Author Topic: Raceware Re-Torque  (Read 2241 times)

December 29, 2008, 05:15:07 am

ObscuredByClouds

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Raceware Re-Torque
« on: December 29, 2008, 05:15:07 am »
So, my recently rebuilt TD has 1000 miles under it's belt. It was leaking oil around two of the corners of the block/head and a touch of coolant on the rear. I drove to my shop and took the VC off, while the engine was hot, and I tightened them to 55 ft-lbs while hot, took about a 1/2 - 5/8 a turn to get them that tight (I have a hydro/MLS HG setup). I think the clamping force would be higher when the engine is warm (coolant cap open) just wondering if this is okay...

Reply #1December 29, 2008, 11:42:19 am

vwt4

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Re: Raceware Re-Torque
« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2008, 11:42:19 am »
Quote from: "NoSurrenderAG"
So, my recently rebuilt TD has 1000 miles under it's belt. It was leaking oil around two of the corners of the block/head and a touch of coolant on the rear. I drove to my shop and took the VC off, while the engine was hot, and I tightened them to 55 ft-lbs while hot, took about a 1/2 - 5/8 a turn to get them that tight (I have a hydro/MLS HG setup). I think the clamping force would be higher when the engine is warm (coolant cap open) just wondering if this is okay...


Not really!

There is a reason that studs and bolts should only be torqued to a cold engine...
As you say, the metal may be slightly softer when the engine is hot, however once it cools, I dont know the end result but I know its not a good idea to do this...

Overtorqing bolts past their specified torque level actually can create a less strong 'grip' and for that reason alone its not a good plan.

Once the stud is stretched past its optimum 'torque point' the clamping force gets less and less until either the stud or block are damaged.

Reply #2December 29, 2008, 12:11:39 pm

lildevil

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Raceware Re-Torque
« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2008, 12:11:39 pm »
mines leaking from the tranny side in the back aswell... you need a 12mm star though huh...
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Reply #3December 30, 2008, 05:35:21 pm

Rabbit TD

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Raceware Re-Torque
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2008, 05:35:21 pm »
Is 55 all the torque they recomend on the metal head gasket?  I've never used one but I thought it would be higher than that :?:  When I did the 1600 N/A that's in my car now it was leaking too after a head rebuild which was surfaced and the block was clean, it had the 11 m/m bolts and I just reused them and I think the torque was like 65 I think.  I thought what the hell, it's leaking anyway so I just retorqued in sequence 10 more pounds when it was cool and it hasn't leaked a drop of water or pressure since and it's been three years now with a fiber Felpro  gasket. I see you have those Raceware studs, I know they will take more torque than that as long as they go in the block as far as the stock bolts do, assuming they are 12 m/m, the  old 11 m/m ones are way shorter.  Give'em another ten, 65 when cold and see if it helps, 10 pounds on top of 55 isn't going to hurt a thing and probably more wouldn't either.  I just put the ARP studs in my 1600 TD and they call for 80, I know yours will take it.

Reply #4December 30, 2008, 05:54:22 pm

jtanguay

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Raceware Re-Torque
« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2008, 05:54:22 pm »
Quote from: "Rabbit TD"
Is 55 all the torque they recomend on the metal head gasket?  I've never used one but I thought it would be higher than that :?:  When I did the 1600 N/A that's in my car now it was leaking too after a head rebuild which was surfaced and the block was clean, it had the 11 m/m bolts and I just reused them and I think the torque was like 65 I think.  I thought what the hell, it's leaking anyway so I just retorqued in sequence 10 more pounds when it was cool and it hasn't leaked a drop of water or pressure since and it's been three years now.  That was a fiber gasket though, a 2 notch FELPRO.


from what andy2 told me, the MLS gasket needs more than 55 ft/lbs to properly deform...  while it might be okay for the fibre gaskets.  he has a good feel for when this occurs, and brought my racewares to about 80 ft/lbs and the gasket was still not properly deforming... eventually they stripped out and those pieces of junk are now gone (for a product costing $150+, i'm really not impressed...  :evil:).  he installed some ARP ones and they worked perfectly!

most of the head gasket issues people have while using studs is most likely not torquing them enough to properly deform the gasket.


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Reply #5December 30, 2008, 06:11:37 pm

Rabbit TD

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Raceware Re-Torque
« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2008, 06:11:37 pm »
I thought the Raceware studs were better than that, I'm glad I got the ARP ones, of course I haven't started the engine yet.  Did they have a specific part number for VW, ARP studs we use are a Ford Escort number.  Where did yours strip at in the head or in the block and did they go in deep enough :?: