WVO Observations

[ObscuredByClouds]

 

[bert]

i would say both my cars a golf gtd (sold) and my jetta and infact my mk1 aaz are slightly slower on veg oil,the used veg oil is slightly worse too  :wink:
Bert

[the caveman]

Generally as a rule on a IDI non -ecu controlled engine will get 7-10 % less power. I do feel the difference but then remember even with the throttle smashed to floor i'm causing at least  30 % pollution.
I only use 100% canola [okay there may be some peanut oil in there also but not more than 5 %] all year. No issues with running in winter except when it's -20 oC or below

[Hey]

How do you centrifuge your oil?

[jtanguay]

How do you centrifuge your oil?

are you asking how a centrifuge works, or what type of centrifuge he's using, ie: bought or home made?

[fatmobile]

With straight vegetable oil the temps need to be higher but it sounds like he is using a 1 tank/blend setup.

 I know with a 2-tank WVO system the timing matters.
 It works better if the timing is set at the most advanced postion it can handle.
 I think the fuel explodes slower, I've noticed a loss of power at higher RPMs.
 This was with the dreaded GC 4-speed, screaming just to go 65,
 when I swapped to a highway friendly 5-speed there was more power at highway speeds.
 Lower RPM, same speed, more power.

[the caveman]

I filter using 2 large racor filters with water seperaters ,first one is 30 microns, second is 2 microns. The centrifuge would be better if the waste oil quality was questionable and or there is water in it. The waste oil i get is already good quality,  in closed containers, 100 % canola and changed often. I can see there is little if any water so i don't have to sweat that.
My truck [and the 30 vehicles i have converted in the past 3 years] are 2 tank, heat exchanger in the VO tank, heated VO fuel filter and a Vegetherm just before the pump. No blending with any other products,just straight clean VO. As in any type of fuel, the best quality that goes into the vehicle, will cause the least problems. I go about 20,000 kms on the VO filter and i have yet to change my diesel filter [heater element is bypassed] since i got the truck 25,000 kms ago.

[DYNOMAX]

I filter using 2 large racor filters with water seperaters ,first one is 30 microns, second is 2 microns. The centrifuge would be better if the waste oil quality was questionable and or there is water in it. The waste oil i get is already good quality,  in closed containers, 100 % canola and changed often. I can see there is little if any water so i don't have to sweat that.

Do you got a company where you buy the filters ?
I am allsow interested in some water seperaters.

[belchfire]

I heat my collected oil to around 250 deg with a water heater element just to make sure that all of the water is gone and filter it through a screen and then through a 10 micron polypropylene bag filter into the storage tank.
I get the bags from McMaster-Carr for about 3 bucks apiece. They will sell to anyone with a credit card and UPS them to your door within a day or two.
I've seen filters for much more on E-bay and I bet they're the same ones.
  Got to run the oil hot. I went with electric heat on the injection lines and around the filter. Got it from fatty wagons. Better prices from them on E-Bay. I switch when the engine is up to temp as I only need the oil hot enough to flow to the filters where it receives the final boost. I calculate that I'm only getting 25 mpg vs 34 on oil but with processing and all, it's less than a buck a gallon. The vehicle is DOA after the bypass hose blew while doing 85. Ran great 'till then.

[arb]

I heat my collected oil to around 250 deg with a water heater element just to make sure that all of the water is gone and filter it through a screen and then through a 10 micron polypropylene bag filter into the storage tank.
I get the bags from McMaster-Carr for about 3 bucks apiece. They will sell to anyone with a credit card and UPS them to your door within a day or two.
I've seen filters for much more on E-bay and I bet they're the same ones.
  Got to run the oil hot. I went with electric heat on the injection lines and around the filter. Got it from fatty wagons. Better prices from them on E-Bay. I switch when the engine is up to temp as I only need the oil hot enough to flow to the filters where it receives the final boost. I calculate that I'm only getting 25 mpg vs 34 on oil but with processing and all, it's less than a buck a gallon. The vehicle is DOA after the bypass hose blew while doing 85. Ran great 'till then.

DOA ? Is there anything wrong other than a blown hose and a small mess under the hood ?

[belchfire]

When I noticed a loss of power, I looked at the gauges and the temp was on it's third time around. It got so hot that it cracked the pre-combustion chambers. Look at the "destroy all lifters" posting to read the complete soap opera on this engine.
  As a side note, my compression gauge turned out to be shot so my assumptions were probably wrong. Most likely the IP pump coincidentally crapping out at the same time. Know any good rebuilders?

[jtanguay]

When I noticed a loss of power, I looked at the gauges and the temp was on it's third time around. It got so hot that it cracked the pre-combustion chambers. Look at the "destroy all lifters" posting to read the complete soap opera on this engine.
  As a side note, my compression gauge turned out to be shot so my assumptions were probably wrong. Most likely the IP pump coincidentally crapping out at the same time. Know any good rebuilders?

and this is why i believe that with WVO it needs to be heated, but the heat must be regulated.  most guys just let the WVO reach whatever temp, which is okay in the winter, but not in the dead heat of a hot summer day.

imagine going uphill pulling a load and the engine coolant temp goes through the roof.  all that heat is then passed to the fuel.  you then reach a stop sign...  now the WVO is sooo thin that it actually leaks from the injector and bingo... the swirl chamber is already smoking hot so the fuel starts to burn...  

this is why i'm working on a system to make a fuel heater/cooler  :wink: i think the design could revolutionize the WVO market come to think of it... i just need to get my butt in gear (and $$$  :lol:) to realize this goal.

[belchfire]

Usually the problem is with getting the oil hot enough. I run the factory thermostat (195) and the oil should not get hotter than that. Due to the inefficiencies of thermal transfer, it's usually cooler.
  I had an instance however when the oil got heated to 240 degrees. Turned out that the exhaust gasket failed and the gasses were blowing onto the hoses. It still ran fine. When the bypass hose failed and the engine went into meltdown, It still ran good on SVO.  Good oil shouldn't smoke until about 350 deg. I regularly heat my collected oil to 250 to 275 deg to drive out any water and make it easier to filter.
 Bottom line is that I think that you're chasing a non-problem. Unless you're driving in the summer in Phoenix and using molten lead as coolant, I don't see a problem.

[arb]

. Unless you're driving in the summer in Phoenix and using molten lead as coolant, I don't see a problem.

Liquid sodium makes a much better coolant. Just don't get a leak in your system, or add water ;-)

Anyone ever cut the valve stem of a sodium filled valve and keep your fingers / eyes ?