Author Topic: Head stud part #? (Read 7655 times)

RustyCaddy · « **Reply #30 on:** October 23, 2008, 06:55:31 pm »

The engine code is on a flat spot on the upper edge of the block, just more or less directly above the the oil filter mount.

maxfax · « **Reply #31 on:** October 23, 2008, 06:59:47 pm »

Quote from: "autoholic"

That would suck... getting it all done and pullijng the threads out - or cracking the block! i would be in tears this time!

Been there done that... 1.6 freshely bored, new pistons, etc..
Didn;t have my head back from the machine shop yet but decided to install the engine in the car anyway and put the head on later...
Was torqueing the #10 head bolt in the sequence when I hear a rather disheartening crack.. And then the bolt got real loose... And I swore I woudl never use the $*&( VW bolts again.. Of course I did use them again on my current Rabbit because I was being impatient and cheap.. 40,000 miles and I was changing a head gasket, Installed head studs.. And finally got all the oil out of the cooling system...

autoholic · « **Reply #32 on:** October 23, 2008, 07:04:55 pm »

Ouch! the block was in the car on top of it!
Well you know my story, pretty similar situation but happened when retorquing. very few miles on it.

maxfax · « **Reply #33 on:** October 23, 2008, 10:49:12 pm »

Equally agrivating I'm sure.. Chalk it up as another learning experience I guess...

Quantum TD · « **Reply #34 on:** October 24, 2008, 02:18:26 pm »

Quote from: "Mark(The Miser)UK"

According to my recent tests the initial 12mm stretch point was between 105 and 115 lbft. The torque wrench was a 1980's Snapon wrench which looks very much like the one used by Bosch in their service manuals.

X2. I've tested the torque on several diesel heads before I removed them. 100-115 is about the range. Sometimes, I go back and set my wrench to 106 to make sure they're all about the same. Most times, after I've done the sequence and double-check at 106lbs, they all click on my torque wrench. So, yeah, 88lbs is not a ton. BUT, as I've discovered, the lubricant can make a huge difference in the amount of torque exerted. As noted by others, ARP recommends different torques for different lubes. New 12mm bolts usually come pre-lubed, so I just go with that.

maxfax · « **Reply #35 on:** October 24, 2008, 04:43:09 pm »

That makes me feel alot better about using the higher torque spec.. Never had a 12mm getup to check out.. I assumed that there probably was more clamping force there.. I'm wondering if I could torque them a bit more if trouble shoudl ever arise... So far ARP's spec has been working fine...

Still makes me wonder if VW didn;t have such a low spec becasue of the weak block...

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #36 on:** October 24, 2008, 05:26:08 pm »

This is a little side note:
Does anyone have any tips for actually cleaning out the holes?
I read on the thread that you can hear/see oil get squished out when you turn them in by hand but with the studs you're supposed to use assembly lube. I didn't read the thread in full, rather i searched "cleaning" and read those posts. If I'm cutting corners and i missed something in the thread pm me and say look more carefully you doto! but I don't see any advice for actually getting gunk out/oil out.
I admit, you could just hit it with brake cleaner while the block is out and turn it upside down but i don't want to take the block out if at all possible. (i don't have the tools to do so. - no crane, no engine stand, no room))
I'm guessing having old oil in there would mess with the torque spec you're supposed to have with the assembly lube. Any ideas?
Can someone PM me? no need to clutter this thread further unless you deem it useful. Also, anyone with a table pm me with the part no. for head studs on a 1.6td hydro? I just want to make sure. (i already have them)

maxfax · « **Reply #37 on:** October 24, 2008, 05:47:57 pm »

Flat bottomed tap and chase down the holes, hit them with some brake cleaner, then the compressed air... At the least a tap & brake cleanr would be a good Idea, cleans all that baked on crap outta there.. With the threads clean everything should squish outta there if you turn the stud in slowly...

AS far as turning the studs into the block I just thread them in the whole way and snug them a bit.. The end with the nut is where you shoudl have the moly grease on thte threds since that's where the torquing is taking place...

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #38 on:** October 25, 2008, 01:49:02 am »

oooooooo ok
I figured the whole stud would turn a little bit but that is a very obvious and clear point.
I dont know why i didn't see that. Thanks a lot!

Possum79 · « **Reply #39 on:** October 25, 2008, 10:57:52 am »

Quote from: "maxfax"

AS far as turning the studs into the block I just thread them in the whole way and snug them a bit.. The end with the nut is where you shoudl have the moly grease on thte threds since that's where the torquing is taking place...

I could have sworn I read somewhere to use the Moly lube on both ends of the stud. I can't find where I read that though.

maxfax · « **Reply #40 on:** October 25, 2008, 11:34:25 pm »

Can't hurt anything..... I used Hylomar as a thread sealant on mine... There were a few small cracks in the block so I took a chance to see what would happen.... So far so good...