the older transit tdi are all flyby wire cav pump and no use at all , but the di transit ve bosch pump (think this is what you mean) would work but would need a lda + the pullys may be out of line and you may need a 1.6 vw diesel pump bracket and file out the holes in the pump to ajust the pump timming ,unless you got the ahu pump pully to fit
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: i realy want to help you sabatino but i dont know what your sayingive read ths topic twice now and i still havent got a clue exactly what your asking :roll:
Quote from: "oldskool rich":lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: i realy want to help you sabatino but i dont know what your sayingive read ths topic twice now and i still havent got a clue exactly what your asking :roll: :cry: you're right, but get the same :cry: I use to write a translator who is called google translate otherwise would be impossible for me to read that for you
Quote from: "sabatino"Quote from: "oldskool rich":lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: i realy want to help you sabatino but i dont know what your sayingive read ths topic twice now and i still havent got a clue exactly what your asking :roll: :cry: you're right, but get the same :cry: I use to write a translator who is called google translate otherwise would be impossible for me to read that for you
in the mk1 now the motor tdi is climbed on 90 horses but with mechanical pomp of the 1.9 aaz td with plants with trees 11 mms.do I have electronic plant of audi 80 tdi,es now I want to climb on original pomp tdi and turbine to geo varibile, as do I do to connect only pomp injection elettronica,turbina varying geometry excluding other sensors from the centralina?do you have manual electric schemes? thanks
"It is possible to build a simple VNT controller. I am doing this now with one of those brass boost valves, N75 valve from a ALH TDI and a throttle switch from a CIS-E VW. It does work amazingly well. How is it done... well...CIS-E THROTTLE VALVE:The electronic throttle valve switch is on the injector pump so that it is closed when your foot is off the accelerator pedal and on when you start to apply pressure to the accelerator pedal.ALH N75 VALVE:This is attached to the electronic CIS throttle valve switch. When the throttle switch is closed (accelerator pedal at rest), the N75 valve gets 12V and the valve closes. One side of the N75 is attached to the VNT on the turbo the other to vacuum from the vacuum pump. So, at idle there is no vacuum and the turbo goes into its default position where it will not try to make boost - essentially the same as an open waste gate at this moment. When the user pushes the accelerator pedal, the N75 opens because it doesn't get 12V via the throttle switch, vacuum goes to the VNT and the turbo tries to make boost - essentially the same as a closed waste gate at this moment. It will make as much boost as fuel you are supplying it with, so just *** footing along will result in only some boost being generated due to not sufficient exhaust flow. Matting the pedal will result and more exhaust being created and then the turbo works harder and makes more boost until...BOOST VALVE:This is a simple spring and ball boost valve that I get from 3barracing.com This Ts into the vacuum line between the N75 and the vacuum pump. When you have X bar or less boost, the ball remains seated and vacuum is present between the N75 and the vacuum pump. When X bar or more boost occurs the ball unseats allowing pressure to pass causing the vacuum to be replaced with some pressure and then then VNT will go to a position where it will not make any boost. Be sure to put a check valve between the T and the vacuum pump as not to pressurise the rest of the system. When the ball is unseated the VNT isn't in a position to make boost, the boost pressure will drop until X or less pressure is achieved and then the ball seats, vacuum is reestablished and the VNT will go to a position where it will makes boost, until the ball unseats and the process starts again.Essentially this is the same principal is a waste gate. The only real difference here is the N75 valve to make sure there is a "fail safe" on the system so when you foot is off the accelerator pedal, or the ignition is off (in case of a runaway Diesel) there is no way the VNT will be in a position to make boost. This is how a lot of modded VNTs are run out there. The ECU is too slow to control the N75 valve fast enough so people install one of these spring and ball valves to assist everything. "
Quotein the mk1 now the motor tdi is climbed on 90 horses but with mechanical pomp of the 1.9 aaz td with plants with trees 11 mms.do I have electronic plant of audi 80 tdi,es now I want to climb on original pomp tdi and turbine to geo varibile, as do I do to connect only pomp injection elettronica,turbina varying geometry excluding other sensors from the centralina?do you have manual electric schemes? thanksI'll give this a shot. Seems like you have a 1.9l TDI with a 11mm mechanical IP from an AAZ . You also have an electronically controlled pump from an Audi with a VNT turbo and you are asking if the VNT can be used on the mTDI.The answer is not easily especially with the translation issues. Here is a post where they are trying to do the same thing.http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=11793here's a quote from another site:Quote"It is possible to build a simple VNT controller. I am doing this now with one of those brass boost valves, N75 valve from a ALH TDI and a throttle switch from a CIS-E VW. It does work amazingly well. How is it done... well...CIS-E THROTTLE VALVE:The electronic throttle valve switch is on the injector pump so that it is closed when your foot is off the accelerator pedal and on when you start to apply pressure to the accelerator pedal.ALH N75 VALVE:This is attached to the electronic CIS throttle valve switch. When the throttle switch is closed (accelerator pedal at rest), the N75 valve gets 12V and the valve closes. One side of the N75 is attached to the VNT on the turbo the other to vacuum from the vacuum pump. So, at idle there is no vacuum and the turbo goes into its default position where it will not try to make boost - essentially the same as an open waste gate at this moment. When the user pushes the accelerator pedal, the N75 opens because it doesn't get 12V via the throttle switch, vacuum goes to the VNT and the turbo tries to make boost - essentially the same as a closed waste gate at this moment. It will make as much boost as fuel you are supplying it with, so just *** footing along will result in only some boost being generated due to not sufficient exhaust flow. Matting the pedal will result and more exhaust being created and then the turbo works harder and makes more boost until...BOOST VALVE:This is a simple spring and ball boost valve that I get from 3barracing.com This Ts into the vacuum line between the N75 and the vacuum pump. When you have X bar or less boost, the ball remains seated and vacuum is present between the N75 and the vacuum pump. When X bar or more boost occurs the ball unseats allowing pressure to pass causing the vacuum to be replaced with some pressure and then then VNT will go to a position where it will not make any boost. Be sure to put a check valve between the T and the vacuum pump as not to pressurise the rest of the system. When the ball is unseated the VNT isn't in a position to make boost, the boost pressure will drop until X or less pressure is achieved and then the ball seats, vacuum is reestablished and the VNT will go to a position where it will makes boost, until the ball unseats and the process starts again.Essentially this is the same principal is a waste gate. The only real difference here is the N75 valve to make sure there is a "fail safe" on the system so when you foot is off the accelerator pedal, or the ignition is off (in case of a runaway Diesel) there is no way the VNT will be in a position to make boost. This is how a lot of modded VNTs are run out there. The ECU is too slow to control the N75 valve fast enough so people install one of these spring and ball valves to assist everything. "Hope this helps.
Topic: it modifies mk1 (Read 19708 times)
