Author Topic: A Sad Sad Sad sound.... =(  (Read 11856 times)

Reply #30March 25, 2009, 09:52:32 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #30 on: March 25, 2009, 09:52:32 pm »
not all synthetic oils have moly.  check this out.  most people swear by their additives  :wink:

my local c-tire sells a wheel bearing grease with moly in it.  it has an orange container (or maybe just orange top? its been a while...) that stuff should be good for CV joints right?

if you could find this stuff, thats what you should use.


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Reply #31March 25, 2009, 09:58:06 pm

Smokey Eddy

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« Reply #31 on: March 25, 2009, 09:58:06 pm »
Sweet SAUCE! I'll spend my $40 cad tire money i've saved on it!
Ed
Blacked out mk2 AAZ Jetta RIP. You are missed.
White 1999.5 ALH Golf 2dr. Low & wide. Rammed off the road RIP.
Blue 2009 CR140 Jetta CBEA/CJAA. Malone stage 2. EGR/DPF/Exhaust-valve deletes. 2.5" open exhaust. ADP Turbo swap. 1-stage nitrous kit. THROWN ROD

Reply #32March 25, 2009, 10:21:39 pm

truckinwagen

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« Reply #32 on: March 25, 2009, 10:21:39 pm »
I have had great results rebuilding CV Joints for aircooled vw's(exactly the same as the 90mm watercooled ones)

I just pull it apart and clean everything with carb cleaner, then inspect.

it will be obvious if the joint is shot, lots of pitting where the balls meet the races.

then rebuild, grease like a wheel bearing(grease in palm of hand, work it in until it comes out other side) and install backwards of original(so that the driving forces are on fresher surfaces normally used only when backing up or engine breaking)

you can get lots of life out of CV's that many think are shot!
83 Opel Kadett Diesel

Reply #33March 25, 2009, 11:59:16 pm

Smokey Eddy

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« Reply #33 on: March 25, 2009, 11:59:16 pm »
Hmmm. Interesting...

But is getting it apart the hard part?
Someone suggested (on this thread) that it's more worth the bother just to buy a new drive shaft with the CV's already on them....
Ed
Blacked out mk2 AAZ Jetta RIP. You are missed.
White 1999.5 ALH Golf 2dr. Low & wide. Rammed off the road RIP.
Blue 2009 CR140 Jetta CBEA/CJAA. Malone stage 2. EGR/DPF/Exhaust-valve deletes. 2.5" open exhaust. ADP Turbo swap. 1-stage nitrous kit. THROWN ROD

Reply #34March 26, 2009, 07:56:44 am

jtanguay

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« Reply #34 on: March 26, 2009, 07:56:44 am »
Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"
Hmmm. Interesting...

But is getting it apart the hard part?
Someone suggested (on this thread) that it's more worth the bother just to buy a new drive shaft with the CV's already on them....


the hardest part getting them apart is the stupid steel clamp, and sometimes they're not all the same (depending on if they've been rebuilt or not).  removing the clamps to be re-useable is probably very difficult, but doable. i have not found out how, but would like to know.


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Reply #35March 26, 2009, 08:18:07 am

truckinwagen

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« Reply #35 on: March 26, 2009, 08:18:07 am »
I always replace the clamp with a circlip, they stock ones always bend and wont properly hold the joint on the shaft, circlips are easier to install and remove, are re-usable and cheap.
83 Opel Kadett Diesel

Reply #36April 01, 2009, 08:29:01 pm

westcoaster

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« Reply #36 on: April 01, 2009, 08:29:01 pm »
Smokey,

I'm parting an '87 jetta that had a 1.6TD in it. still have the shafts.
To the best of my recolection, Passenger side at the tranny didn't have any tears, drivers side did.
Wasn't rattling when parked. Make a reasonable offer.
I'll have to pull the shafts.
If nothing else, you have a set of shafts to make your mistakes on before you get to the good ones.

Car is in Maple Ridge, I'm in Surrey.


westcoasterz (at) gmail (dot) com
'87 suzuki samurai with a 1.9 AAZ TD transplant