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#30
by
Rabbit TD
on 11 Mar, 2009 01:37
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well, i guess good news is relative at this point,
but my timing is all fine.
Camshaft lock drops in,
and then my 7/16" socket drops right in its hole, in the pulley
and the flywheel was 5mm off until I bumped it, and then it is perfect.
Therefore, We go inside the cylinder... (thats right, you guys are coming with me!!)
I just dropped 53 Willys a line about the whiz-bang MLS gasket for my motor.
Also seemingly banging my head against a wall to get the ARPs for under $130. Ill pull the trigger on those soon.
The worst sentence I ever say is "while we are there"...
I said that about my 1974 VW thing about 5 years ago (needed floorpans), and I plan to take it off the rotisserie this summer. (but in my defense, I work 50-70 hrs/wk consistently, and then also play with vws)
-Brad
I got mine at Summit Racing at Christmas for around $100 I believe it was. Probably one of the best things you can get for these motors and their gasket problems.
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#31
by
Jettagli16v
on 11 Mar, 2009 10:43
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Thanks, Ill try summit.
-Brad
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#32
by
Jettagli16v
on 12 Mar, 2009 11:09
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Well, I just bought the ARPs from Summit.
Just the head studs.
I will wait to see how deep down the rabbit hole I go on this,
before considering rod bolts, or mains.
Next thing is HG.
I am waffling on getting the one 53Willys had made,
or just AAZ...
I can get a new Victor Reinz AAZ gasket at $37...
(all of those are MLS, right?)
-Brad
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#33
by
Jettagli16v
on 12 Mar, 2009 12:12
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Also,
I have access to a 1.6 NA longblock,
but am unable to find all of the differences between NA and TD in the 1.6.
I know the Oil squirters are not present on the NA,
but I know the CR is also the same..
Are the squirters the only difference?
(and I thought you could retrofit squirters with a lil machining to the block)
If that is the case, I may buy the motor, and send that head out to have it checked and reworked, just to expedite things.
Head hopefully comes off today!
Thanks!
-Brad
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#34
by
jtanguay
on 12 Mar, 2009 12:31
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Also,
I have access to a 1.6 NA longblock,
but am unable to find all of the differences between NA and TD in the 1.6.
I know the Oil squirters are not present on the NA,
but I know the CR is also the same..
Are the squirters the only difference?
(and I thought you could retrofit squirters with a lil machining to the block)
If that is the case, I may buy the motor, and send that head out to have it checked and reworked, just to expedite things.
Head hopefully comes off today!
Thanks!
-Brad
apparently the crank is a little bit stronger on the TD, but the later hydraulic versions might just use the same crank in both N/A & TD. drilling the oil squirters isn't really that simple, but would be a solution to your problem. at that point you might as well just punch out your block and install new pistons & rings.
i still think that your sealing issue has to do with the valves... so a little bit of head work, and then you're off to the races.
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#35
by
Jettagli16v
on 12 Mar, 2009 15:47
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That is my second best scenario..
I would love to leave the block alone,
and have a very good cylinder head guy locally.
Anyone upgrade the valvetrain on the mechanical lifter engine?
I know the mech head is the revver of the two, and I know
Techtonics makes some stuff for the mech. head.
-Brad
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#36
by
jtanguay
on 12 Mar, 2009 19:00
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That is my second best scenario..
I would love to leave the block alone,
and have a very good cylinder head guy locally.
Anyone upgrade the valvetrain on the mechanical lifter engine?
I know the mech head is the revver of the two, and I know
Techtonics makes some stuff for the mech. head.
-Brad
don't know if you can really upgrade it, but i'd imagine for a nominal price, anythings possible :lol:. one thing i'd recommend with your engine is running something like ZDDP or lubro moly's anti wear additive. that should keep the lifters fresh and in spec for longer. best part about those engines is the power they make, and the fact that the valves don't stick. worse thing is the noise, and the maintenance. maybe in the future i'll switch over.
so fingers crossed that you have a blown head gasket and or leaking valves (much cheaper than getting a whole new block)
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#37
by
Jettagli16v
on 12 Mar, 2009 21:47
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Well,
I pulled the head, and saw......
Nothing major!
(I kind of wish I could see the issue!)
The head bolts felt as though they required slightly uneven force to remove.
The pistons look great, and cylinder walls on 2&3 are great! (I'm too tired to turn the bottom end over tonight and look at 1&4)
All of the valves seemed to drop down flat, the cam turns smoothly,
Typical tiny cracks between the valves, consistent with pics I have seen here.
I did however, find a bunch of small metal shavings in the low spots in the head...
Anyone hazard a guess?
Now I will try to get the head stripped (maybe tomorrow)
and get it to the head shop as soon as I can (Mon or Tues)...
Hopefully they can find something!
Any other things to look for?
Sorry, I wish I could post pics, but my camera seems to have no flash now.
Thanks!
-Brad
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#38
by
jtanguay
on 12 Mar, 2009 23:02
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pics would really help. how does the head gasket look? are there any gaps in the metal rings?
make sure to have the head pressure tested and checked for flatness. if it passes both of those tests, then it should be good aside from guides/seals.
if you have a feeler gauge that would be beneficial in determining the piston to wall clearance. that way we can see if your engine is within spec. this is a great time to refresh the motor with new piston rings. doing so will also determine whether you have a broken ring or not as well. a good way to squeeze some extra life out of an old motor
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#39
by
Jettagli16v
on 12 Mar, 2009 23:53
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if the head is not trashed, and just needs resurfacing,
or maybe some exhaust valves,
Ill likely do new Valve stem seals,
new rings and Rod bearings (leave the crank and block in the car)
And along with the ARPs and whatever I can figure out for metal HG,
(have not yet heard back from 53 Willys to see if his HG is up and running)
I should have a pretty decent package for reasonably short monies.
(Any other stuff I should do while I am here?)
Ill work on pictures.
Try to take some during the day.
And ill borrow or buy a feeler gauge and we can see whats what on the bottom end.
I know I also need to measure piston protrusion now so I can get the HG on the way.
Thanks again,
-Brad
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#40
by
Jettagli16v
on 13 Mar, 2009 20:03
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#41
by
jtanguay
on 13 Mar, 2009 21:16
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is it me or does that look like theres some nasty ring ridge there? and the HG does look a little suspect in this case... do you have a feeler gauge, or a caliper gauge to test the bores?
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#42
by
Jettagli16v
on 13 Mar, 2009 21:21
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There is a slight "ring ridge"
if by that you mean a little ridge in the cylinder, probably about where the oil ring stops at full travel.
It is very slight to the feel, but I know that can be significant when multiplied by two
I am trying to get my hands on a caliper to measure the bores.
A feeler gauge I can easily get for cheap, so Ill try to get one.
Thanks!
-Brad
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#43
by
Jettagli16v
on 13 Mar, 2009 23:25
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I will be able to clean it and make it look much better, but I am confident there is a perceptible ridge in the metal, and it is not just buildup.
Working on getting a Micrometer...
so much money spent on tools so far! (and I havent even gotten deep tool-wise, yet)
I guess the cost effective thing to do is keep it forever!
-Brad
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#44
by
Jettagli16v
on 13 Mar, 2009 23:37
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I got the head stripped down except for the cam,
and Ill be dropping it off at the Cylinder head shop Monday.
Man, that thing is dirty!
If the head is keepable, Ill be looking to do valve stem seals and guides,
and whatever else it needs.
If it is badly damaged, I would love to look for an AAZ head.
Put big valves in it, and have it extrude honed....
but I digress.
more later,
Brad
