Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D - page 11 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #150 by theman53 on 11 May, 2010 00:02
• Thanks for the info. The mount insert above says that it is just to stiffen a little, not like a solid. I just want a little life out of it. I suppose that mount isn't too bad to unbolt from the engine if I don't like stock.
• #151 by mystery3 on 11 May, 2010 01:01
• I have the inserts on driver and passenger side of my caddy, they vibrate significantly more than worn out old rubber mounts but no where near the level that solid mounts would vibrate. Solid mounts on a diesel would be insane my neon had a solid front mount and transmission mount it was bearable but that motor is silk compared to these 1.6L's. I did notice improved throttle response with the inserts and I like rattly stuff, I actually know when the car is running or not running!
• #152 by theman53 on 16 May, 2010 22:19
• 
  
  
  I am trying to mock up the oil lines, downpipe, and block breather. Basically anything that might fight me when in the car. I am making a support for the DP off of the block, so the flex does its job instead of putting undue strain on the tubing itself. I hope this is a good idea.
• #153 by NintendoKD on 17 May, 2010 01:00
• OOOOH! SOFT CORE nice work, looks very clean.
• #154 by theman53 on 23 May, 2010 00:45
• Pic loaded.
  I am pretty proud as I haven't ever done anything like this before. Special thanks to Dakotakid for the fender that made this possible.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  and this is some stuff that Gee-Bee sent for me to do the heater box. Great feeling stuff.
  
  
• #155 by burn_your_money on 23 May, 2010 09:39
• I like it.
  
  I think your brace idea is very wise. What mounting bolts will you be using on the block?
• #156 by lord_verminaard on 23 May, 2010 12:24
• FYI, you might have axle to oil-drain interference.  Mine looked very similar to that at first, and they did interfere.
  
  Brendan
• #157 by GEE-BEE on 23 May, 2010 12:49
• Thanx it is AMS3195 E Silicone foam with a acrylic sticky backing
  
  Cheer's
  
  GB
  
  P.S. The waves are great here !  ( South Pacific )
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   
• #158 by theman53 on 23 May, 2010 13:34
• Quote from: burn_your_money on 23 May, 2010 09:39

  I like it.
  
  I think your brace idea is very wise. What mounting bolts will you be using on the block?
  

  So far I have cut some bolts off and made studs that go into the back of the block. There are 3  M8-1.25 threaded bosses around where the 1.6D is on the back. I was going to try and triangle a brace from them. I think I will then weld a piece to the DP with a slot in it so it can be easily bolted together. I am open to any suggestions though.
  
  

  Quote from: lord_verminaard on 23 May, 2010 12:24

  FYI, you might have axle to oil-drain interference.  Mine looked very similar to that at first, and they did interfere.
  
  Brendan
  

  Thanks for the heads up. I wouldn't have ever guessed that. The line is fairly flexible and I cut it long, so I may have some options. What did you do?
  
  Anyone have the complete guide to swapping 90mm to 100mm cv?
  
  A body man I am not. I am quite proud of what I have accomplished, but it isn't quite show quality. The closer it comes to painting it, the more I think I may wait.
• #159 by NintendoKD on 23 May, 2010 16:02
• Quote from: GEE-BEE on 23 May, 2010 12:49

  Thanx it is AMS3195 E Silicone foam with a acrylic sticky backing
  
  Cheer's
  
  GB
  
  P.S. The waves are great here !  ( South Pacific )
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   
  

  
  Try stopping by Okinawa, it's nice there and pretty cheap, and the folks are real nice.  Enjoy the vacation.
• #160 by lord_verminaard on 25 May, 2010 12:51
• I got a -10 AN 90* pushlok fitting from Jegs, the fitting I welded on the pan is pretty shallow, so the fitting basically points straight up.
  
  Since I didn't have any choice before, I "threaded" the axle between the drain line and block and ran it that way for a while.  It did rub some, when I removed it, some of the stainless line was worn away.  I fixed it by replacing it with a 90* fitting when I had to replace the passenger side axle but then ended up cross-threading the -AN fitting when attaching it to the pan.  It leaked some, but I ran it that way for a while once again.
  
  I just now fixed it a final time and used a pushlok fitting instead with a clamp, that way if I have to pull the turbo it will be a lot easier than messing with a traditional -AN type fitting.
  
  ...Of course, I also installed a catch-can, and there was too much restriction and it popped the dipstick tube out blowing 2 quarts of oil during my commute home....
  
  Someday this thing will be leak-free.   
  Brendan
  
• #161 by theman53 on 25 May, 2010 18:06
• Thanks for the tip. I might try to sit it down in the engine bay tonight and see what it looks like. The line is flexible enough I maybe able to zip tie it to the mount out of the way. My fitting in the pan is welded and not able to be changed. I asked about making a stainless like my feed line and my cost with the fittings will still be about 30 bucks. So this one will wear in...hopefully before it wears out.
  
  still up for ideas on the DP brace if any have some
• #162 by Smokey Eddy on 25 May, 2010 19:22
• I really really like your DP brace. I need to make one.
  Also, i used (haha) craft foam sheets from walmart and used elmer glue to hold it to my heaterbox doors.
  
  my one word of advice is to make sure the doors are overlapping. you dont want to cut the sheets to the size of the metal doors. you want it to over lap a bit and get a perfect seal.
  The difference is incredible.
  
  as for ideas on the brace. I think your have it right in that picture there. use the two bolt holes (Edit: sorry there are three) in the block to make a brace. make it out of 1/4' angle iron.
  tools needed: welder of any kind, file, something to cut the angle iron with - a chop saw works great but a hacksaw will do the trick, and a drill to drill bolt holes!!! Or if you're really good you could get some flat bar and stack them, then drill & tap.
• #163 by theman53 on 01 Jun, 2010 22:01
• Fender is welded inside and out. I didn't worry too much about the inside as I will bury it all in undercoat. I also started the patch in the back of the fender I didn't know was there until I was going around the car hitting stuff to make sure it was all solid. I have to weld a hole in the pass rear rocker, the holes for the plastic pieces on the driver rear, and my downpipe brace. After that I believe the rust bucket will just be a bucket and in no more need of welding. I have used about one and a half 11lbs spools(15-16lbs for the mathmatically challenged) of .023" wire so far.
  
  I had to cut the oil drian out of the pan. There is NO WAY a 45 degree fitting will work with the hole I have drilled. I need to get another fitting and weld that.
  
  I need to get the trans back from brokevw.
  
  I need to decide if I am painting it now and if so should I stay stock or go black. I love the black:D
  
  I believe it is just a bunch of parts that need assembled for the most part and hopefully end of June it will smoke to life. I will post the pics of the fender if anyone is interested. I need to take some first.
• #164 by lord_verminaard on 02 Jun, 2010 10:23
• Sounds like it's coming along!
  
  If you've already paid Brian for the tranny work, I could swing by and grab it from him tomorrow on my way home from work, I'm off on Friday so if you're in the Mt. Vernon area I can hand it off to you.  Might cut your trip in half or so.  Otherwise, I'll probably see him this weekend at Cincy and I could grab it then.
  
  Let me know if I can help you out.  There are advantages to working in Columbus. 
  
  Brendan