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#15
by
RabbitJockey
on 22 Mar, 2009 20:03
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i have done them by hand they aren't particularly tight, i think they are supposed be 30 foot pounds or something like that, but i;ve never used a torque wrench on them. tights tight i guess.
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#16
by
Smokey Eddy
on 22 Mar, 2009 20:04
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really? oh man i thought each one was at like 130 ft/lbs...
this is sounding more plausible every post! thanks man.
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#17
by
Vincent Waldon
on 22 Mar, 2009 20:22
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What else would i want? Wheel bearing kit for it as well? a worn CV would have knackered that wheel bearing yes?
Nah, don't mess with the Zoltan....er... wheel bearing... unless you really have to. It won't have been damaged by a worn CV joint and you need a press to R&R them.
In terms of torque, you're probably thinking of the big 30mm axle nut... yes you'll need a breaker bar and cheater pipe to get it off, and it does get torqued down pretty good (265 Nm 195 ft lbs), but nothing to scare you off. Princess Auto almost always has a sale on 1/2" breaker bars.:wink:
The 8mm triple-square bolts themselves get torqued to 45 Nm 33 ft lbs.
I like to remove the upper ball joint bolt and pop the control arm down so that the entire steering knuckle swings wide to give me lots of room.... others mark the position of the lower ball joint mount (so as not to screw up the alignment)and then pull the three mounting bolts... whichever are the least rusty is probably the way to go.
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#18
by
Smokey Eddy
on 23 Mar, 2009 02:02
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There was a post on doing this was there not?
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#19
by
jtanguay
on 23 Mar, 2009 12:20
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the best way to do this IMO is to have the wheel raised (you can drive it up on a ramp but be sure to have safety jacks just in case), remove the axle nut and then remove the triple square bolts. you should be able to take the driveshaft out of the flange and lower it and then yank the splines out of the spindle. no messing around!
but yes it is definitely easier to take out by removing the ball joint, but it isn't necessary.
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#20
by
Smokey Eddy
on 23 Mar, 2009 12:38
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Ahh, i want to avoid venturing into territory where removal and reinstall would further damage them or increase wear on already worn parts. I have ramps. I'll do that. Thanks man.
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#21
by
jtanguay
on 23 Mar, 2009 20:09
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i think if you have a spring compressor you can further extend the CV joint if necessary, but i don't think you'll need to. i almost had to use them changing the ball joint on my dads daewoo (car has about 160,000km and the ball join breaks. :roll:) and surprisingly it wasn't the passenger side which gets constantly slammed by pot holes and grates...
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#22
by
Dewey
on 24 Mar, 2009 19:06
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Easiest way i have found to swap axles:
Break loose the big nut with the wheel still on the car and on the ground.
Jack up car.
loosen all the triple square bolts (leaving the tire on gives you or a friend something to hold while loosening the small bolts)
Remove tire. (gives you more room to work)
remove front lower control arm bolt.
Have a friend pull on the knuckle and slide the axle from the hub.
Remove from the car.
Reinstall is just the opposite.
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#23
by
Smokey Eddy
on 25 Mar, 2009 00:20
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Thanks! I'll review all of these when i get my parts.
are any of the bolts torque to yield?
I don't think they are ... no "1/4" turns... just straight torque values yes?
just a quick note, do you all agree that i should do both at the same time? or if only 1 side is making noise and the other side (the short side) doesn't have a torn boot it's likely fine?
100$ is decent change in the pockets of a student. I don't want to spend 100$ just for the sake of having new parts.
Edit: aw what ever i'll just do both. It's probably both making the noise anyways.
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#24
by
jtanguay
on 25 Mar, 2009 10:11
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Thanks! I'll review all of these when i get my parts.
are any of the bolts torque to yield? I don't think they are ... no "1/4" turns... just straight torque values yes?
just a quick note, do you all agree that i should do both at the same time? or if only 1 side is making noise and the other side (the short side) doesn't have a torn boot it's likely fine?
100$ is decent change in the pockets of a student. I don't want to spend 100$ just for the sake of having new parts.
Edit: aw what ever i'll just do both. It's probably both making the noise anyways.
you don't need to do both sides. just the ripped one. it wouldn't be a bad idea to repack the side with the untorn boots though. getting the clamps off can be a pain though.
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#25
by
Smokey Eddy
on 25 Mar, 2009 13:50
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Okay. Thanks
I'll need some axle grease then and lots of it.
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#26
by
jtanguay
on 25 Mar, 2009 14:54
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Okay. Thanks
I'll need some axle grease then and lots of it.
you can buy axle grease that has moly lube in it. highly recommended :wink:
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#27
by
Smokey Eddy
on 25 Mar, 2009 19:41
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what is "moly" anyways
i have some left over from the head studs.
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#28
by
jtanguay
on 25 Mar, 2009 20:52
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what is "moly" anyways
i have some left over from the head studs.
Molybdenum - its used in oils such as lubro moly, etc. to reduce wear. it would be perfect to use it in a high stress area such as the CV joints.
Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) is used as a solid lubricant and an extreme pressure (EP) antiwear agent. It forms strong films on metallic surfaces, and is highly resistant to both extreme temperatures and high pressure, and for this reason, it is a common additive to extreme pressure application greases; in case of a catastrophic failure, the thin layer of molybdenum prevents metal-on-metal contact
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#29
by
Smokey Eddy
on 25 Mar, 2009 21:18
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Oooooooo
so what if you added some to your motor oil?
:O
or is that what synthetic oil is?
