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Cracked block question
by
85gti
on 05 Dec, 2008 14:10
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I am wondering if anyone evry fixed a hairline crack it a 1.6td or any engine for that matter. I assume it would get me out of a bund if it doesn't leak and I am just wondering if anyone has any info before I go waste the next few hours learning to weld... Thanks in advance.
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#1
by
zukgod1
on 05 Dec, 2008 14:14
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#2
by
arb
on 05 Dec, 2008 14:22
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Yeah, do you have photos ? Cast iron is not where you want to learn to weld - it will become like glass and crack even more ;-) I've welded blocks / manifolds. That's why you need an oven in your shop - you must pre-heat and slow cool to avoid the cracks.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15633&start=0
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#3
by
85gti
on 05 Dec, 2008 14:41
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The crack unfortunatly is where the top front tranny mount is. A bolt that was too long was used and caused a stress crack about an inch long. I could go take a few pics but I figured you guys would know what I meant. Thanks a lot guys!!
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#4
by
85gti
on 05 Dec, 2008 14:48
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Learning to weld is never a waste of time, but as others mentioned, leaning on a cast iron block is probably not a good place to start. If the crack intersects a cylinder or a main bearing cap I'd toss the block without hesitation. If it intersects a head bolt hole I'd toss the block with hesitation. Anywhere else, I'd likely attempt a repair.
Andrew
It is cracked a few inches below the head where the tranny bolts to the block. I think it is repairable but I really don't know how to weld that well. Maybe I will take a picture to make this easier to understand. Thanks again
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#5
by
arb
on 05 Dec, 2008 14:49
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That is probably the only important bolt I would think about welding - because it has several other backups and it is not under combustion pressure.
I recommend you take it to a speed shop and have their welder fix it, IF you don't know them, have him guarantee his work in writing that he will not damage it further.
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#6
by
smutts
on 09 Dec, 2008 16:19
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Copper Sulphate solution and solder? :twisted:
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#7
by
jtanguay
on 09 Dec, 2008 17:55
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you being in nova scotia, finding another 1.6TD shouldn't be a problem... i would only try to salvage this block if it was rebuilt not long ago... but thats just me!
that said... that locknstitch thing looks really cool.. i think you should do that instead of welding
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#8
by
arb
on 10 Dec, 2008 09:51
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Copper Sulphate solution and solder? :twisted:
I doubt solder has the required strength, but it would be easy to try.
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#9
by
madrogers
on 10 Dec, 2008 11:35
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i fixed a 327 chevy engine in high school that had froze and cracked two ,2 inch cracks across the water jackets on each side of the block. I cleaned it and warmed it up v-ed it out a bit and used JB Weld , the repair lasted 5 years and sold the car like that with the fix still working .
Mark
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#10
by
arb
on 10 Dec, 2008 11:46
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i fixed a 327 chevy engine in high school that had froze and cracked two ,2 inch cracks across the water jackets on each side of the block. I cleaned it and warmed it up v-ed it out a bit and used JB Weld , the repair lasted 5 years and sold the car like that with the fix still working .
Mark
You're showing your age !!! Man I miss the 283 I remaned.
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#11
by
85gti
on 10 Dec, 2008 14:29
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i fixed a 327 chevy engine in high school that had froze and cracked two ,2 inch cracks across the water jackets on each side of the block. I cleaned it and warmed it up v-ed it out a bit and used JB Weld , the repair lasted 5 years and sold the car like that with the fix still working .
Mark
You're saying that the JB weld held the coolant pressure that was being produced? If that is the case I may try that out and just see how it works! Let me know
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#12
by
85gti
on 10 Dec, 2008 14:31
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you being in nova scotia, finding another 1.6TD shouldn't be a problem... i would only try to salvage this block if it was rebuilt not long ago... but thats just me!
that said... that locknstitch thing looks really cool.. i think you should do that instead of welding
The stitching is really cool and I would love to try it out but to be honest I have a nice 1,9TD coupe MK2 jetta and the engine swap isn't really worth the effort at the moment. I will probably try the JB weld and see what happens. Thanks for the responses though guys!
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#13
by
arb
on 10 Dec, 2008 14:32
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i fixed a 327 chevy engine in high school that had froze and cracked two ,2 inch cracks across the water jackets on each side of the block. I cleaned it and warmed it up v-ed it out a bit and used JB Weld , the repair lasted 5 years and sold the car like that with the fix still working .
Mark
You're saying that the JB weld held the coolant pressure that was being produced? If that is the case I may try that out and just see how it works! Let me know
Coolant pressure is many orders of magnitude less than a bell housing bolt. He was talking about a crack that had to hold 14 psi - and the area of that crack could not have been even close to 1 square inch where your bolts is seeing thousands of psi. Unless I misunderstood the crack in the jacket as being a break.
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#14
by
madrogers
on 11 Dec, 2008 02:17
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the jb weld held the coolant pressure the trick i belive was to be clean dry and a rough surface.
the other comment i have is that i bought a mk1 pick up off a farmer that had only two bolts holding the trans in place to the engine ( the lower ones) and it had been like that for some time , i put them back in and no ill effecks from it so worst case you could leave that one out and try it unless you are going raceing.3 of 4 would work from my experiance.
Mark.