Does anyone think blocked piston oil jet (due to sloppy head gasket replacement) could cause overheating of the cylinders and contribute to head gasket troubles?I have noticed much higher temps around the pre-combustion chambers/ glow plugs compared to the rest of the block. A difference of 90C on the block compared with 105C sometimes at the glow plugs. The hottest measured temp being at the base of the head. I have mentioned this before but found no explanation so far. To me there should be a higher temp in the area but not that high.The implications of this is that if the surface is that temperature the coolant must be higher. If the coolant reaches that temp at idle (I measured at idle) what happens at speed? And could it produce enough boiled bubbles that it could fill the rad or cause an air block of the oil cooler?This might be a condition of higher mileage engines only and might not be as dramatic in newer engines.
Hello, first post.It is my observation that this cannot be a cracked block because of the following. If the block is cracked you will absolutely have intermix. When you shut the engine down the 12-15 psi of coolant will force its way through the crack and run right into the crank case. The same is generally true with a cracked head.However if the block deck is not flat, or if the machine shop surfaced the head improperly, you could get a situation where either the combustion gasses bypass under compression, or because of poor "clamping" which not only refers to the head fasteners, the head can actually lift under heavy pressures allowing gasses to bypass into the coolant. Now the reason you may not get intermix is because when you shut the engine down the head has enough "clamp" to keep the 13 psi of coolant where it belongs.When I first read this post the first thing I thought of was the simplest, maybe there was an unbled air pocket in the system, but it seems head gasket, head and block surface are also good possibilities.BlueMule'86 Golf TD
QuoteHello, first post.It is my observation that this cannot be a cracked block because of the following. If the block is cracked you will absolutely have intermix. When you shut the engine down the 12-15 psi of coolant will force its way through the crack and run right into the crank case. The same is generally true with a cracked head.However if the block deck is not flat, or if the machine shop surfaced the head improperly, you could get a situation where either the combustion gasses bypass under compression, or because of poor "clamping" which not only refers to the head fasteners, the head can actually lift under heavy pressures allowing gasses to bypass into the coolant. Now the reason you may not get intermix is because when you shut the engine down the head has enough "clamp" to keep the 13 psi of coolant where it belongs.When I first read this post the first thing I thought of was the simplest, maybe there was an unbled air pocket in the system, but it seems head gasket, head and block surface are also good possibilities.BlueMule'86 Golf TDHello BlueMule, welcome to the board and thank you for your response. I also agree with you logic and believe the problem must be to a untrue block deck surface. The head was machined by a reputable engine builder and was flat and new head bolts were used. The only thing we did not check is the if the block deck was flat with a straight edge. But what would cause a cast diesel block to suddenly warp or become untrue. And if i take the head off and find that the block deck is bad, how can i machine the deck in the car. Could it be block sanded flat?
some head gasket material can actually buildup on the block deck. you need to scrape it clean before putting the head on if you want it to seal properly. you might get away without following that step, but not always.
So just a technical note: Since I am driving everyday, most of the day and I am now geeking out about the cooling of these crazy machines, I have been playing with getting the optimum temperatures. It seems like an orifice, to the expansion tank, just over 3/8" is right to control the stat so the expn. tank temp effects the stat with the most cooling with the least lag time. Disclaimer: under the conditions I am working with.... new rad, AAZ engine, Van and it's weight. I had a 3/8 line before and that proved to be too small. 1/2" is too big (too much diversion of coolant from the rad). My temperatures are being measured from the by-pass while driving and range from 87degC to 94C on a long hill at highway speed.Oh hey... did you know how much the heater effects the engine temperature and how?If you are over heating because of this wrong temperature in the expansion tank thing and you use your heater you are sure to see an increase in engine temps while trying to cool it down. The reason is that cool water returning from the heater blows over the thermostat cooling(closing) it causing the engine temperature to go up. I think they did this to get more heat to the heater in the winter. This is a good test too to see if this might be your trouble. If you over heating while your heater is on but not when it's off you might consider increasing the temp in the expansion tank. A few degrees C increase is fine but not if your temps are too high to start with.
Also you said you put a pressure gauge in the cooling system, what were the readings??