Author Topic: PD/VE compression ratio dilemma (Read 16978 times)

oldskool rich · « **Reply #45 on:** December 30, 2008, 08:38:22 pm »

well not much competition in the UK so im in with a chance, lol i admit i could of thort things through a bit better but im just gona adapt as i go along thats what i did with my 1Z and it seems to run ok, im not sure about the piston problem, i dont know what im gona run yet, so will the 2.5 pistons be a straight swap? will they fit with the PD rods?

im not much of a reader and i have a breakers yard at my disposal so im jsut gona *** about with bits until it beets everything else in its class, i honestly dont mind rebuilding it 100 times, i enjoy it. im converting my mk1 to have a mk2 subframe so it will be easyer to whip it in and out

im gona post sum build threads wen i get round to it, ive got my AAZ, 1Z and now this

thanx jiggs, im glad sumones rooting for the under dog, i hope it is brutal in the end and not a pile poo like sum people think :roll:

tbh im just ***ing around, if it does work it will be rapid! if not ill just sell out to 16v PD, win win realy, i just prefer driving sumthing a built myself that no one else has got, is that crime?
everyone told me that i cudnt fit PD internals into a 1Z block, look whos laughing now :lol: its possibly the only one in the world

cyrus #1 · « **Reply #46 on:** December 30, 2008, 10:24:43 pm »

That thing is a looker. :shock: How did you get it all that clean?

Rub87 · « **Reply #47 on:** December 31, 2008, 04:58:59 am »

Look alot like my engine :p But I used ARL block with the 2.0 PD 8v pistons..

The 2.5 T4 pistons will fit but not with the rods you have, I don't know if there are rods available with the bigger journal without the tapered head..

The pistons you need are from engine code BMM etc.. should be findable..

Are you going to use that inktake manifold?

oldskool rich · « **Reply #48 on:** December 31, 2008, 06:11:57 am »

do the BMM pitons have recesses? i soaked it in petrol for a few weeks cleaned the *** out of it then sprayed a fine mist of chrome paint on it to give it that sparkle

i dont know why i bother, every engine i do starts that cleen but by the time its on the road it looks *** again :roll: im building this in my dinning room to try and keep this one tidy

Rub87 · « **Reply #49 on:** December 31, 2008, 06:16:49 am »

Yes, they are like ARL pistons, but 81mm

My engine also was that clean, I had a new head, started the engine, then nI found out that somehow the plug in the oil passage under the vacuum pump wasn't there :?

Does that engine has balance shafts? how's the oilpump driving? I don't see the sprocket on there..

Rub87 · « **Reply #50 on:** December 31, 2008, 06:21:12 am »

With some work done to the bowl to reduce CR, if you zoom you can see 80.96 on there

Tintin · « **Reply #51 on:** December 31, 2008, 09:30:01 am »

Quote from: "Rub87"

1. A 16v PD piston will not work with a 8v head.. why? Because the bowl is in the center, and with all 8v heads it has an offset towrds the injector.

Héhéhé...!!! Thus the injector nozzle will not inject into the piston bowl, but on the top of the piston, be sure this engine will not work very well.

snakemaster · « **Reply #52 on:** December 31, 2008, 02:07:00 pm »

Quote

everyone told me that i cudnt fit PD internals into a 1Z block, look whos laughing now its possibly the only one in the world

rich do you mean 1Z or ahu internals in a PD block , cos the block in the pic has 2.0 and looks like a 2.0 PD block to me , or do you have some trick up your sleave

oldskool rich · « **Reply #53 on:** December 31, 2008, 09:04:18 pm »

yes it has an itegral balance shaft. im not sure if thats standard because all the bits came from different places

no my M-TDI 1Z engine is a totaly different project, its in a corrado VR6 it has PD pistons, rods and crank out of a PD 130 which are aparently 30% stronger, had to do alot of machine work to make it all fit, will be worth it though, hoping to run about 230 bhp reliably

its nealy on the road, just working a few bugs out of the turbo set up, everything else runs fine, i realy should get sum pics of the bay

oldskool rich · « **Reply #54 on:** December 31, 2008, 09:18:48 pm »

sum better ones

Rub87 · « **Reply #55 on:** January 01, 2009, 08:27:05 am »

Turbo is in the same pos as mine on my previous AFN..

If I were you I'd really use a better intake manifold.. and 230hp is too much for that turbo reliable..

I was just thinking, if you'd just plug a ecu in there with the crank angle sensor and needle lift sender, and maybe a few other things you'd be able to view the effective timing while the engine is running..

jtanguay · « **Reply #56 on:** January 01, 2009, 01:47:49 pm »

Quote from: "Rub87"

I was just thinking, if you'd just plug a ecu in there with the crank angle sensor and needle lift sender, and maybe a few other things you'd be able to view the effective timing while the engine is running..

thats pretty interesting... i would like to test that out with my mTDI as i have both crank & needle lift sensors...

oldskool rich · « **Reply #57 on:** January 01, 2009, 08:37:58 pm »

wow nice exhaust manifold, what other inlet manifold cud i use? the one i have only just fits

what have you done for the VNT control? sumone in the UK dinoed at 240bhp from a 1Z with this set up, apparently after 240 the block starts to twist so you can run about 260 but can only probly do one run then change the head gasket

what will break first at 230bhp? what do you think is the highest i can go before things start to fall apart?

i might make myself a main gurdle to hold everything together if need be

do you have any advice about this turbo as i guess youve had more experiance than me. its already fallen apart once, but seems ok now, will i damage it if i keep the vains closed for too long?

i dont think im gona use VNT again, its too tempramental, i think ball bearing + superchager for the win :wink:

Tintin · « **Reply #58 on:** January 02, 2009, 12:31:43 am »

Quote from: "jtanguay"

Quote from: "Rub87"
I was just thinking, if you'd just plug a ecu in there with the crank angle sensor and needle lift sender, and maybe a few other things you'd be able to view the effective timing while the engine is running..

thats pretty interesting... i would like to test that out with my mTDI as i have both crank & needle lift sensors...

It should work, there is also a mechanical pump with N108 on it.........