allow it to go into the pump body easier. Un-screw one T-30 at a time and let the o-ring fall into the groove, put the bolt back before doing the next one. I lifted the o-ring with a hook while unscrewing the T-30 because I didn't want to chance the sharp edges of the thread cutting the o-ring. Once the o-ring is seated in the groove, tighten each T-30 a bit at a time so the head goes in straight and square.
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#14
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Jun, 2009 15:18
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I had to grind down the body of my 3/8 drive T-30 since it was interfering on the deliver valve threads. If your bit is smaller in diameter you may not have to grind it like I had to.
Hope these pics help someone who will be doing this job.