1.9 td possible tranny issue

[dieselsmoke]

I have a 1994 1.9 td and have been having a weird issue lately. If I accelerate hard (dosen't matter which gear) it goes really good from the start but at about 2700 rpm it is like the transmission isn't working anymore. The car stops accelerating and it just revs untill I let my foot off of the gas pedal and put it back on the gas pedal again and then it works fine. It is almost like someone took the car out of gear half way through the acceleration. If you accelerate normally it is fine, it is just if you put the pedal right to the floor to accelerate fast or to pass someone. Any ideas out there?

[Vincent Waldon]

That's the unmistakable sign of your clutch slipping.  This happens when the clutch wears beyond the point that the self-adjusting cable can compensate for.

There's a small chance that the self-adjusting cable is not working properly but they usually fail outright (ie foot to the floor) so the most likely scenario is that it's time to replace the clutch itself.

[dieselweasel]

EDIT:  JUST beat me to it Vince

You, my friend, have a clutch that is slipping.  Go easy on it until you can replace it.  When the clutch slips, it generates heat which will wear it further.  There are a number of pointers to be aware of for successful clutch re & re...I can go into more detail if you need it.

[dieselsmoke]

Weird, I just put this clutch in last fall and it was like new. Would it still slip even though it dosen't happen right away after shifting into a gear? I put it into gear and it goes fine but when it gets up there in rpms then is when it revs. How would a faulty clutch cable cause this symptom? I also put in a new cable last fall as well.

[Vincent Waldon]

It's slipping at higher RPMs because that's where the engine is generating a lot of torque.

If the cable is not adjusting properly it will not compensate for clutch wear, causing the clutch to slip.

[Rabbit on Roids]

probably oil soaked if its still a pretty fresh clutch. or you ride it alot. or you slip it alot. but either way. its probably about shot. my last clutch would hold until about 4-5 psi, then it would rev to the moon. took it out and it was slick. and the rivets were showing.

[commuter boy]

Could be one of the seals in the tranny/clutch that's leaking that's making your clutch slip.  No real way to tell except to pull it and re&re the thing.

[Vincent Waldon]

Weird, I just put this clutch in last fall and it was like new.

The boys above are on to something... when you did the clutch did you renew the:

- engine mainseal
- tranny driveshaft seal
- tranny pushrod bushing
- tranny pushrod seal

If the answer to any of the above is "no" then an engine and/or tranny oil leak may be the cause of your slipping clutch.

If you remove the inspection plug from the top of the transmission and shine a light down is there any sign of oil splattering ? Any oil drips right at the bottom of the bell housing?

Unfortunately this is all moot... unless the cable is binding your tranny's coming out... and then you'll be able to tell what's really going on.

[dieselweasel]

Yup, I had to replace my clutch a month ago because the pushrod bushing was worn, causing the pushrod seal to leak.  The oil soaked the clutch, causing it to slip.  Was a shame as there was lots of meat left on the clutch disc.  VW sure made a weird clutch set-up.

[dieselsmoke]

Thanks for the replys guys.

When I put this engine and tranny into the car I put new

- engine mainseal (the old one was leaking like a stuck pig)
- tranny driveshaft seal
- tranny pushrod bushing
- tranny pushrod seal
- tranny push rod and pressure plate

I replaced all of those seals plus all of the ones on the front of the engine because I hate leaky engines.

I noticed that there is no leaks under the car when it is parked in the garage so I don't think I have a leak in the engine or tranny.

My wife drives the car and she is easy on the clutches. She used this one for about a year when it was in the other car and when it was inspected it was still like new in the fall.

I have one of the automatic adjustable clutch cables in the car, is it possible that the cable is defective and not disengauging the clutch properly? Is there anyway to test this or do you just have to replace the cable.

[Vincent Waldon]

Good man...  sounds like you covered the bases in the seal department for sure.

Just had a gander at the MK3 Bentley... the functional check of the auto cable is pretty straightforward (page 30a-5):

1) depress the clutch to the floor at least 5 times
2) under the hood, push the clutch release arm down towards the road.. it should move approximately 10mm (0.39")

If it doesn't, the Bentley says replace it or try the "attempt to repair" procedure listed on the next page... but it's a full page and three pictures long... hard to explain over the interweb unfortunately... basically you use an engine sling tool to lock the clutch lever in the up position after pushing on the clutch, and then pull down on the cable, compressing the self adjustment mechanism.

I've never been successful in fixing 'em myself... VW came out with a manual version of the MK3 cable and that's what I use now:  1H1 721 335 AB  .  I also like being able to customize the release point. :wink:

[dieselsmoke]

Looks like I will go and pick up a new clutch cable then and give it a try. I don't think I will bother with the "attempt to repair" since if it is messed up now it might happen again after the "repair". I will see if I can get the maual cable as well. I like the manual ones as well but couldn't find one for the mk3 as it seemed like they were phasing them out and wanting you to get the automatic one.

[dieselsmoke]

I did the check where you push the clutch pedal 5 times and then push down on the clutch release arm. I could push it down almost 1 3/4 of an inch. In the book it says .39 of an inch but it dosen't say if it matters if it can go more than .39 of an inch. Is 1 3/4 of an inch ok or is that too much and the cable should be replaced?