Author Topic: HOW TO GET RID OF RUST ON PARTS AND IT WORKS!! (Read 12771 times)

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #30 on:** October 27, 2008, 03:00:05 pm »

i been messing around with this stuff! i could not find large amounts of malt vinegar so i tried the white or clear vinegar that comes in gallon jugs! well it works too! so i got some injectors sitting in there and we will see how they turn out? does work best if the parts have been fully degrease of oil!
allows the vinegar to penetrate the rust !
Duane

lord_verminaard · « **Reply #31 on:** October 28, 2008, 07:12:55 am »

Good to know, I think all I can find in quantity is white vinegar too. I would have figured the vinegar would eat the oily grease too. I plan on leaving my parts soak for several days, not just overnight. Hope to do some shopping today or tomorrow for bins and vinegar. Gonna hit the "foodstamp stops" for cheap vinegar!

Brendan

Slave2School · « **Reply #32 on:** October 28, 2008, 03:10:06 pm »

Are you guys sure this is a wise idea to use on tolerance parts like pumps? The acid will be eating away some good metal too I would assume. Maybe a good way to enlarge nozzle holes...?

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #33 on:** October 28, 2008, 03:28:08 pm »

I bought 4 liters of vinegar today to do manifolds and similar parts.
I don't think you need to worry too much about fresh material coming off unless it starts to tarnish things. Rust/corrosion may be harder than the actual substance...
for example, aluminum oxide is much harder than aluminum but i rubs off with your fingers. I think the vinegar, citric acid and so on will take the corrosion off and leave the rest alone unless you leave it in there long after all the corrosion is removed.

jtanguay · « **Reply #34 on:** October 28, 2008, 05:35:47 pm »

i wish someone with a background in chemistry could chime in... but i would almost guess that the acid only attacks the aluminum oxide, because of the oxygen... and leaves the rest alone, but eventually acid can eat through many things...

clbanman · « **Reply #35 on:** October 29, 2008, 02:36:56 am »

I'm not a chemist by any means, but I think it may have something to do with where a product is on the PH scale. Vinegar is acidic but we use a cleaning product at work that is alkaline, so to the other end of the PH scale, and it will actually remove anodizing from aluminum. and start corrosion on copper and even plated metal if left on too long. If applied and washed off within 10 minutes, there is no problem with this, and it removes all oil residue. I suspect the vinegar works in a similar way in that it is time sensitive. A short application probably wouldn't even get rid of the rust, but if you left a part in it for 2 weeks, it might damage the base metal.

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #36 on:** November 02, 2008, 05:54:35 pm »

i been messing around and found out that you should not leave in no longer then 72 hours! periodically hand wire brush the pieces!
if left to just sit it will start eating away at the metal it really starts to put pits in the metal! so i think i ruined a couple of injector's i left in the vinegar too long?
Duane

lord_verminaard · « **Reply #37 on:** November 03, 2008, 11:39:57 am »

Wow, no kidding! Good information to know. The dollar store in town was out of plastic storage containers. :?

Does Vinegar work ok as a degreaser too? Or will I need two bins, one for chem dip and another for rust removal?

Brendan

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #38 on:** November 03, 2008, 12:06:34 pm »

Quote from: "lord_verminaard"

Wow, no kidding! Good information to know. The dollar store in town was out of plastic storage containers. :?

Does Vinegar work ok as a degreaser too? Or will I need two bins, one for chem dip and another for rust removal?

Brendan

no it's best to have the parts degrease prior other wise the vinegar can't penetrate the rust but it will cut through a little bit i guess?
Duane

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #39 on:** November 03, 2008, 03:37:15 pm »

I believe clbanman is exactly right.
In chem 12 we did similar stuff. Substances will always tend to neutralize. so like what clbanman said about PH; something very basic like chlorine will not work as a degreaser but it's excellent at eating away flesh if left long enough. That's why your hands feel slippery when they have bleach on them, it's actually killing the top layers of your skin and the skin just falls off.

Add a current to the idea with low PH substances and that's how you get plating. You reverse corrosion in a sense. Corrosion is exothermic I believe. So, add energy (electricity) and there you go.
High PH(greater than 7.0) is basic, low PH (less than 7.0) is acidic i think...
I dunno it's been ... 8 months and i hated my teacher. Wiki is always a good choice

Better than me, that's for sure. I just like to think I know a little about at least something :roll: .
All of which I've said is in very basic layman's terms of course.

(PH is a logarithmic scale of how much (concentration) either h+ (acidic) or OH- (basic) is present)