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A/C system recharge!
by
jtanguay
on 09 Jul, 2005 14:54
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ok so I bought that environmentally friendly recharging stuff. It says to charge the low pressure side. Is that the valve closest to the battery? or is it the one way down into the a/c compressor? I'm guessing its the one near the battery (and easiest to access)
I've got the moisture purge stuff, and the sealer. If this works I'll be thankful I didn't rip the system out!
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#1
by
jtanguay
on 09 Jul, 2005 17:44
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well as I traced the a/c lines I found out that the valve nearest the battery is NOT the low pressure valve... and I would have made a big mistake trying to charge that portion!!! So I tapped into the low pressure valve (nearest the compressor... funny that they say don't tap into the high pressure valve in the haynes... but then don't say where the low pressure valve is??? :x )
So the system is charged now and cold air blows!!!! YAY........ but there is a new problem... When a/c is on the fan isn't spinning!!! so my system got cold for about... 5-10 seconds then started getting hot again because the heat wasn't being taken out of the condensor!!
Is there a way to manually activate the fan? Can I just jump two wires and poof she spins?
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#2
by
jtanguay
on 09 Jul, 2005 20:03
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update: I tripped the relay with a 12v supply, and I hear the click in the relay.. but the fan still won't spin... odd... stupid fan!!!!!!
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#3
by
jtanguay
on 10 Jul, 2005 21:45
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well my rad fan is now dead.... I have to resort to using the heater blower to cool my engine until I find a new one
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#4
by
jackbombay
on 10 Jul, 2005 22:09
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bummer, no AC afterall, at least untill you junk up a fan.
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#5
by
srivett
on 11 Jul, 2005 16:36
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My car was cooking today, it was 34C out and I couldn't drive in city traffic due to a bumb rad fan. I was using my heatercore fan to save the engine and even it was making a bad noise. :x Off to the wrecker with a case of frozen bottled water tomorrow, it's gonna be 34C again so they'll probably be willing to trade parts for water! hehehehe Hopefully I can find enough wiring to ditch that relay setup.
ps. Don't forget to check the fuse, eh? Mine was burnt but the fan is dead too...I bent the housing so the fan fried whenever it tried to come on last.
Steve
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#6
by
MacGyver
on 11 Jul, 2005 17:14
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Are you sure it's the fan itself that's pooched, or is it the resistor below the motor?
Both low & high speed are gone?
I had that go bad on my 87 so only had high speed.
VW wanted ~$40 for it so I got one from Electrosonic close in value for a couple bucks. I think I have a bunch somewhere here now that would work...gotta stop collecting stuff :oops:
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#7
by
srivett
on 11 Jul, 2005 22:00
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MacGyver:
I just checked the fan and it runs on both speeds if I use jumper wires right to the battery and fan. Maybe only HIGH is gone, I figured the fan was dead because of the blown fuse and because it won't come on when I put the heater control to defrost. I shut the car down whenever the needle is about to touch 3/4 so maybe low is working...I am not willing to let the engine boil to find out.
Steve
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#8
by
jtanguay
on 11 Jul, 2005 22:40
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its definitely the fan... I directly connected it to the battery--would not spin. Being cautious, I spun the fan with my finger and then quickly connected it to the battery and bingo it spun great and I tried the A/C and it got REAL cold inside in about 2 minutes of cooling. After the fan ran for about 5 minutes, it just shut off... a/c started to warm up so I shut it off... tried playing with the fan again with no luck
it's definitely the fan. My main guess why the a/c charge dissipated was because the previous owner drove it with a/c on, didn't check temp gauge.. fan shut off and the a/c cooked itself.. some seal expanded and the gas leaked right out.. thank GOD for that pressure sensor to shut off the a/c pump... otherwise it would have been another FORD scenario with an a/c pump blowing :S
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#9
by
91 ECO
on 12 Jul, 2005 06:28
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Found out last summer when I was getting my a/c system running that my fan was toast. Found one in a junk yard and put in a new relay. Still running and the a/c is blowing cold. Now to get rid of the intermittant belt squeal. Probably the pully.
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#10
by
jtanguay
on 12 Jul, 2005 08:46
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91 ECO, do you have a good way of replacing the fan, or does it consist of removing the rad???
I tried to remove the fan shroud a few mins ago only to realize that the a/c line is in the way :evil: so now I'm pretty sure I have to remove the whole rad system just to get to the damn fan! I'm actually considering cutting the fan out... and re-welding or make a bolt on bracket to hold it in.
As long as it's secure it should be fine... right?
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#11
by
janb
on 13 Jul, 2005 18:10
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while we are on AC...
I have heard of using the Vac pump to 'evac system'. I had to change my condensor so, mine is now empty, and needs a full recharge
any hints welcome
janb
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#12
by
fspGTD
on 13 Jul, 2005 18:15
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I don't know if this will help, but I'll add that I measured the vacuum of a vane style diesel vacuum pump from a 1984 Rabbit, like what they put on the later A1 diesels as well as the A2 and A3 diesels, including the earlier TDIs. I found that as long as it wasn't asked to flow too much, it was able to reach almost a complete vacuum!
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#13
by
srivett
on 13 Jul, 2005 18:32
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Jake: Yep, my brake booster has vacuum for atleast a week after the last time I've run the car. I can tell by wiggling the line at the booster. I suppose a few adapters would be all it takes to suck out the AC. :lol:
It turned out I have a flakey rad fan connection so I don't need any parts assuming I can get the wiring to hold on a bit better.
Steve
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#14
by
jtanguay
on 13 Jul, 2005 21:41
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trying to repair the rad fan I had to remove my condensor... noticed a rust patch and... hisssssssssss and my condensor now has a leak :evil:
I wish they used something non oxidizing!!
so 200 later and I will be back in business. At least my rad fan is now fixed though!!!