Author Topic: Governor adjust (Read 5198 times)

autoholic · « **on:** October 15, 2008, 08:11:14 pm »

I have never messed with the governor adjustment. Are there gain's to be had there, can this be a simple power increase? The pump I just did for my friend runs like a typical stock VW, it starts to cut fuel off around 2500 RPM (just guessing) and while I do not want it to rev to the moon, it would be great if he could have full fuel up higher in the revs. I thought I would inquire before messing with it, I'm sure there are folks here who could not resist playing with this adjustment!

I did the governor mod on my pump and it feels alot stronger. I left the actual governor setting where it was.

dillenger1 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 15, 2008, 08:39:23 pm »

did you preload it?You said you never messed with the governor. :?

autoholic · « **Reply #2 on:** October 15, 2008, 08:45:15 pm »

Quote from: "dillenger1"

did you preload it?You said you never messed with the governor. :?

No, i don't think I did. I did the gov mod deal and put the shaft/nut adj back where it was originally. Same with my friends pump that does not have the gov mod. I'll search around for info on the preload- thanks for bringing it to my attn.
I tend to just dive right in, then learn about things I missed after!

zukgod1 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 16, 2008, 11:12:08 am »

There is no preload.

You do the gov mod and re install in the same place.

dillenger1 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 16, 2008, 02:50:01 pm »

I dont think you understand the governor mod.Its modifying the spring assembly on the throotle shaft.Its inside the pump.Are you taking about the accelerator stop screw?(threaded rod with two stop nuts)Did you open up your pump?

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #5 on:** October 16, 2008, 03:50:09 pm »

Yeah, I think youse guys are talking about apples and oranges.

My guess is that the OP is asking about tweaking the big screw that goes down the middle of the governor (counterweights) shaft... the one with the left-hand thread and the locknut.

Everyone else is talking about the so-called "governor mod"... shimming the various springs on the internal throttle linkage.

Or at least, that's my guess ??!!!

autoholic · « **Reply #6 on:** October 16, 2008, 04:20:51 pm »

I did the gov mod on my pump (washers on throttle arm linkage deal) and understand what it does , but my question is on the external adjustment , the threaded shaft with locknut at front of pump. I am just curious what others have experienced when playing with this adjustment.

vanbcguy · « **Reply #7 on:** October 17, 2008, 12:43:07 am »

Quote from: "autoholic"

I did the gov mod on my pump (washers on throttle arm linkage deal) and understand what it does , but my question is on the external adjustment , the threaded shaft with locknut at front of pump. I am just curious what others have experienced when playing with this adjustment.

That shaft is apparently the max engine speed setting for the governor. It's reverse thread... I think it's the "right" (Bosch) way to set maximum speed...

dillenger1 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 17, 2008, 09:20:11 am »

I set my shaft to the top of the nut when rebuilding.they were completely flush when i started.Does that shaft govern the max speed,because its already set to go to 6000 rpm.

Tony2ltr · « **Reply #9 on:** January 01, 2009, 12:21:27 pm »

When I turned this in too much, it richened up the fuel so much that the engine would not idle down after releasing the throttle, I would have to stall it down...
-Tony

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #10 on:** January 03, 2009, 05:32:03 pm »

Quote

When I turned this in too much, it richened up the fuel so much that the engine would not idle down after releasing the throttle, I would have to stall it down...

>Describing fuel (or smoke) screw on top of LDA...

Quote

I set my shaft to the top of the nut when rebuilding.they were completely flush when i started.Does that shaft govern the max speed,because its already set to go to 6000 rpm.

>Ditto...

Quote

the external adjustment , the threaded shaft with locknut at front of pump.

>Seems like you are describing the physical stops for the throttle action.
Bentley Manual says with the car in neutral, slowly increase the throttle until you get no more revs. If it goes to 5000, you are properly set, otherwise, adjust more or less as needed.

-Brad

Tony2ltr · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2009, 05:45:18 pm »

Nope, I am talking about the Fuel screw (I have been doing some reading). I had cracked into it looking for power, but the car would not idle down, even with the idle screw backed all the way out so the accel lever wasn't even touching. The damn thing was a crop duster, I couldn't even see the street lights behind me, and the clutch would start slipping at about 25 PSI boost in third. I had been power shifting, and when I finally let go of the throttle, the R's stayed right where they were. I ended up turning it back down because it was not driveable, but it HONKED!.
I have a bronze 6 puck clutch now, but I would love to get that power back!
This is an ecodiesel, so the boost aneurid was not even added to the pump until a later attempt at getting more power.
-Tony

burn_your_money · « **Reply #12 on:** January 03, 2009, 06:42:32 pm »

Get a modified true turbo diesel pump and you'll get power closer to what you were experiencing. The LDA limits the bottom end fueling, which means more fuel when under boost

Tony2ltr · « **Reply #13 on:** January 03, 2009, 07:51:41 pm »

What are the differeces in the TD (non-eco) other than the cold start linkage and the boost top?