Just got my IP pump re-sealed and replaced the cold start cable on a '81 1.6L NA. I'm I the only one that can't find the "arrow" referred to in the Bentley in Fig 6-14 which states to " move lever as indicated by arrow".
Also there appears to be a stop tab for the bottom of the lever but the cable is not long enough to be clamped by the pivot pin clamp screw when the lever is against the stop.
Right now I have the cable installed with about a 3/16" gap between the lever and the stop tab with the knob pushed all the way in on the dash.
What is the proper adjustment ?
Everything I've read indicates that the cold start cable adjustment must be correct before timing the IP.
Pull on the cable from inside the engine bay. If you still can't get enough length out of the cable to get it thru the eyelet when the lever is at the forward (pass side) stop, then your cable is too short. You'd be better off leaving it disconnected than connecting it with the lever somewhere in the middle of its range of motion.
If you set your pump timing to 1.00mm, the cable becomes obsolete anyways (at least on pumps without the idle boost that came on cars to 1986).
so quick quick hijack. Say i have a 91 pump on an n/a.
And I have it timed too 1.00mm does this mean my cold start lever is obsolete as well?
Also for the adjustment of the start valve.. it sits in geooves when it is fully oen and closed.. you can't sit it in the middle or the spring closes it. Set it so you can make it get to the upper groove by pulling it, and getting back to the other groove by pushing it in.
so quick quick hijack. Say i have a 91 pump on an n/a.
And I have it timed too 1.00mm does this mean my cold start lever is obsolete as well?
Well, yes and no. In my experience, when you advance the static timing to 1.00mm, there is little affect on how a cold car runs when the cable is pulled out. I have noticed this on several old Rabbits. When the timing is set to .80mm, then yes, pulling the cable will clear up smoke and make the car/truck run smoother. But, when set to 1.00mm, there's no difference at all.
Now, on 1987-1997 mechanical IDI engines, the cold start also serves to pull up the RPMs. There is a separate lever attached to the cold-start lever which does this. This is a nice feature for cars with AC, as turning on the AC often makes the RPMs drop, and the engine rattle a bit more. From what I gather, some AAZ motors had an electrical valve that served the same purpose.
I noticed that when I start the engine when it has sat in the garage which holds a pretty constant 4-5 celsius, it will sputter and stuff without pulling the cable but with it it will not sputter, and fires more evenly and runs smoother right off the line. And then after it has warmed up when i release the cold start valve the idle goes down significantly. Why would you have an engine timed to .80mm? would the large retardation do some sort of advantage for the engine?
I noticed that when I start the engine when it has sat in the garage which holds a pretty constant 4-5 celsius, it will sputter and stuff without pulling the cable but with it it will not sputter, and fires more evenly and runs smoother right off the line. And then after it has warmed up when i release the cold start valve the idle goes down significantly. Why would you have an engine timed to .80mm? would the large retardation do some sort of advantage for the engine?
retarding the timing reduces things like NOx, noise, idle fuel consumption (subjective), and quite possibly engine wear.
however, retarding the timing will also make it harder to start the motor when cold... which is why it is nice to have the cold start advance mechanism :wink:
Thanks Quantum TD. Have no problem leaving the cable disconnected. Down here in central Texas it rarely gets cold enough to be needed. Was just trying to get it back to OEM condition.
Just to be clear . . Top of lever pointed fully towards the passenger side with the bottom of the lever resting against the stop ?
Thanks Quantum TD. Have no problem leaving the cable disconnected. Down here in central Texas it rarely gets cold enough to be needed. Was just trying to get it back to OEM condition.
Just to be clear . . Top of lever pointed fully towards the passenger side with the bottom of the lever resting against the stop ?
Yep. If you've never noticed a difference with it pulled out, your timing is probably advanced enough.
Do you think someone may have fooled with your cable (i.e. cut it)? If you need a replacement cable, I have one for a Rabbit, or for a Golf/Jetta II.
I have noticed that when I reinstall the cables after reseals that there seems to be less cable, but there is always enough to slip it in there when the lever is all the way to the pass side stop.