Thankfully I only feel dumb...no dumb injuries. Probably lost 10 years or so off the end of my life span due to heart racing. It is just starting to get funny. I am normally so even, never get too bent out of shape, nice and calm, and in this situation I was anything but
I should have taken the camera tonight I cut up the fender and it is real close to welding it on. Man I got the hillbilly going on
. I will never do this again, I will buy a rust free car next time. If there is a next time there maybe rust, but no gaping holes. I also will have about 200 in paint as I priced it today.
My bolt kit came in for the 020. There is just too much to work on at one time. Hopefully it isn't going to be too much longer now.
I was welding the roof supports back in the Rabbit the other day, welding over my head so I put an old jacket over me to keep sparks off.
Threw the coat on the roof when I was done,
next thing I look there's a huge plume of smoke coming off it.
My car wasn't in danger of burning to ground in the shed so I didn't freak out too bad.
I can almost imagine your state, everything is in the way and has to be moved before you can save your car, zooming around.
Would have been a prize-winning video.
Glad everything worked out.
Onward with the progress.
I saw an insert for the MKII passenger rear engine mount that was supposed to stiffen it. Is this worthwhile or not. I don't intend to take the engine out once it is in there so now is the time if it is good. looks like this:
Also, good to hear you didn't burn your car down Fatmobile.
I got the fender fitting well today. I also got the mains and rods torqued and ready to go *again* since the TDI sprocket. Today as well the 4crawler shifting kit came. Now it looks like the big deal is the trans and paint. I was really sweating the BF Hole in the pass fender, but now it is as simple as welding it up.
BTW how much should a guy paint on the cam and trans side of the engine? I haven't really painted much and didn't know how critical it was. Let me know please
from last page
I don't know if this is the correct way to do body repair, but this is how I roll...now fitted ready to weld
That ^ is what the only big damage was from the fire. The one little piece that is melted to the bigger piece is what the other melted peice looked like. They were pretty much right there and that is how hot it was in the rear seat area to melt them
Pretty Nifty there Lucas, I woulda filled that hole with bondo. So your a step in the right direction ;P
How do you have a 5 lug tire on an mk2?
looks like a wheel cover to me Tyler
your build has inspired me to paint EVERYTHING black when i get it
that way it will match my cam cover & oil filter and IC plumbing. oh and my wire shielding is all black. i want to keep the head aluminum though
Yeah it is a cover.The other side looks way cooler as it has about 25 small spokes for a cover.
What about the Engine mount I posted earlier? Should I do it or not? I need to order a SPEEDO cable *hate the speedo* and figure if this is something worthwhile I will get it while I get the cable.
EDIT
of course my post would wrap to the next page. Here is what I was posting about.
Lost this.
I think my mom or dad didn't know what it was and it went to the garbage.It was found I just had to get the picture out there and let everyone know what I was looking for.
I am still looking for an answer on the engine mount above. Anyone have experience with any stiffer passenger rear mount? All imput helpful.
the combustion of a diesel is a violent process, that is why they make the identifiable "rumble" that all diesels have. Solid mounts would be the best idea, as poly would rattle the car apart and be very uncomfortable to you. I will be using a modified solid mount to put my rankenmotor into a 2001 toyota MR2 Spyder. This topic has been highlighted several times in the past. It comes down to preference. Most drivers who have done the switch in the past have hated it and wsitched back, in other words if you don't mind it don't matter. Doing the inserts is, in my opinion, a bad iea. For this reason, the rubber will wear out and have to be replaced, making the idea of a mount that doesn't wear out go right out the window.
thanks,
Kevin
Valve cover was found!!!
On the engine mount:
I guess I was thinking that if I could make it stiffer the engine wouldn't flex as much. Then hopefully I wouldn't rely on the flex coupler in the exhaust or the brace I am making for the DP as much. If the mount won't last as long I will not spend the money. I was also thinking it might last longer since it shouldn't be flexing as much, but I can see where it would stress the rubber more where it does flex. I don't want to go solid as I have my mud buggy and other things with solid mounts and on a daily driver I think it would vibrate so bad my teeth would itch.
Thanks for the reply and let me know if what I was thinking makes any sense.
I ran a skiff (bathtub with a huge engine for holding one end of the fish net) and it had a 6cyl 250hp volvo penta with solid mounts and it was crazy how bad it vibrated! The whole boat echoed and buzzed it was terrible. These are lots smaller engines but I'd for sure want something to dampen it.