As many of us know all too well the nice wrenching weather is starting to fade as the snowy season draws closer. I figured I would get a diesel project going to help pass some time. I also figured that nobody would mind another build thread! I've been driving a VW for several years now but never have had the diesel that I always wanted.
I picked up a '92 Jetta TD shell that needs an engine. I also got a 1.6TD out of a 1987 Audi 4000 and an AGS transaxle. I now have most of the parts needed to get me going but I'm still unsure if I want to put the diesel engine into the '92 TD shell or into my '90 gasser. The '90 is in far nicer shape and will require less work.
Here are a couple of pictures of the gasser in winter mode.
And one in summer mode.
I'll get some pictures of the TD shell tomorrow.
This winter I will be rebuilding the engine and preparing a transaxle. That way it will be ready to go into whatever I decide. I'm looking to build a reasonably powerful engine that will get good economy while performing reliably every day. :twisted:
Thanks for tuning in,
Cody
Here is the progress from days 1-3. Engine teardown time!
A couple pics of the bottom end. I haven't yet devised a safe way to get the crank pulley off without wrecking anything. Until I do that the crank will stay in.
My diesel shelf! :twisted:
Parts organized on the bench.
The pistons look pretty much brand new. Pretty good for a motor that supposedly has 180,000 - 200,000 km on it.
Standard issue mastercraft 1-1/16" wrench ground down for injector removal.
Using my home made valve spring compressor to remove valve spring keepers after the injectors and glow plugs have been removed.
That's it for today. Overall I'm pretty pleased with how the engine looks so far. Apologies for not getting more breakdown pics. The poor utility sink has been getting quite the workout trying cope with all the grease and diesel gunk.
Clearly you're a dedicated diesel guy... the IP is blocking the best part of your Bud poster.
Redline MTL for the tranny.... excellent.
Looks like you're a mountain biker too FTW. :lol:
A 4-foot piece of angle iron with a half circle cut in one end and bolted to the crank sprocket is the bee's knees for holding the crank while you fuss with the crank bolt... there's a picture or two of Andrew's over on the Homemade Tool sticky at
www.vwdieselparts.com.
looks good!
you need too come down and straiten my garage out like yours!
mine is just kayos :roll:
Duane
Thanks for the heads up Vince. I will construct an angle iron breaker tomorrow. Since I have an early engine with the 6 point crank bolt, I will want to replace that with the newer 12 point version correct?
I like mountain biking too but don't seem to get out enough anymore. There are some kick ass trails around here. Everything from entry level XC trails to full on freeriding and lift accessed biking at resorts too. If you're ever out this way let me know and I'll give you a heads up on some areas to check out.
Thanks Duane! I spent most of yesterday building the diesel shelf, cleaning and organizing. I'm sure in another week it won't look much different than yours. lol. I don't have a garage to work with so I have to settle for the basement. Getting the engine down the stairs was quite the chore.
My folks live in Kamloops so I bring my bike there whenever I can... Sun Peaks, Kenna Cartright, and all the other delights Kamloops has to offer... the Okanagan is fantastic ain't it !! Probably as close to Moab as I'll get.
Yep, you want the 12-point... but I bet that's all the dealer will sell you anyways.
jesus....
is that cheater bar nessisary?
Does the crank need to come off if you're getting boreing done?
Because of that, you can torque a bolt to a bar block without the thing trying to roll around the garage floor.
Andrew
The rolling part is supposed to happen, it builds character and language skills.
Because of that, you can torque a bolt to a bar block without the thing trying to roll around the garage floor.
Andrew
The rolling part is supposed to happen, it builds character and language skills.
dude haaa haaa!!! now thats funny jim! i can't stop laughing
and i can so clearly see my self obtaining those skills!
now thats funny stuff!
Duane
Because of that, you can torque a bolt to a bar block without the thing trying to roll around the garage floor.
Andrew
The rolling part is supposed to happen, it builds character and language skills.
dude haaa haaa!!! now thats funny jim! i can't stop laughing
and i can so clearly see my self obtaining those skills!
now thats funny stuff!
Duane
Ya I've obtained those skills..
At times I attempt to hide them from my children..
is that cheater bar nessisary?
Does the crank need to come off if you're getting boreing done?
Um, yes and yes..
plus you might want to replace the crank seal. With the oil pan off you can wedge the crank with a block of wood & torque away, but using the bar is MUCH better.
Can someone please shout me these torque specs and procedure?
My folks live in Kamloops so I bring my bike there whenever I can... Sun Peaks, Kenna Cartright, and all the other delights Kamloops has to offer... the Okanagan is fantastic ain't it !! Probably as close to Moab as I'll get.
That's cool, I went to college in Kamloops. I loved how I could walk out my door in any direction and have an awesome trail to bike or hike 500 feet away.
Can someone please shout me these torque specs and procedure?
I can't find the procedure in the Bentley but I did find the chart with the torque specs. The hex head bolt with washer needs to be tightened to 111 ft. lbs. The 12 point bolt gets torqued to 66 ft. lbs, then it gets an additional 180°. It says to use lubrication with both procedures.
