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#15
by
cyrus #1
on 17 Nov, 2008 18:22
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If you keep adding tees you can have as many gauges as you want.
I personally would get the pressure reading from the side of the head. Reason being that in theory, this should have pretty much the lowest pressure of the system.
For the temperature gauge I would try to locate it somewhere near the flange. Go post oil cooler, if you have one. Just make sure the temperature gauge is in a location that has a bit of flow going past it.
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#16
by
Vincent Waldon
on 17 Nov, 2008 18:30
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And that's the problem of using a tee to add an oil temperature sensor unfortunately... you don't get much flow in a tee and so the response times can be quite slow.
Having said that, if your oil filter flange is not plumbed for an additional oil temperature sensor you don't have many options.. unless you own a M10 x 1 tap. :wink:
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#17
by
Smokey Eddy
on 17 Nov, 2008 21:52
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And that's the problem of using a tee to add an oil temperature sensor unfortunately... you don't get much flow in a tee and so the response times can be quite slow.
Having said that, if your oil filter flange is not plumbed for an additional oil temperature sensor you don't have many options.. unless you own a M10 x 1 tap. :wink:
I might. Where would you tap?
If you keep adding tees you can have as many gauges as you want. Smile I personally would get the pressure reading from the side of the head. Reason being that in theory, this should have pretty much the lowest pressure of the system.
But would that be with straight after market gauges and senders? I was saying once you add oil temp into one of the stock oil pressure senders (they work as a pair) and then that stock function doesn't work anymore.
I think i'll just have to put the oil temp where the sandwich is and hope it doesn't block any flow. And then put the oil pressure sender in the top of the head to basically just fill the hole.
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#18
by
Turbinepowered
on 18 Nov, 2008 12:55
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But would that be with straight after market gauges and senders? I was saying once you add oil temp into one of the stock oil pressure senders (they work as a pair) and then that stock function doesn't work anymore.
I think i'll just have to put the oil temp where the sandwich is and hope it doesn't block any flow. And then put the oil pressure sender in the top of the head to basically just fill the hole.
You can retain the stock system's "dumber" setting by removing the head pressure sensor and running without it. It constantly monitors pressure coming out of the oil filter, so you'll know if you have a
big problem like a gross loss of pressure from the pump/filter section itself, but you won't be informed of a blockage further along the chain.
From Bentley:
The components of the dynamic oil pressure warning system are the pressure switches, the electronic control unit, the low oil pressure indicator, and the warning buzzer. A 0.3 bar pressure switch provides a warning when the oil pressure falls to near zero at any time, including at idle. The other (1.8 bar) pressure switch provides earlier warning, at elevated RPM, whenever oil pressure falls below a minimum safe level.
The low pressure switches are located on the oil filter flange (0.3 bar) and on the end of the cylinder head (1.8 bar). The electronic control unit is located behind the instrument cluster.
The 1.8 bar pressure switch is normally open (no circuit to ground). When the engine is running above 2000 RPM, oil pressure closes the switch (completing circuit to ground). If oil pressure is insufficient to close the pressure switch, or the switch is stuck open, the indicator will flash and the buzzer will sound.
So you'd still have your "hey stupid, your oil pressure is
really freaking low" functionality, but you'd be on your own for giving yourself a higher threshold monitoring function, like a gauge.
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#19
by
Smokey Eddy
on 18 Nov, 2008 17:44
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Ok! wow thanks for that really good info!!!
I think i want to monitor the temp at the sandwich (people have said that's the best spot if you don't have an oil cooler) and then i'll re-route the 0.3 bar (hey stupid the oil pressure is near nil - turn the car off!!!) switch to the top of the head and just say screw it to the 1.8bar 2,000 RPM one. I'll just have to remember to use a bosch/mann filter all the time which i will never forget after last time :roll: .
I had a prior experience with a 20$ oil filter not holding enough pressure or screwing with the pressure and i got the oil light buzz at 2,000rpm. Got a real filter and it fixed it.
There,at the top of the head, the pressure would read the least the soonest right? making my 0.3bar more like >0.3 bar but it would obviously mean a significant drop.
Would that arrangement work?
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#20
by
carrizog60
on 20 Nov, 2008 14:26
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hello
same doubts here...
i want to mount a oil temp. gauge but retain all the stock ones.
could i tap the pan for the sender?
would the readings be helpfull?
and what about water temp gauge?
adding one too,the one in the dash sometimes reads low,weeks later reads high... :roll:
sorry for hijack... :oops:
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#21
by
Smokey Eddy
on 20 Nov, 2008 20:21
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It's not a hijack. I am asking the same questions now that you have.
However, i don't think taping into the oil pan would be a good idea. It won't give you a good reading of what the temp of the oil is entering or exiting the block. It sits in the pan too long IMO.
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#22
by
AudiVWguy
on 20 Nov, 2008 20:59
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I've had my sending unit in the oil pan for about a year now. It is a digital gauge I got from Summit. I bought a second sender and installed it in the water return coming out of the head and back to the top of the radiator. Small switch to check head temp or oil temp sender and it all comes out one gauge.
I thought about the fact that this is the coolest place for the oil to hang out, but with the digital oil pressure gauge I can keep an eye on both. :wink:
-JB
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#23
by
Smokey Eddy
on 20 Nov, 2008 21:02
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I bought a second sender and installed it in the water return coming out of the head and back to the top of the radiator
Did you just use a stock style sender but wired a gauge to it?
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#24
by
carrizog60
on 21 Nov, 2008 00:02
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i dont have the stock oil cooler but a mocal air/oil one.
if tapping the pan is not a good idea where do i put it?
and the water one?
i am sure all the water temp. gauges in the dash dont work properly... :roll:
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#25
by
zukgod1
on 21 Nov, 2008 07:31
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I've been considering where the best place to install a temp sender for he oil and still haven't really made a final decision.
There are good and bad on every location I think of.
If you read it at the filter mount you are reading for all intensive purpose's the temp in the pan sorta I'll get into that in a second here, it's pulling from the pan to the pump then through the filter then to the sender so basically the same as the pan. There may be some extra heat added due to the compression as it goes through the pump but I'll bet it's not to bad. Also in some cases there is the oil cooler in that step as well so you are reading what temp the oil is heading to the engine instead of reading what the return oil temp is. I don't feel that's a good way to read it, i want to know what temp the oil is coming OUT of the engine so the return oil temp is what I'm looking for.
And to address the comments of it sitting in the pan for a long time I'm going to have to disagree. I've not done the calculations as to how much the 36mm pump actually moves at what rpm but I dare say the oil isn't sitting in the pan for very long at all. So you are really reading what the oil temp the is after it is returned to the pan from the internals.
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#26
by
AudiVWguy
on 21 Nov, 2008 08:09
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The picture of the two senders that you have on the previous page, they both look like the one on the right. I dropped the pan and welded a bung to screw in the sender. For the coolant, there's a fitting that the upper rad hose attaches to on the block. That way it reads the coolant out of the head toward the rad. I got it of a VW gasser at the junk yard.
-JB
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#27
by
Smokey Eddy
on 21 Nov, 2008 13:45
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I've been considering where the best place to install a temp sender for he oil and still haven't really made a final decision.
There are good and bad on every location I think of.
If you read it at the filter mount you are reading for all intensive purpose's the temp in the pan sorta I'll get into that in a second here, it's pulling from the pan to the pump then through the filter then to the sender so basically the same as the pan. There may be some extra heat added due to the compression as it goes through the pump but I'll bet it's not to bad. Also in some cases there is the oil cooler in that step as well so you are reading what temp the oil is heading to the engine instead of reading what the return oil temp is. I don't feel that's a good way to read it, i want to know what temp the oil is coming OUT of the engine so the return oil temp is what I'm looking for.
And to address the comments of it sitting in the pan for a long time I'm going to have to disagree. I've not done the calculations as to how much the 36mm pump actually moves at what rpm but I dare say the oil isn't sitting in the pan for very long at all. So you are really reading what the oil temp the is after it is returned to the pan from the internals.
SO, tapping into the pan seems to be the best option... yeah?
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#28
by
carrizog60
on 21 Nov, 2008 13:47
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The picture of the two senders that you have on the previous page, they both look like the one on the right. I dropped the pan and welded a bung to screw in the sender. For the coolant, there's a fitting that the upper rad hose attaches to on the block. That way it reads the coolant out of the head toward the rad. I got it of a VW gasser at the junk yard.
-JB
any pics of that flange?
so sender for oil in the pan is good right? :lol:
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#29
by
Smokey Eddy
on 21 Nov, 2008 13:48
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I'd like a pic too.
Yeah does sound like the best place [oil pan]