electrical gremlins...suggestions plz

[steve6]

so I was driving to work today in some awesome toronto traffic and I've had this problem where my radio was shutting off randomly... I figured it was just a bad wire, and/or stereo going bad, but today when the stereo was shutting off the dash was going all crazy... Temp light was flashing, oil light and glow plug light.. sometimes the tach would drop off, and the wipers/heater/radio all wouldn't work.  It was if i was losing power to everything inside the cab.

Eventually it started working fine again... The engine never died and it was never out longer than a few minutes at a time (over the two hours I idled in traffic)

I though it might have been alternator or battery dying but it would be long dead and it still starts fine (I just put a brand new energizer in it)

My question is, where to start? is there some common ground spots that should be checked, or a main power feed into the cab that can be addressed first?


Suggestions? This is for a MKII

[the caveman]

Could be either the ignition switch or x [75] relay. When it stops working check if the blower fan, wipers and other accessories are also stopped .If so it's your x[75 - accessories/ cranking circuit] If other systems shut down, like the dash lights are telling you then you are losing voltage to the fusebox. If you have a 80-84 rabbit then check the fusable links behind the battery.

[steve6]

its almost time to drive it off a cliff anyways, the f'ing water pump is leaking now too. It just never ends.

[rabbitman]

I'd say check the body grounds, I don't know where they are on a mk2 though.
I had my battery to body ground loosen a while back and it made the GP light come on :?  The GPs weren't actually on though. This was on a mk1.

[AndrewSE]

I feel your pain buddy !

Your not alone !

I was new to all things car repair in general back in July... decided to buy a 91 Jetta 1.9TD with 519k on the body and appearently 250ish on the engine. I've know from day one this was my project car, but man

First I paid 1600cdn (foolish I know, live and learn)

First was the alternator
Then the injector lines
Battery
Signals stopped working (relay needed a rebuild)
Master cylinder
Brake perportionary valve
all but 2 brake lines (this was fun)
Rad
and not even a week of getting my car back on the road the alternator belt broke on my way in today. Easy fix I know, but FREAKIN cold out and no place warm to work.

As yourself my pump started to leak late in the fall, but just when it gets to half way. My thermastat is pooched and car does not get past a quarter in this cold so no leak

Still need tire rod , axle and boot on my passenger side. Not to mention struts / shocks wheel bearings oh and I'm burning oil.

never ends indeed  :evil:

check the relay as mentioned, this fixed my problems ! Best of luck !

[jtanguay]

actually the alt belt is only an easy fix if you don't have a/c!  :lol:

[fatmobile]

Alt belt on AC is easy; remove the waterpump pully, or crank pully and the AC belt will come off without messing with the AC mounting bolts.
 3 or 4 allen heads.

 Original poster: Sounds like a bad ground.
 Make sure the frame ground from the battery has a clean contact area.

[AndrewSE]

lucky for me I don't have AC like I thought I did  

One other then for the OP

I also recall a bad ground as well in my stearing colum that affected my signals.

[Smokey Eddy]

Alt belt on AC is easy; remove the waterpump pully, or crank pully and the AC belt will come off without messing with the AC mounting bolts.
 3 or 4 allen heads.

 Original poster: Sounds like a bad ground.
 Make sure the frame ground from the battery has a clean contact area.

X2

The intermediate shaft pulley needs to come off to get all the water pump bolts so be sure to undo that  big *cocksucker* while the belt is still on. Try and clamp everything still (everywhere) to avoid a slipping belt elsewhere (crank & cam)
Those Eriwin quick grips work well for sinching the belt to the pulleys to avoid a slipping belt.
the torque for that bolt is...

45 nM or 33 ft-lbs.

It's the same torque for all the Timing belt pulleys and the tensioner (minus the crank pulley)