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changing coolant flange
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 08 Jun, 2009 05:10
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I need to change the coolant flange (one between #3&4 glow plugs). How much coolant will come out of there? Should I drain the head first? If so, where's the best place to drain?
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#1
by
macka
on 08 Jun, 2009 05:25
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drain the engine completely. I always do this unless the antifreeze is less then a few months old. It gives you a chance to see if your getting crud in the cooling jacket.
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#2
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 08 Jun, 2009 05:32
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Where's the drain plug? Still waiting for the Bently.
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#3
by
BellCityDubber
on 08 Jun, 2009 07:32
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no "plug"
bentley states to drain the system by removing the lowermost rad hose at the thermostat housing/lower waterpump flange.
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#4
by
Jettage1
on 08 Jun, 2009 19:02
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no "plug"
bentley states to drain the system by removing the lowermost rad hose at the thermostat housing/lower waterpump flange.
One of the reasons I question the alleged superiority of German engineering. It ain't rocket science - heck, even my '67 MGB has a petcock on the radiator (and yes, the electrical system is just fine, thanks.)
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#5
by
Vincent Waldon
on 08 Jun, 2009 19:12
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But wait, there's more.
Pulling the lower rad hose will only drain the rad. In order to drain the block you need to pull the t-stat housing, and in order to do that the power steering pump has to come out of the way.
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#6
by
Turbinepowered
on 08 Jun, 2009 19:34
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But wait, there's more.
Pulling the lower rad hose will only drain the rad. In order to drain the block you need to pull the t-stat housing, and in order to do that the power steering pump has to come out of the way.
Not on my Fox.
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#7
by
sdwarf36
on 08 Jun, 2009 20:12
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I wouldn't sweat the amount of coolant leaking out from changing the flange. Put a drip pan in the general location and have at the flange. If the coolant is old, then it's worth draining the whole system, tho.
Andrew
I'm with you on this one. Draining the coolant in these cars is a crewl hoax.
I've said to myself "s**t-i got to get to the thermostat-might as well pull the motor since I'm 1/2 way there."
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#8
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 08 Jun, 2009 20:15
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I wouldn't sweat the amount of coolant leaking out from changing the flange. Put a drip pan in the general location and have at the flange. If the coolant is old, then it's worth draining the whole system, tho.
Andrew
That's exactly what I did when I looked under the car and saw what a PITA dirty job it would be. Anyway the new flange is in and it don't leak there no more but I've got another problem. Please see this thread and give me some help.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=19876.0
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#9
by
Jettage1
on 09 Jun, 2009 03:29
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But wait, there's more.
Pulling the lower rad hose will only drain the rad. In order to drain the block you need to pull the t-stat housing, and in order to do that the power steering pump has to come out of the way.
Yep, and after pulling the t-stat housing three times to try to quell a pesky leak, you know I was ready to push it off a pier. Finally decided to change the water pump due to severe pitting in the aluminum where the O-ring seats. That fixed the bastard.
Oh and did I mention how much crap you have to pull to change the @#$% water pump? They just tack stuff on the engine with no thought to future maint. issues. (Course that gives the stealerships service money...)
And no, I'm not bitter...
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#10
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 09 Jun, 2009 07:20
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Sounds like a real PITA! Is this pitting on the water pump housing? Should I replace the water pump (that's not leaking) when I do the timing belt as insurance? I see that you can buy a water pump with and without thr housing. Which way should I go?
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#11
by
Jettage1
on 09 Jun, 2009 10:52
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To each his own... I wouldn't have done it except that I couldn't get the plastic t-stat housing & O-ring to seal properly. I finally decided that the pitting in the aluminum on the O-ring sealing surface on the water pump was the culprit. If yours doesn't leak, I'd leave well enough alone. I don't think it's possible to remove the water pump without also removing all accessories and the IP too.
My $.02...
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#12
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 09 Jun, 2009 11:01
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You probably could have scraped off the gunk in the pitting off the aluminum, clean with solvent and fill with epoxy then sand smooth and it would then seal against the o-ring. Don't know if there's enough room to do that.
For an easy and accesible drain of the coolant, how about removing the 4 pin radiator fan switch on bottom driver's side? It may not be the lowest point in the system but draining from the water pump sounds horrible.
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#13
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 20 Aug, 2013 15:07
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But wait, there's more.
Pulling the lower rad hose will only drain the rad. In order to drain the block you need to pull the t-stat housing, and in order to do that the power steering pump has to come out of the way.
Bringing back a really old post. Having just done a water pump replacement and having studied it closely, the block can be drained by the barb that goes to the metal pipe, wthout removing the t-stat.
Pulling that hose may be difficult. but if you tee into it with a hose coming down with a plug that can be removed when you want to drain the block, it can be done without mess or spill.
Anyone done something like that?
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#14
by
CRSMP5
on 20 Aug, 2013 17:30
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you all work tooo oooo hard...
why not heat it up with cap off bottle so no pressure... warm enough to open thermo stat.. then pull lower hose off rad? drains it all.. easy peasy.. if not warm enough.. restart it fo ra few min.. you will see when it starts to open..
\\
how i do it...