Author Topic: Removing the IP sprocket (Read 4713 times)

Jettage1 · « **on:** January 03, 2009, 02:53:30 pm »

Any sure fire way to do this w/o the Bentley-described puller?

Thanks! :wink:

Op-Ivy · « **Reply #1 on:** January 03, 2009, 09:42:23 pm »

Some people have had good luck tapping around it with a big flat head screwdriver. Between the gear and the metal plate that the pump bolts onto. Usually works for me. Have to do it gently though.

Watch for the key coming out if you do this method.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #2 on:** January 04, 2009, 10:13:37 am »

Wedge a screw drive in between the pump backing plate and then tap the pulley. It'll come off. Make sure if you damage the gear that you file it smooth again. You don;t want it chewing up your timing belt.

Jettage1 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 04, 2009, 02:38:52 pm »

Yep, two screwdrivers (at 11:00 and 2:00), light tapping ensues and sprocket easily popped off...

Yippee!

Pump is out, injectors are out, hot damn! I'm halfway done!

Glow plugs are working fine now - should I change 'em anyway while I have good access?? Also, does one use anti-seize when installing new injectors?

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #4 on:** January 04, 2009, 03:38:50 pm »

i used antisieze when isntalling my old injectors yesterday?

im just gonna turn the torque down a bit because antisieze is kinda like a lube?? maybe 45-48 ft/lbs instead of 51.
hopefully it will help seal?

jtanguay · « **Reply #5 on:** January 04, 2009, 05:27:19 pm »

Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

i used antisieze when isntalling my old injectors yesterday?
im just gonna turn the torque down a bit because antisieze is kinda like a lube?? maybe 45-48 ft/lbs instead of 51.
hopefully it will help seal?

apparently theres a specific 'feel' to the injector if you get it just right you don't even need the right torque numbers... you'll actually feel the heat shield deform.

but good idea on lowering the torque. the antiseize does decrease the friction variable.

Dakotakid · « **Reply #6 on:** January 04, 2009, 10:47:42 pm »

If you already have a couple of new glow plugs, I would be really tempted to go ahead and replace glow plugs on #1 and #2 cylinder simply because they are difficult to get at with the pump on.

You can always save the old ones to eventually run on #3 and #4.
Your call.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #7 on:** January 05, 2009, 04:57:14 am »

As long as you don't have a LDA/ALDA I would leave the glowplugs for later. They are easy enough to do. Mind you when they do fail you'll only notice on the coldest of days....

smutts · « **Reply #8 on:** January 05, 2009, 02:00:44 pm »

Quote

Mind you when they do fail you'll only notice on the coldest of days....

You might have better compression than I.

Jettage1 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 05, 2009, 03:51:50 pm »

Decided to change the plugs for good measure. I do have an LDA on the new pump and access looks quite close. Knowing my luck I'd get everything back together only to have a plug fail and have to pull the IP just to change it. :roll:

I don't want to mess with the timing belt & accessory belts for a VERY long time after this is done!

jtanguay · « **Reply #10 on:** January 05, 2009, 04:30:10 pm »

you can still get in there with the LDA and leaving the pump on, but its very tricky... you must have a magnetic holding tool that you can get in there though...