Author Topic: AAZ Questions - Need Advise / Input (Read 7597 times)

DonkeyWorx · « **Reply #15 on:** January 23, 2009, 09:17:01 am »

I guess my whole point is this:

- I believe the fuel screw has never been moved.
- I believe the Boost has never been increased.
- I believe this is a STOCK 1.9TD with 68K miles.

With that sad, I am quite surprised I am seeing the higher EGT's and some black smoke (which I believe is MORE than normal) when I REV the engine (not in gear, standing still).

One would think that a stock 1.9 TD running at stock boost (10-12psi K14) and a rebuilt IP (that SHOULD be all setup in the stock position, with no Mods) would act a bit different than the results I am seeing.

But hey, I guess this is the fun part right - tuning her up and dialing her in.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 23, 2009, 09:30:58 am »

Lets not forget its not designed to move around a lifted box either.

It was designed to move around a what 1500lb car?

Your not going to be able to leave the settings in your application.

But ya your correct, messing with it and fine tuning it for what you want is one of the MAJOR attractions to these cars..

DonkeyWorx · « **Reply #17 on:** January 23, 2009, 05:25:20 pm »

1/23/2009
Update:

I have increased my boost so that it maxes out around 17 PSI. Very nice by the way.

So I drove the sidekick around today to run some errands. When on the highway, running around 55 Mph (RPM still not known) she is running about 900 or under EGT post turbo. This would be driving on flat ground to small inclines. Downhill of course she will drop down to 700 - 800.

I do have one question for some of you running PRE TURBO EGT Senders.
At idle, say sitting in your drive way with the engine at full heat operating temperature (all warmed up) - What does your EGT gauge read? Yes, just at idle sitting there.

Thanks,

Val

mud and diesel · « **Reply #18 on:** January 23, 2009, 05:36:23 pm »

Donkyworx, you say that it puffs black smoke when revving the engine in neutral, whats it like at full throttle in say 3rd or 4th (mate following behind perhaps?) i would say a small puff of black smoke when you blip the throttle is normal, but if you get black smoke when under load at full boost then your overfueling, anything more than a light gray haze is going to build egts fast. Ive got a front mount on mine and it made a noticable difference in performance and temps, ive also got a top mount large thermostaticly controlled oil cooler, with a subaru bonnet vent to direct air through it, my oil temp sits at 80c and never goes above 90c. I cannot recommend these two mods highly enough! a real must on these boxes on wheels.
Ps That thing is awsome!

DonkeyWorx · « **Reply #19 on:** January 23, 2009, 05:42:01 pm »

The more I drive it, the better the "less black smoke" it gets.
To answer your question, If I am in 3rd gear just cruising down the road, and I romp on the throttle, it "puffs" a bit of black/gray smoke then seems to go away.

I have "seen" what I believe you guys "think" I am articulating. Meaning, that big bad diesel truck that bellows. No, mine is NOT doing that.

Oh, here is another pic PRE BUMPERS. I will get some more recent pics a bit later when I get a chance to snap some more.

DonkeyWorx · « **Reply #20 on:** January 23, 2009, 08:27:51 pm »

Found a pic with my Bumpers on

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #21 on:** January 23, 2009, 08:33:04 pm »

Quote from: "DonkeyWorx"

.
At idle, say sitting in your drive way with the engine at full heat operating temperature (all warmed up) - What does your EGT gauge read?

300F.

DonkeyWorx · « **Reply #22 on:** January 23, 2009, 08:41:27 pm »

Thanks Vince !

Yeah, Mine post turbo is showing exactly the same - 300 degrees.

I was just curios - I still need to move mine :oops:

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #23 on:** January 23, 2009, 08:54:04 pm »

Yeah, the point is that the turbo removes a variable amount of heat... depending on how hard it's working. One way to think of turbos is that they recover waste heat from the exhaust and convert it into kinetic energy that drives the compressor.

So at idle: its not working, it's not removing any heat.... pre and post temp readings are probably pretty darn close.

With your foot in it... it's working hard, removing lots of heat... so pre and post reading are a long ways apart. And when you need it the most...working it really hard... it will be lying the most. :cry:

You've got a stock set up, fuel-wise, and you're turning up the boost, which will act to lower EGTs, so technically speaking you should not be able to get into too much trouble.

'Course, the more of a diesel person you become, and the more you start to love all that torquey diesel goodness when climbing around in the mud.... the sooner your fingers will be reaching for the fuel screw. :wink:

Grunttorque · « **Reply #24 on:** January 23, 2009, 08:55:09 pm »

Your rig is looking good also Val.. are you going to try and convert the tach somehow? If you do let me know how! thanks

Nick

theman53 · « **Reply #25 on:** January 24, 2009, 04:22:42 am »

I don't know if you can get to it this way, but I would rather have the probe in the manifold out of one of the cylinders like #1 or #4 than in the DP. Just an idea, becuase the temps your taking would scare me when reading in the DP. Nice looking ride are those MTRs?

DonkeyWorx · « **Reply #26 on:** January 26, 2009, 11:10:22 am »

Quote from: "Grunttorque"

Your rig is looking good also Val.. are you going to try and convert the tach somehow? If you do let me know how! thanks

Nick

Yes, I will be using the Dakota Digital box to send a signal to my original in dash tach using a pulse from the GM ALT.

The DSL-1 Universal Diesel Tachometer Adaptor will accept a signal from the "W" terminal found on some diesel alternators (not all alternators used on diesel engines have this extra terminal) and converts the signal into a tachometer signal for a 4 or 8 cylinder standard ignition system tachometer. The DSL-1 is adjustable to allow for the different numbers on the alternator as well as different pulley sizes on the engine and alternator. Calibration should be done using a light tach or another known reference for speed.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=128/category_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd128.htm

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #27 on:** January 26, 2009, 01:14:32 pm »

my friend would be SO envious of you!!! He wanted me to give him my 1.6td when i found out i needed a new head. he has a tracker he's been playing around with.

i don't know what your location is but what other forums are you on?

DonkeyWorx · « **Reply #28 on:** January 27, 2009, 08:25:51 am »

Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

my friend would be SO envious of you!!! He wanted me to give him my 1.6td when i found out i needed a new head. he has a tracker he's been playing around with.

i don't know what your location is but what other forums are you on?

Smokey,

I am on these forums:

www.zuwharrie.com

www.midvalleycrawlers.com

www.zukiworld.com

www.discoweb.org

I am located in Oregon.

molgrips · « **Reply #29 on:** January 30, 2009, 06:23:49 am »

If it's a stock 1.9 I don't think you should get any smoke at all. When my 1.9 was in its stock 70bhp existence, there was absolutely zero smoke, ever - not a whiff. Now I've upped the fuel and boost (can only get 14psi tho) I get a bit of brown smoke under full load, but not a lot.

Could be your injectors I suppose but probably just coked up. If you're getting unburned fuel through that could be causing high EGTs, no?