Karl,Thanks for joining in!! I've not added a oil pressure gauge so I can't say how it is. I've been waiting til I can afford to add a pair of dual sweep gauges to cover the vitals. I cleaned the pump really good when I installed it, however, it was the pump that came with the pan and etc. from England. Would this allow oil into the cylinders? re. 'bluish' smokeWhen you saw this did it get resolved? If so, how?Michael
Snap, I was looking for that gauge as you posted. Possible to clean the relief valve? Or is that the end of it?Where would you buy the new pump? Hadn't looked for them in a while but remember they were pricey. MICHAEL
If I understand your description correctly we see this same behavior on IDI engines sometimes as well... on my old Rabbit truck it expressed itself as running ruff, lots of white smoke, power issues, until you gave it 30 seconds to smarten up. When it happened I found I could "hurry up" how quickly it smartened up by popping the clutch and stepping on the throttle... engine would cough, spit, complain, and then even out and rev up. Foot off the accelerator and all was right with the world until the next time the engine was stone cold.My theory at the time was one or more injectors that spray poorly at cold temperatures, yet fine at room temperature on the workbench. 30 seconds seems about the right amount of time for something to warm up and make the problem go away... and the only fuel-related something I could see warming up in 30 seconds is the injectors themselves.My current IDI doesn't do this... but the next time I find one I'm gonna pop-test the injectors after they've been in the freezer overnight... and then again at room temperature.
What's the cold oil pressure? I've seen the oil pump relief valve stick and cause too much oil pressure to pump the cam followers up to a point where the valves start to hang open, = loss of some compression and gobs of smoke, will eventually sort itself out and disappear when warm.