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Amsoil Bypass engine oil filter
by
blackdogvan
on 02 Apr, 2009 13:37
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Anyone here running these? I seem to remember them in a 53willys post somewhere...
http://www.amsoil.com/Storefront/bf.aspxI got a price from a local dealer, $300CAD for the filter mount kit & $60CAD for the smallest filters tax and shipping included. $60/year for a 2 micron filters seems like pretty good value to me.
The parts list online there shows the filter mount has a .032" orifice to restrict the oil flow, makes sense, but is it just a $300 remote filter mount with a flow restriction & a couple of hoses in the kit?
Either way I really want one!
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#1
by
jtanguay
on 02 Apr, 2009 15:45
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Anyone here running these? I seem to remember them in a 53willys post somewhere...
http://www.amsoil.com/Storefront/bf.aspx
I got a price from a local dealer, $300CAD for the filter mount kit & $60CAD for the smallest filters tax and shipping included. $60/year for a 2 micron filters seems like pretty good value to me.
The parts list online there shows the filter mount has a .032" orifice to restrict the oil flow, makes sense, but is it just a $300 remote filter mount with a flow restriction & a couple of hoses in the kit?
Either way I really want one!
i bought an FS-2500 filter (just the housing) and it was about $300 or so. no hoses... but the filters are about $20USD each and theres a supplier in Vancouver i believe.
the video on their site compares their filter to an older amsoil bypass filter, and beats it into the ground. supposedly their newer filter competes just as good if not better (they say 1 micron absolute, but i'm a little skeptical of that claim)
so far on about 500km with it on, my oil is still very clean. there is just a slight tinge of darkness from the soot. i'd compare the oil in my car to clean oil which has been run for about 5-20km or so. once i'm done the break in period for the rings, i'll be running a high quality synthetic oil and probably never change it again. (since i need to replace some oil when doing the bypass filter changes) i'm also going to be running a 15 micron full flow filter from amsoil which will last about 80,000km and provide even more wear protection.
www.fs2500.com for more info. i bought my filter housing off ebay because they don't have any bolt on kits for our little vw's yet. and looking at ebay right now there's none for sale... you could actually make one out of aluminum by getting a big piece of stock and machining it. and then using a large aluminum pipe and weld a base on it. after all that with materials included it shouldn't cost more than $250 and still make it lighter than their stock filter housing (which isn't light...)
oh and about oil pressure, my gauge sits at about 15 psi hot idle with 15w40 oil. its a little bit on the low side, so i think the filter is 'leeching' a little bit too much pressure. what i might do is look for a ball valve to open a little at low psi and a lot at high psi. in the upper rpm range the psi is about 60-80 psi or so which is good.
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#2
by
AudiVWguy
on 09 Apr, 2009 19:03
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What kind of adapter did you use to route the lines to the filter? Pictures?
If you don't like your oil pressure you can shim the by-pass spring in the oil pump. (If it's similar to my 1.6 design)
Wix makes a spin-on oil filter for Cat diesels that filters down to 4 microns. Stock is 25 microns. I'm to figure out a remote location since its not the right thread pitch to spin directly on.
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#3
by
jtanguay
on 09 Apr, 2009 19:44
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What kind of adapter did you use to route the lines to the filter? Pictures?
If you don't like your oil pressure you can shim the by-pass spring in the oil pump. (If it's similar to my 1.6 design)
Wix makes a spin-on oil filter for Cat diesels that filters down to 4 microns. Stock is 25 microns. I'm to figure out a remote location since its not the right thread pitch to spin directly on.
a 4 micron full flow filter??? hmmm kinda scary :shock:... the oil by-pass spring is only to limit the upper range of oil pressure so it won't help my situation
maybe i'll add some moly stuff to my oil to ensure no metal on metal contact
. the 1.9TDI (and probably IDI) filter mount has an open threaded port on top that has to be removed to add the line. the return goes right to the valve cover. i'll try to get a pic soon.
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#4
by
AudiVWguy
on 10 Apr, 2009 08:09
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The filter I was talking about is a by pass style like OE. The FS-2000, is this in addition to the stock factory set up? Where do you get your oil for the turbo from? How much longer on the break in? I have played with shimming the by pass spring and it will help at idle also. But it will be easier to create a restriction at the inlet of the filter.
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#5
by
jtanguay
on 10 Apr, 2009 08:51
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The filter I was talking about is a by pass style like OE. The FS-2000, is this in addition to the stock factory set up? Where do you get your oil for the turbo from? How much longer on the break in? I have played with shimming the by pass spring and it will help at idle also. But it will be easier to create a restriction at the inlet of the filter.
if shimming the bypass spring increases idle pressure, then i think the pump might be leaking pressure there. i suppose i could try that...
the fs-2500 works in conjunction with the full flow filter. it only leeches about 5 psi at idle (assumption :oops: :lol:) but i'd imagine much more at speed, and filtering much more oil. the fs filter also filters down to 3 microns absolute.
the filter flange on my 1Z TDI engine has three ports on it. one for the turbo oil feed, one for the sensor, and one blank with a plug in it that was removed to add the feed line to the bypass filter. i don't think 1.6 flanges have the extra port, so a tee is required. M10 is apparently difficult to find but i bought one online from germanautoparts.com. there is an imperial fitting that will work, and probably seal with enough teflon tape though :lol:, just can't remember the size.
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#6
by
zukgod1
on 10 Apr, 2009 13:46
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I used an M-10 to 1/8" adapter off the flange and got one of the old vac pump drains for the front of the block for the return. Worked great.
I used a brass 1/8" nipple screwed into the adapter, welded the nipple completely up and drilled a 1/16" hole in it.
The first hole was 1/8", I was reading my PSI @ the head and I lost 15 psi @ 2500 rpm. :shock: So I took it apart, welded it back up and redrilled to 1/16", Seemed better.
I was running a NAPA hydro filter @ 10 microns. I had planned on changing to an Amsoil 2 micron filter but never did.
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#7
by
AudiVWguy
on 10 Apr, 2009 15:37
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Its getting kinda crowded in the engine bay. Dan would the NAPA Hydro filter spin on in place of the OE oil filter? What was the part # or the original application for the NAPA Hydro filter? I suppose I could mount a remote filter housing on the strut housing. You guys got any pics?
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#8
by
jtanguay
on 11 Apr, 2009 08:25
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Its getting kinda crowded in the engine bay. Dan would the NAPA Hydro filter spin on in place of the OE oil filter? What was the part # or the original application for the NAPA Hydro filter? I suppose I could mount a remote filter housing on the strut housing. You guys got any pics?
nope. the lowest micron you can go with a spin on filter is amsoils EaO 15 micron filter. any lower and you're really impeding the oil flow... i'll take a pic of mine. its in a really good location :wink:
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#9
by
Smokey Eddy
on 11 Apr, 2009 12:10
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maybe i'll add some moly stuff to my oil to ensure no metal on metal contact .
I asked a while back why people don't add moly to their oil ...
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#10
by
AndyL
on 11 Apr, 2009 15:09
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I'm probably going to be running one on my 4runner w/ 1.6TD
Running a big 'standard' full flow filter + the 2 micron seems like a no brainer to me; met a local guy running one on a 7.3psd - his oil looked like it was almost new... Yet apparently he was due for an oilchange.
plate & 2micron filter is a bit to the pricey side, but there are definitely benefits to going this way...
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#11
by
jtanguay
on 11 Apr, 2009 16:11
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I'm probably going to be running one on my 4runner w/ 1.6TD
Running a big 'standard' full flow filter + the 2 micron seems like a no brainer to me; met a local guy running one on a 7.3psd - his oil looked like it was almost new... Yet apparently he was due for an oilchange.
plate & 2micron filter is a bit to the pricey side, but there are definitely benefits to going this way...
you'll save the money by not having to do oil changes, and you can use the high quality oils.
maybe i'll add some moly stuff to my oil to ensure no metal on metal contact .
I asked a while back why people don't add moly to their oil ...
its not quite necessary, but a great backup if your engine suddenly runs out of oil for whatever reason. :wink:
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#12
by
fdnyguy
on 13 Apr, 2009 07:25
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I'm probably going to be running one on my 4runner w/ 1.6TD
Running a big 'standard' full flow filter + the 2 micron seems like a no brainer to me; met a local guy running one on a 7.3psd - his oil looked like it was almost new... Yet apparently he was due for an oilchange.
plate & 2micron filter is a bit to the pricey side, but there are definitely benefits to going this way...
you'll save the money by not having to do oil changes, and you can use the high quality oils.
Especially with a 16 quart oil change every time. $100 every time I change my oil with synthetic.
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#13
by
burn_your_money
on 13 Apr, 2009 14:10
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Hopefully I'll have my kit built soon. I just need to finish the drawings and then get some quotes from the local machine shops.
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#14
by
zukgod1
on 13 Apr, 2009 14:24
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I sure do think they are a good thing on diesels.
Anything we can do to keep the soot out of the oil is a good thing.