Diesel Engine run away

[A Guy]

I'm over 1000K with no runaway
I have noticed though , when I pull up the hose that I have running from the valve cover vent to have a peek that there's a good coating of oil.  :?
Why is the oil there.  THere should be mostly if not completely vapours escaping that hose.  I get some good drips on the ground every time I park.  I figure that the fix stated above with the ABS plastic housing and steel wool will keep the problem solved but it seems to be a "bandaid" fix compared to actually "fixxing" the problem.  Is this possible without too much headache or cut knuckles?
Out!
Greg

[toomanycars]

Mate, the only way to fix it is to rebuild the motor! New rings or rebore, depending on how bad it is. Venting will only improve breathing and stop so much of the oil being drawn into the air intake. My Golf's modified breathing has lasted me for months now and is still OK....But I know I'll have to rebuild eventually. (I have the parts waiting!)

[A Guy]

Ya,  That's what I figured.  Will I have to overbore or will I be able to simply hone the cylendars?  Hopefully she'll hold out 'till spring when I do my SVO conversion.  CAN"T WAIT :!:    
Thanks for the info guys.
I wish I could get my hands on one of those Nissan Patrols.  I have a Pathy but it's a pig on fuel and has the aerodynamics of a brick.  Needless to say since I got my hands on this little VW it seeing practically no road time.  I know she's sad :lol:
Out!
Greg

[Hammy]

I agree totally with "toomanycars", this sounds like a clear case of bad rings. I had a similar problem on my 1.6D, oil would pour out of the dipstick tube, and if I removed the oil filler cap while the engine was running it would nearly blow it out of my hand, from all of the cylinder pressure leaking past the rings into the crankcase (oilpan) and causing excessive pressure in the crankcase ventilation system.
 
 I hope this helps alittle A-GUY. I think by removing your crankcase ventilation hose, from your intake manifold, you have stopped the engine from running on your blowby(excessive oil vapours), but as you are seeing, it's leaving oil spewed wherever you have allowed it to vent to. It's going to come out until you fix the real problem, which is likely the rings.

 I have seen however, a cylinderhead do this, where the combustion pressure leaked past the ring of the headgasket into the oil gallery, because a small piece of the cylinderhead was chipped or blown out, not allowing the headgasket to seal properly.

 Good luck A_GUY, hope this helps a little bit.

[fatmobile]

Remember to watch your oil level.
 The oil that used to get burnt is still leaving the engine.
 On my runaways it went through alot of oil.

[A Guy]

So I'm over 2000 K's w/no run away.  The probolem is I seem to be going though more oil.  I'm thinking rings etc. but on two different occassions I went though my oevrflow of coolant.  Now I was driving a little faster than normal130+.  I saw someone mention the head gasket could be causing  the prob with the oil and this would make the loss of coolant make some scence.   :? Coments Please.  
I'm also leaning towards do the fifth gear change as I am interested in prologing the life of this engine and I do 70% of my driving at highway speed.  The car seems best at 110km/h.  This is hard to do as I often need to sit around 120 and sometimes a little higher .  How much of an RPM drop will I get with this conversion.  (I think it's larger by 7/100ths)  And finally, is it relly a 2-3 hour job?  I asked a lot here.  Sorry if i should have started another topic.  Let me know.  Newbie and all Thanks in advance group
Out!
Greg

[A Guy]

Well I had time to do the can with steel wool fix.     Pretty straight forward.  That is untill I was on the highway this morning when the golf ran away again :evil: .  I was able to stop it and realised the minute it happened that I had the in at the top and the out at the bottom and realised the errors of my ways :twisted: .  Swithched the hoses up on the side of the road and I swear it runs better :? .  I'm sure it's just me but I'll get a better idea on the way home.  
Out!
Greg

[houseofdiesel]

Well I hate to burst you bubble but there is NO WAY your car is going to start in December...you should it fix now before the winter while there is still a chance. Used motors are plentiful in this area under $500. You could swap your trans while your at it too. I had a problem with oil leaking out not runaway (too much pressure for the silly little hose) I would not start below -15C without a block heater. I rerouted the hose but starting was an issue. Nothing more frustrating then a car that won't start without power! Thankfully hills are plentiful were I worked last winter. I scrapped the car as soon as I could find a replacement. Your not doing the enviroment any favour leaking out all that oil either.
Greg

[A Guy]

Thanks House of Diesel.  
Is there a way of determining if I just need new rings and not reboring?  The rings I'm not worried about doing but I don't have the experience to rebore.  I know there are attachments for drills that will do the job but I also know if it's not the right pattern I'll be S.O.L.  
I'm very leary of used engines mostly from experience.  I would prefer a minor rebuild and then get a few hundred k out of this little misser.  Plus I will be converting to VO.  I thought after Christmas when business slows down would be the best time but now with these frick'n prices I might do before our Christams season.    

What Trans would you suggest concidering I have a N/A 1.6.  I have a jetta I can pull parts off of and it has a good GTI trans in it but I figured the gearing would be too high for this little engine to move.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.  I would ideally preffer a lower rpm so I can travel faster on the highway without putting too much strain on the engine.  
BTW even with this "fix" I still get the occasional case runaway - each day -  at leat each way to and from work - still only above 120km/h - only on the highway.  

Can someone give me a parts list to call for ie.  rings, head gasket, pan gasket etc.  

Out!
Greg

[A Guy]

Thanks House of Diesel.  
Is there a way of determining if I just need new rings and not reboring?  The rings I'm not worried about doing but I don't have the experience to rebore.  I know there are attachments for drills that will do the job but I also know if it's not the right pattern I'll be S.O.L.  
I'm very leary of used engines mostly from experience.  I would prefer a minor rebuild and then get a few hundred k out of this little misser.  Plus I will be converting to VO.  I thought after Christmas when business slows down would be the best time but now with these frick'n prices I might do before our Christams season.    

What Trans would you suggest concidering I have a N/A 1.6.  I have a jetta I can pull parts off of and it has a good GTI trans in it but I figured the gearing would be too high for this little engine to move.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.  I would ideally preffer a lower rpm so I can travel faster on the highway without putting too much strain on the engine.  
BTW even with this "fix" I still get the occasional case runaway - each day -  at leat each way to and from work - still only above 120km/h - only on the highway.  

Can someone give me a parts list to call for ie.  rings, head gasket, pan gasket etc.  

Out!
Greg

[fspGTD]

Thanks House of Diesel.  
Is there a way of determining if I just need new rings and not reboring?  The rings I'm not worried about doing but I don't have the experience to rebore.  I know there are attachments for drills that will do the job but I also know if it's not the right pattern I'll be S.O.L.

The "by the book" way to determine if an overbore is needed is to remove the head and do some measuring of the cylinder wall taper, piston wear, and piston-cylinder bore clearance, and also inspecting the cylinder walls at this time for any critical or unusual wear.  If the bores are excessively worn, a re-bore with new oversized pistons is in order.  However, a lot of folks buy a little extra time for their motors with a quickie re-ring job, which can be accomplished at home leaving the block installed in the chassis.

Boring cannot be done by a DIY mechanic at home; it's generally an operation that gets farmed out to a machinist with the specialized boring equipment.

If you are just replacing the rings, you need to "deglaze" the cylinder walls to get the new rings to seat in and to seal.  This can be done with the block still installed in the chassis and a hand drill deglazing attachment.

[A Guy]

What kind of "down time" am I looking at.  I have all tools with the exception if a set of ring expanders.  
Thanks,
Greg

[fatmobile]

Most of the time I see rings that are sloppy in the piston grooves.
 Which means time for new pistons ... bigger pistons and a rebore.

[A Guy]

I talked to my parts supplier and he said that it was a complete waste of time just doing the rings.  He said crank bearing rings gaskets crank pulley(it's due) etc.  What gives?   Is he trying to soak me or is this info true?  I need some solid advice as I am currently stumped.

[fspGTD]

To re-ring your motor, you're going to have to remove the rods from the crank.  It is not much extra cost to replace your crankshaft bearings at that point with new ones, although if the engine's ever been rebuilt you will need to order the proper thickness bearings (the thickness is printed on the backs of the bearings).  How is your oil pressure?  If it is not up to par, you might as well inspect your thrust bearing (get feeler gauge set for this) while you've got the pan and oil pump removed.  You can also check your oil pump gear backlash and end play if it does.  Specs are given in Bentley.  (You do have a bentley manual by now don't you?  Don't even consider doing this job without one!)  Replace a worn out oil pump with a new one.  Also if you suspect excessive main bearing clearances, you can check those with plastigage once you've got the oil pan off.  You'll definitely need to replace the head bolts, head gasket (with proper thickness), valve cover gasket (unless you already upgraded to reusable rubber version), and oil pan gasket (unless already upgraded to reusable rubber version.)

You'll want to change the manifold to head gaskets for any manifolds (intake or exhaust) you end up removing from the head.  Removing at least the unweildy NA diesel intake manifold will make the head easier to lift off and onto the block.  It is also not much additional work to replace the timing belt and tensioner if they could use it, when you have the head off as well.  As for other seals and gaskets to replace... you got oil leaks that need fixing?  If not, you're probably OK leaving your cam seals, main seals, etc undisturbed.  You'll also need to set timing on your camshaft and your diesel injection pump after you put the head back on the block.