T3 rebuilding, need help/advice

[flapjack]

This is as far as I got last nite. After taking off the compressor wheel and knocking off the round piece behind it, I had to leave the garage.
Anything I should keep in mind?
What is the next step?
I literally didn't touch anything after knocking that round piece off, do those parts just slide off the shaft?
Thanks

[dieselherb1]

Did you get a rebuild kit yet? Where?

[flapjack]

Did you get a rebuild kit yet? Where?

Yes, i can post a pic if like

G-Pop Shop
22349 W War Eagle Rd
Springdale, AR 72764
Ph: 479-751-7966
Fax: 479-717-2211

http://www.gpopshop.com/contactus.html

[flapjack]

Is the k24 similar enough to rebuild?

http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13357

[dillenger1]

mine where a b#### to.they are suspose to slide on ,but they corode with time.Mine took 2 weeks of heat and PB.I got it off by securing the cartridge and tapping the comp. side of the shaft with the old nut on the end.the dynamic seal will bottom out on the cartridge ,then all tapping will slide the seal off.

[zukgod1]

Your going down the correct path. I will try to post up more later when I'm not on my phone.

[flapjack]

andrew:  far side is a capped male water connection and near side is open female water connection, so no sealing surfaces were harmed in the making of this documentary

so when everything is pulled off from the compressor side, the shaft slides out on the turbine side?

[dillenger1]

yep,once that seals off it should slide out.

[subsonic]

Did you get the instructions from g-pop with the kit?  If not I have them posted on here somewhere.

[flapjack]

They may have sent me directions, I bought the kit a year ago
Is this what you posted?? :

INSTRUCTIONS:

The first step in rebuilding your turbo is marking your turbine housing and compressor housing in relationship to the bearing center section. You can do this with paint, a punch, etc...This will ensure, once you are finished rebuilding the turbo, that it will bolt directly back up to your engine.

The next step: remove the turbine housing bolts that hold the turbine housing to the center section, there will either be 4 or 6 13mm bolts. Next, remove the 6, 1/2" or 13mm bolts that hold the compressor housing to the backing plate.

Then place the turbo's turbine nut into a vice holding it firmly, the nut is odd-shaped because of balancing, but you can normally get two sides in the vice. Mark the turbine shaft with paint on the blade that lines up with the oil drain of the center section. Next, mark the compressor wheel to the backing plate with paint, or by lightly scribing a mark on both surfaces.

Remove the 3/8" compressor wheel nut and then remove the compressor wheel. ***Special Note*** Some are left-hand threaded shafts. If turned counter clockwise, it will break the shaft off, turn it clockwise to remove the nut if you see that it is a left-hand thread. With a rubber mallet, lightly tap the threaded turbine shaft to remove it from the bearing center section.

 Once removed, place bearing center section in a vice, holding it firmly by the oil inlet and oil outlet flat surfaces. Now, remove the 4 backing plate bolts. They will either be 10mm or 7/16". With a rubber mallet, lightly tap aluminum backing plate to separate it from the bearing housing.

There are 3 types of compressor seals for the T3's, T4's and T3/T4 hybrid turbos.

-The first one is a one piece carbon seal, this type of seal is pressed into and out of the backing plate as an assembly.
-The second type is a 4-piece carbon seal, this type consists of a carbon seal, o-ring, eared washer, and a spring.

 To remove this type of seal, first pick the black carbon seal out of the backing plate,
next using a pick remove the o-ring,
then turn the earred washer until its ears line up with the stakes in the backing plate,
and finally remove the spring.

When reassembling this type of seal,

first install the spring with the small end down,
next the earred washer, then the o--ring,
and finally the carbon seal.

The last type of seal used in these turbos is the dynamic seal,
this type of seal installs onto the thrust collar,
use a pick to remove it.
To install it press it over the collar with your thumbs until it fits into the groove.


There are also two types of thrust bearings used on T3's, T4's, and T3/T4 hybrid turbos.

One is the standard 270 degree (not a full circle),
if you have this type use a pick and pull the thrust bearing off of the bearing housing.

The other type of thrust bearing is the 360 degree (full circle),
it can be held by 3 allen-head screws, or by the anti-rotation pins in the bearing housing.

To remove it,
either remove the three screws,
or use a pick to pull if off of the anti-rotation pins.

Now, remove the small snap ring holding the front journal bearing in, and use a pick to remove the journal bearing.
Next, turn the bearing center section upside down and remove the rear snap ring and rear journal bearing.

Now, you have almost completely disassembled the turbo.
The last thing you must do on a dynamic seal turbo is remove the piston ring from the thrust collar,
or on a carbon seal turbo, remove the carbon seal , o-ring, washer, and spring from the backing plate.

Now, remove the piston ring from the turbine shaft, and the turbo is disassembled.

***Special Note*** Carefully check all sealing surfaces where piston rings sit when installed.
These surfaces must be smooth and round.

Also, check the grooves that the piston rings sit in on the turbine shaft and the thrust collar. The piston ring must sit in these grooves tightly, with only 0.001 or 0.002 clearance. Any more than this will cause oil leaks.

Another special note:
Journal bearing surfaces and thrust collar surfaces must be completely smooth and have no scratches or nicks that you can feel with your finger nail.

Places to check:
journal bearing bore in the bearing housing,
journal bearing surface on the turbine shaft,
and thrust collar surfaces that touch the thrust bearing.

*One more note:*
 Bearing housing choking is a very common problem with all turbos. It is caused by the turbo not being properly cooled off when the engine is shut off, and/or irregular oil changes.

To check for this problem, look for black carbon deposits throughout the inside of the bearing housing, especially on the rear side where the turbine shaft goes in. The bearing housing should have an open area that you can see light through from the oil drain back to the rear sealing area where the shaft goes in.

If you cannot see through the bearing housing, from these two areas, then you have severe choking and all of this carbon must be removed, or the turbo will fail almost instantly on startup.

Now, completely and thoroughly clean the whole turbo with solvent. It needs to be very clean, this is very, very important. Reverse the procedure above and reassemble the turbo using high quality engine assembly lube on all bearings and sealing surfaces.

**360 Degree thrust bearing installation**
First, install the beveled washer with the beveled side down towards the journal bearing.
Next, place 360 degree thrust bearing on to the bearing housing locating it carefully on the 2 anti-rotation pins.
Lastly, install the thrust collar into the thrust bearing with the piston ring seal facing up.

When torquing the compressor nut, follow this procedure:

On right-hand nuts, tighten the nut hand-tight until it touches the top of the compressor wheel, then turn with a 3/8" wrench approximately 1/4 of a turn.

If this is a left-handed thread, tighten the nut down hand-tight until it touches the top of the compressor wheel. Then, using a 3/8" wrench, tighten the nut approximately 1/8 of a turn. This will properly torque the nut and seat the bearings and thrust parts.

On right-hand nuts, tighten the nut hand-tight until it touches the top of the compressor wheel, then turn with a 3/8" wrench approximately 1/4 of a turn.

Jim & Gerry
G-Pop Shop
Specializing in Rebuilt, Polished Turbos
& Turbocharger Parts

[subsonic]

Score!

[flapjack]

After taking out the retaining ring, the shaft slid out with just a little pressure by hand
Here's a bunch of pictures, all taken by my 4 year old

Does crud like this build up quickly?  The turbo was on a gas car for most of its life
Only on the diesel for a few hours

[jtanguay]

that looks pretty nasty... but of course it isn't unusual for a high mileage vehicle.

[flapjack]

Found some cracks and some welds that weren't ground down, keeping the wastegate from closing completely. Cleaned it a little, took some off with a file, thinking it was silver solder, but it isn't.  Considered milling it, but I think between setup and cutting, I may be better off just putting some sandpaper on a flat surface and doing it by hand.

Doesn't look like a big deal to me. Anybody think differently?

[flapjack]

went to a buddy's house and used his cabinet to bead blast some parts.
didn't go nuts, just gave it a quick once over. The center cartridge had the most rust



opened the rebuild kit I got from gpop. Everything matches except for two extra parts.
Anyone know where these two extra rings go?
They were packed with the ring that seals the shaft near the turbine.
One ring matches the ring that came out of groove #1, but groove #2 was empty.