Or the K24 and in some cases the K14.Only source I know is German eBay.
Quote from: Rabbit TD on June 09, 2009, 06:23:31 pmI want something that will go to about ten psi. on a mountain pull and spool up a little quicker at the bottom end and I hear the K14 does this.Yes, it does. Provided your sticking with stock boost pressures there's no downside to the k14. You'll spool 1,000 rpms sooner without any detriment to the upper rpms. Sounds like the K14 is just the ticket for you.
I want something that will go to about ten psi. on a mountain pull and spool up a little quicker at the bottom end and I hear the K14 does this.
The ECOdiesel would have come stock with a k14.There is ALWAYS oil in the compressor area because the crank vent, which contains oil vapors, enters the intake tubing upstream of the turbo. If the turbo is making boost, the wastegate is regulating it to 10 psi or so, both fans are in good condition and the shaft spins freely and doesn't rub the housings, then there's no need to rebuild the turbo. It won't gain you anything. A rebuilt one won't gain you any added fuel economy. Clean it and figure out where the oil is leaking from. Most often it is leaking from around the intake hose and being pushed out by boost pressure. I wonder how many turbos have been replaced when tightening the hose clamp would have cured the symptoms?Injectors are certainly worth rebuilding if they have significant miles on them (more than 60,000). They can have a bit of an impact on fuel economy, but the engine would have to be running like doo-doo for the injectors to make that big of a difference. More importantly is that routinely rebuilding them can prevent internal engine damage (such as piston erosion or increased cylinder wear) which can happen without even any display of any symptoms at all.Most likely your fuel economy drop is some other factor (timing, compression, dragging brakes, tire pressure, bad cv joints, bad wheel bearings, etc, etc, etc... the list is extensive).Andrew
Quote from: libbybapa on June 09, 2009, 06:25:56 pmThe ECOdiesel would have come stock with a k14.There is ALWAYS oil in the compressor area because the crank vent, which contains oil vapors, enters the intake tubing upstream of the turbo. If the turbo is making boost, the wastegate is regulating it to 10 psi or so, both fans are in good condition and the shaft spins freely and doesn't rub the housings, then there's no need to rebuild the turbo. It won't gain you anything. A rebuilt one won't gain you any added fuel economy. Clean it and figure out where the oil is leaking from. Most often it is leaking from around the intake hose and being pushed out by boost pressure. I wonder how many turbos have been replaced when tightening the hose clamp would have cured the symptoms?Injectors are certainly worth rebuilding if they have significant miles on them (more than 60,000). They can have a bit of an impact on fuel economy, but the engine would have to be running like doo-doo for the injectors to make that big of a difference. More importantly is that routinely rebuilding them can prevent internal engine damage (such as piston erosion or increased cylinder wear) which can happen without even any display of any symptoms at all.Most likely your fuel economy drop is some other factor (timing, compression, dragging brakes, tire pressure, bad cv joints, bad wheel bearings, etc, etc, etc... the list is extensive).AndrewSpeaking specifically to that, all brakes are new, all wheel bearings are new, I checked my injection timing after I replaced my timing belt last summer, all is good. I even got 43 mpg after all that. But over the coarse of the winter it dropped to 32-33mpg, I was hoping it was just winter fuel but it's not the case. Another note. I believe my boot from the compressor to the intake manifold might have been loose, because occasionally on a hard start in the winter I'd get a puff of smoke from the turbo but I never could tell exactly where it was coming from. I recently pulled all my hoses off the turbo, they all seemed very tight, but I reinstalled them and made sure they were tight. Also I have a easy spinning compressor and no play in the shaft.
Already tired changing the fuel filter out about 500 miles ago....I was hoping it would fix it....mileage didn't change at all.
Quote from: Doakster on June 13, 2009, 04:22:38 pmAlready tired changing the fuel filter out about 500 miles ago....I was hoping it would fix it....mileage didn't change at all. get a cheapie $5 vacuum gauge and leave it after the filter. this will give you a good idea of whats going on, and also let you know when its time for a new filter even new filters can be bad...
I'm bringing this one back up....here's what I've done to troubleshoot my mileage issue. -Pulled injectors, had them rebuilt with all new nozzles.-Checked Timing, dead on to where I set it when I previously did the timing belt a year ago. about .037-.038- Check compression, all cylinders were withing 440-450psi, well withing the low limit of 417psi- Checked ALL intake/turbo boots, no holes, no cuts, made sure the clamp were all very tight- Installed new air filter- Installed new fuel filter (about 1000 miles ago)Results mileage only increased from 30 or so to 35, this is killing me not being able to get it up to my normal 43. Mentioned in another thread was air in getting to the IP, i do get a bubble every now and them going into the IP in the clear line, but all my rubber hoses on the fuel filter were new when I replace the fuel filter. I still think I'm gonna pull my turbo and have it rebuilt. I can't hear the thing spool up at all like I used to. I am absolutely stump on this mileage thing....would appreciate any suggestions.
Do you have a boost gauge, is it showing any boost at all? Maby the wastegate is stuck open, it's hard to tell what's going on without a gauge. If it is open all the time that could be most of your problem, the turbo is just causing an exhaust restriction if it's just going along for the ride and not making any boost>
Topic: Need New Stock Turbo (Read 4168 times)
