Author Topic: Brake line length '90 Jetta (Read 5609 times)

Jettadoor · « **on:** March 09, 2009, 10:50:39 am »

Hello! Could anyone tell me the length of brake line from the M/C to the valve at the rear axle? Or where I could find the info? It's the line on the driver's side, if it makes any difference.

My rough estimate is between 8-9 feet but I'd rather be sure before buying the new line; once I get the old one off it will be difficult to get back to the parts store to change it!

Also I'm having a spot of bother getting the fitting loose on the M/C and I would think this is not a good place to use heat. The nut no longer resembles a nut! It's been soaking in PB Blaster for a couple of days without any luck. I've had the coolant bottle out of the way and realize that it will be even easier with the brake fluid bottle off, but I'm waiting to have the line in my hand before I disassemble any further.

Once the bottle is out of the way it may be possible to heat but I'm worried about seals in the M/C.

I'd be grateful if someone could set me straight on either of these issues!

Thanks,
Philip.

jtanguay · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2009, 11:34:34 am »

try the stuff from Cdn tire. its Rust Check. i forget the actual name of the product, but it freezes the rust (and the part you spray) so that it shrinks and its wayyy easier to break it free. that stuff works wonders!!! that with PB blaster should get your parts free :wink:

veedubcanuck · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2009, 11:41:29 am »

if the head is rounded and you can't cut the line and use a 6 point socket, then just use vice-grips.

Jettadoor · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2009, 01:55:23 pm »

Thanks to both of you for the quick replies

Vise-grips are what created the mess in the first place!! The teeth were worn a bit. I have brand new VGs now but until I get the reservoir off the M/C I've given up trying! Access is very limited. They are about the only tool that would be of any use at this point!

I like the idea of freezing the nut, I wonder if electronics freeze spray might work?? I could get hold of some of that before I could get to CT for their stuff.

I'll let you know if it works.

Thanks again,
Philip.

Dakotakid · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2009, 05:38:20 pm »

There is a rear brake regulator valve right about under the (imagined) driver's side-rear passenger's butt. It is under the car. The brake line from the master cylinder makes it's junction with this box.

Jettadoor · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2009, 01:09:57 am »

Quote from: "Dakotakid"

There is a rear brake regulator valve right about under the (imagined) driver's side-rear passenger's butt. It is under the car. The brake line from the master cylinder makes it's junction with this box.

Thanks, that's the line I'm wanting to change. Sorry, I said rear axle but I meant the torsion bar thingy that my Haynes manual describes as "the rear axle". (In my case, the driver's side rear passenger is very much 'imagined' since neither the inside nor outside handles will open the door :lol: )

I'd just like to have a better idea of the exact length so I don't end up with too much, or worse, too little! The problem is that the car is jacked up in the yard and I'm sliding around underneath in the ice and snow with my nose rubbing the floor pan trying to measure the thing.

Concerning the 'freeze' stuff, I got hold of a can of FREEZE, made by Asalco, supposed to cool to -51C. The can is nearly empty but there seems to be enough to at least give it a try first thing tomorrow. I'm wondering if it could be used to keep the master cylinder cool while heating the fitting.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Have a good day

Philip.

clbanman · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2009, 03:20:02 am »

I don't know the exact brake line length, but if memory serves me correctly, when I replace my brake lines I used two of the long sections from Canadian Tire's selection for that line.
Also, a small pipe wrench will grip better than vice grips as it gets tighter as you apply force.

steve6 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2009, 06:22:44 pm »

I also had to change one of those lines, if i recall right it was around 86 inches, but i've changed a few others since then and i might be confusing it...

the easiest way is to take it off and measure it, I was able to get two pieces to match up almost perfectly.... went in like butter, good luck. I just had to change main line front to back in a safari van and i'd be happy to replace that line again instead! lol

:lol:

Rabbit TD · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2009, 10:20:48 pm »

Another way to measure it is to get a roll of string and tape one end in place and just keep running the string along the line to each bend holding it in place from bend to bend, mark the end of the string and measure it. The line can be longer than the original, you are probably not going to get it bent exactly the same anyway but just make sure it is snug and not vibratingagainst something or able to get snagged on something and it will be fine. But deffinately take at least one end with a fitting on it with you when you buy your replacement peice, there's a million different sizes and flare types and get a set of line wrenches, they eliminate a lot of the problems taking them apart.

Jettadoor · « **Reply #9 on:** March 17, 2009, 11:28:59 am »

Thanks for all your input

some good advice from everybody!

I finally measured it at about 88 inches and purchased 90 inches from the local jobber. Steeve6's measurement at 86" is encouraging. I couldn't take it off to measure because I can't get the fitting off the MC and also I would not be able to get anywhere to buy the new line.

This whole saga is turning into how to get this fitting off. I tried the FREEZE and it quickly started to freeze the fitting but there was only 2 or 3 seconds of stuff in the can. I then purchased a can of COLDSHOCK by Walter(14$ a can!) and after several 10-20 second applications saw nothing like the cooling effect I got from 2 seconds of FREEZE! It was no help in subsequent efforts to slacken the fitting. My local CT has not heard of Rust Check!

I even bought a pipe-wrench as clbanman suggested, the smallest I could find, but the head is too big to be of any use in this location.

So I thought I'd try some heat. I took off the fluid reservoir and protected everything as best I could with wood stove chimney insulation wool and hand fitted aluminum pie plates!! After several applications of my propane torch lasting what seemed to be an awful long time, I came to the conclusion that I can't get heat into the fitting quickly enough to counteract the dissipation through the aluminum MC.

When I can get the TDI out of the barn (it's still winter here!) I'll be able to disassemble the whole thing during the spring and change the other three rear brake lines while I'm at it; it can only be a matter of time before another one lets go.

I don't do an awful lot of mechanical work compared to some of you but I usually manage to get the better of a stubborn bolt, nut, fitting or whatever. This one has me stumped!

jtanguay · « **Reply #10 on:** March 17, 2009, 11:56:31 am »

if you're replacing the brake lines anyway, why not just cut them and yank the MC out, and then stick it into an oven, and then take the fittings off??? oh yea you'll need to remove the guts of the MC with snap ring pliers...

Jettadoor · « **Reply #11 on:** March 17, 2009, 01:01:25 pm »

Something similar to that will surely happen when I get the 'spare' TDI on the road- I need to get to work! Having the thing on a bench in front of me will give me the upper hand, methinks.

The rears have been done,cylinders, springs, wheel bearings etc. so there's only the MC and front calipers and hoses to do and it should be good for a while. I just need to put it out of commission for a while and take the time to do it proper.

The last couple of days have been almost spring-like, much more pleasant for wrenching outside in the driveway!