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#60
by
jimfoo
on 08 Apr, 2007 08:34
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Just a little rad fact. Did you know that the temp difference between the rad inlet and outlet should only be about 10 degrees? I imagine if the tubes are restricted, you would have a greater drop as it has more time to cool. I found this out when I was looking at my overheating problem. Drove up a big hill, temp @ 230. I got my IR temp gauge, and sure enough, inlet 230, outlet 220.
In a functioning cooling system, the temp is just further down the scale, dictated by the thermostst.
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#61
by
jtanguay
on 20 Apr, 2007 10:31
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well guess what boys... i was able to turn my water pump pulley with my hand today... and the belt does seem kinda shiney...
so i'm going to be changing the belt probably tomorrow, as i think it might take me a little while to do (just tightening the alternator system, theres one bolt way down by the a/c compressor that stopped moving... it seems really seized in there good...)
if it's just a slipping belt, then i will be SUPER happy
and finally be able to take advantage of the a/c
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#62
by
BlackTieTD
on 20 Apr, 2007 11:37
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good to hear jt. doesn't seem too serious.
thanks for the info jimfoo.
i took a break from working on the rabbit as the cold and snow returned. but today its a blistering 20C out. i will likely get back to it shortly....
GO RED WINGS!
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#63
by
jtanguay
on 20 Apr, 2007 20:13
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yea its funny to see that the water pump has less than 45 degrees of belt contact... leaves it very prone to slippage i guess.
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#64
by
BlackTieTD
on 22 Apr, 2007 07:49
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i suppose that's why the tension spec seems so high on that belt. v-belts provide fairly good friction between belt/pulley faces relative to their size and considering that they are not toothed. a lot of people say that about the contact angle but it's never been a concern for me. some day i'll work on the numbers on that.......... :lol: not today its effin beautiful outside. i'm goin for a drive.
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#65
by
jtanguay
on 22 Apr, 2007 20:42
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well i changed my belt... old one looks really shiney! maybe i didn't tighten the belt enough but the temp still creeps up too high for me...
i also had a chance to spin the water pump... it's making a nice squeek so the bearings are shot... i also noticed that the old belt must have either been worn down to hell, or too big... the belt i bought was so tight, that even when it was at the shortest point of travel on the adjustment, i still had to turn the key to get it to fit!
i will try tightening it a bit more and see what happens. my worst fear is that the water pump grenades like the one in our van did... now it does seem to be cooler around town if that's worth anything... but when i'm driving hard it still creeps up. i am also noticing some sort of drag on the motor... maybe thats the water pump finally doing its job :oops: :roll:
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#66
by
BlackTieTD
on 23 Apr, 2007 06:36
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so the bearings on the current waterpump are squeeling? man i'd just pull that thing off there and put a new one on. its really a simple job. check out those pics i took, its as simple as that.
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#67
by
burn_your_money
on 23 Apr, 2007 08:21
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I'd definitly get that replaced quickly as well. Nothing worse then being stranded somewhere because of a problem that you were going to fix later
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#68
by
jtanguay
on 23 Apr, 2007 10:39
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aw man... i've got a TDI that will be complete in the next few weeks... maybe my water pump will survive long enough...
just a quick question... if i do change the water pump on this motor, it won't be the full housing, thats for sure... do i still need to remove the a/c compressor to get at it? i almost feel tempted to take the motor out and do it that way... :lol:
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#69
by
jtanguay
on 23 Apr, 2007 13:09
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thinking about this issue more... it seems as though the belt stretching and tightening has worn out the bearings on the wp... because i had issues with the alternator pulley flying off due to an overtightened belt... probably a crappy tire special... :roll:
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#70
by
jtanguay
on 23 Apr, 2007 20:09
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well i've made my decision... going with the good ol crappy tire thermostat as a temporary band aid until the TDI is ready to take its place. i may consider changing the wp itself... if i do however, it will only be the pump and not the housing (not because i'm cheap)
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#71
by
BlackTieTD
on 24 Apr, 2007 10:51
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if the WP is squeeking and you are doing the thermo anyway, a cheapie WP is only about 40 bucks. main issue is the AC or whatever in the way, not sure how easy it is to get to the bolts then. there's probably a way.
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#72
by
jtanguay
on 24 Apr, 2007 13:36
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yea... this is such a PITA... i think i will spring for the crappy tire special WP and just do it! i'm definitely re-using the not even a year old coolant though... :roll:
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#73
by
BlackTieTD
on 25 Apr, 2007 06:38
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i found it wasn't worth the hassle to re-use the coolant. i have 'natural rust preventatives' (see also: oil) on my engine, and so unless you clean the general area around hose connections and such, the oil finds a way to slightly contaminate the coolant. i also do this type of work without a jack or anything, just on the ground since there is plenty of room.
basically it would be a big piss off to try to re-use it so i just bite the bullet and pay the $7 per fill ($14 a jug, takes a 1/2 jug per fill -- you don't have to drain the entire engine of coolant).
this really isn't a bad job once you've run through it once. just go step by step and let us know if you have any problems. send me a PM if you want.
things to get:
WP (sans housing) $40
gasket, 2 o rings (should come with WP) free
belt (the one spec'ed for my motor was too long??? i ended up going back and getting a 38 incher that had the same belt profile) $12
coolant $14/2
dealership thermostat, $28
nice weather, free
i'd test the thermo in a pot of boiling water. just toss it in there, come back when its near boil and it should have popped open. i would also recommend drilling a small hole in it (1/8"??). in my experience the main hassle was getting the thermostat to open. i still have that gutted thermo in my car. do whatever you can to purge air pockets and make sure the thermo is opening so you aren't stuck wondering after you go through all the work.
despite all this BSing, believe me, not a huge deal once you get going. just hope that AC doesn't cause a problem.....
g/l jt.
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#74
by
jtanguay
on 25 Apr, 2007 13:23
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thanks for all the help! the a/c with the duracool refrigerant is pretty good. i wouldn't expect the compressor to last too long, but we'll see.
i'm pretty sure the goof who changed the belt previously put on an oversized belt, and then adjusted the tensioning system right to the end, along with the alternator adjustment right to the end... i'm sure that's why it looked like my wp pulley had 30 degrees or so of belt coverage... and probably why the belt is all glazed, and my wp is making weird squeeks..
i will definitely try the thermostat in some boiling water, but i will just end up re-using it since it was new a year ago. from my tests it seems to open right on the dot 87C. (thermometer in the expansion tank)
just pisses me off a bit though... i'd love to finish the m-TDI and throw that in, and then replace the WP, and tighten everything up accordingly with the engine outside of the car.. maybe clean it up before i sell it too!