Author Topic: help on converting wg can (Read 3989 times)

carrizog60 · « **on:** April 12, 2009, 11:11:29 am »

hello

can someone help a bit by posting again the pics where the job of converting a VNT wastegate can to work with pressure?
i need to know how to open/close,convert to pressure,all the stuff to make it work.

i could try to do it without help but its the only one i have so i dont want to mess it up with trials...its a gt2052v unit if it matters.

thanks

carrizog60 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 12, 2009, 12:00:34 pm »

ok thanks.
and for the internals?

carrizog60 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 13, 2009, 02:35:30 pm »

Baixo · « **Reply #3 on:** April 13, 2009, 04:56:38 pm »

sorry for hi-jacking your thread....

but...I spent a evening in Aveiro recently in a trip to the Continente

Im jealous...haha

dont forget to post pics and videos of your VNT turbo'd TD

carrizog60 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 14, 2009, 11:50:13 am »

aveiro at night can be beautifull

on to the topic:

one thing i cant figure out...
on rest position the vanes are in such way that wont try to make boost right?
if i suck( :lol: )on the wg can the pin will go in and i supose it will start to try to make boost.
now,if i flip the internal wont the movement be on reverse?how would that work?
sorry but cant understand right... :oops:

hamradio · « **Reply #5 on:** April 14, 2009, 01:30:35 pm »

Instead of messing with flipping the internals of the vac actuator (actually, I did, and then got tired of messing with it), I took a t3 wastegate actuator (mine came from a volvo 740 or something), cut the shaft short, welded a piece of bolt in the thread of the original actuator to it, and tack welded it to the bracket that held the vac actuator. It works great.

I'll grab some pics later tonight, as long as the turbo is out of the car.

carrizog60 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 14, 2009, 02:03:24 pm »

this is the turbo in question

if i put the internal in the other way wont the shaft only try to move to the side that...it cant?because the shaft only moves to the can side.
i want to use the same setup as fspgtd and you libbypappa used but cant figure out how to make it and most pics on the forum are out... :cry:

carrizog60 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 14, 2009, 03:04:35 pm »

hum,i think i figure it out.
if i make a conection from the vane linkage to the throtle when i hit gas i will close the vanes and make boost.at idle they are open.
as soon as boost rises the pressurised air coming to the top of the wg can will make the WG can plunger go down and force vane linkage to open again.
the extra clearance needed is achieved by springs in the throtle connections.

if i am right till now what would control the boost level at witch the boost can will force the vanes to open?WG can spring?
and after the vanes being open will the boost stop climbing?
lets say,i want 1.5 bar from my setup.
will the can only move the vane control after hitting the 1.5 bar?or will be like stock pump governor and act sooner?
and will the boost stop increasing after 1.5 bar is reached(and vanes open) despite the increasing rpm and fuel ?

hamradio · « **Reply #8 on:** April 14, 2009, 04:24:50 pm »

Quote from: "libbybapa"

fspGTD (Jake) and I used very different setups. Jake's setup used it with the internals flipped and an external wastegate mounted to the exhaust manifold.

Mine used the internals flipped and the accelerator actuation I mentioned earlier. Mine does not have the actuator mounted to the turbo.

If you simply flip the internals and replace it onto the turbo you will have the vanes always closed unless boost is present. That reduces efficiency by increasing back-pressure at idle and cruise and makes the transitions from cruise to acceleration "jumpy" but is a simpler method than the more complex linkages. You have to decide what you want.

I'm running it vanes-normally-closed, and it works excellent. I have them set a touch off of fully closed. I don't think the transition from cruise-acceleration is jumpy at all; it's very drivable on the freeway, and overall very smooth and zippy in it's power.

carrizog60 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 15, 2009, 11:54:45 pm »

how would the vane return to rest position on part throttle driving?

carrizog60 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 16, 2009, 11:59:56 pm »

i will try to do my setup the way you(libbypappa) did.
i have made a "thing" and the problem its solved but unless the vane linkage as is own will to return to normal position i don't know how i will do it as the spring on the accelerator will pull the vane linkage even at part throttle or am i missing something?

carrizog60 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 17, 2009, 12:08:55 am »

the vane linkage will attached to the metal plate with a adjustable screw.
the spring will be linked to a metal cable that will go to the accelerator.
the other adjustable screw with the disc on top will be were the WG screw will push.

is this right?
only missing the way to the vane return

arb · « **Reply #12 on:** April 17, 2009, 05:41:52 am »

really cool thread guys... I never would that thought of cutting open the can and screwing it back together.

keep us updated.

carrizog60 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 19, 2009, 11:53:48 pm »

Quote

only missing the way to the vane return

any help on this?

carrizog60 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 20, 2009, 11:54:51 pm »

another great idea

but the linkage from the WG can will not bend/jiggle when opening the vanes?

Author Topic: help on converting wg can (Read 3989 times)

Baixo

arb