Author Topic: Head Bolts or Studs on 11mm 1.6 (Read 3271 times)

conor · « **on:** September 23, 2008, 12:36:28 pm »

Doing a rebuild on an 11mm head and block. Have actually already purchased, but not installed the stock stretch bolts but it seems that the consensus is that I should really go with ARP or Raceware head studs...especially if i plan on putting on a turbo.

Anyone know a good source or part number for the appropriate head studs, or have any other recommendations?

cheers,
conor

saurkraut · « **Reply #1 on:** September 23, 2008, 01:14:10 pm »

If you still have the reciept, return the 11mm head bolts. There is an 80% chance that you will break the block installing them.

Buy Raceware or ARP. Either will be fine.

Raceware

ARP

autoholic · « **Reply #2 on:** September 23, 2008, 01:24:48 pm »

Damn, wish I thought about that, I should have done that too. Maybe I'll do that this winter. I just re torqued my head and I really do not like the feel of those stretch bolts, the initial stiction when re torqueing them takes more torque then spec calls for, seemed inaccurate.
What did you end up doing to that motor, everything?
What head did you use? I wish I just bought a new head instead of spending all the dough on the used one I went with.
You'll have a nice caddy when it's done, good luck.

autoholic · « **Reply #3 on:** September 23, 2008, 01:45:05 pm »

Question: Is it possible to install the studs with out pulling the head? can they be done one by one with out changing HG? Probably not, but that would be nice and easy!

zukgod1 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 23, 2008, 03:15:25 pm »

I don't see why you cant.

Remove one at a time and torque as you go.

Turbinepowered · « **Reply #5 on:** September 23, 2008, 03:40:15 pm »

Quote from: "zukgod1"

I don't see why you cant.

Remove one at a time and torque as you go.

Perhaps also remove them one at a time in either the head bolt removing or installing sequence? Anyone have an opinion and some experience to back up the recommendation?

autoholic · « **Reply #6 on:** September 23, 2008, 04:11:00 pm »

Yea, that's what I was thinking. How do these studs screw in? is there a tool surface on them like an allen in the center or something? do you just snug them down?
I already had this head off a couple of extra times while rebuilding this motor (If you remember a previous post of mine:() I really do not want to tear it apart again right now.
Seeing that I did not get crucified for suggesting it, I'm gonna get the studs and try it.

VW_Commuter · « **Reply #7 on:** September 23, 2008, 04:20:19 pm »

The instructions that I've seen for ARP head studs is to insert them finger tight, apply their assembly lube to the threads and bottom of the nut and install on thread. If this is an install with a new head gasket then after you get all 10 on you torque the nuts, in the proper sequence per the Bentley, in 3 stages to the max torque of what ARP specifies. They have two different torque specs, one for using their assembly lube and one for using 30W motor oil.

There is a link floating around of how to install the studs with the head still bolted to the block without having to replace the head gasket. It might be here, the vwdieselparts.com forums, or on the Vortex forums.

autoholic · « **Reply #8 on:** September 23, 2008, 04:46:34 pm »

Cool I'll look around for that.

65 Notchback, nice! I just went to a VW show and got all pumped on the aircooled scene again. I'd love to build a fast aircooled some day.

rallydiesel · « **Reply #9 on:** September 23, 2008, 05:37:35 pm »

Quote from: "autoholic"

Yea, that's what I was thinking. How do these studs screw in? is there a tool surface on them like an allen in the center or something? do you just snug them down?

There is an Allen key recess on the top of the stud.

jtanguay · « **Reply #10 on:** September 23, 2008, 05:47:17 pm »

yep remove the bolts one at a time and torque the head stud in.

i like the idea of having the allen head on the ARP studs, but raceware seem better. mostly because of their anti friction coating.

conor · « **Reply #11 on:** September 24, 2008, 07:03:05 am »

Quote from: "autoholic"

Damn, wish I thought about that, I should have done that too. Maybe I'll do that this winter. I just re torqued my head and I really do not like the feel of those stretch bolts, the initial stiction when re torqueing them takes more torque then spec calls for, seemed inaccurate.
What did you end up doing to that motor, everything?
What head did you use? I wish I just bought a new head instead of spending all the dough on the used one I went with.
You'll have a nice caddy when it's done, good luck.

Mark,
Good to hear from you...it took me a few seconds to figure out who would know about the caddy, but your sammy and the VT gave it away. Yeah, progress is a little slow on the caddy, since the car is 2 hrs away...but its coming along. Head just needed a cleaning, new valve guides...had almost no cracks between the valves. I ended up going with that POR-15 engine painting kit for the block, which seemed to come out well. Here are a few pics (downsized for your speedy internet):

Metal-Ready/Cleaning:

Primer:

Enamel:

...I've got emails in to ARP and Raceware about getting head studs for the 11mm block, so i'll see about that. Best of luck with the rest of your sammy...looked pretty good from the last update.

conor

autoholic · « **Reply #12 on:** September 24, 2008, 01:15:54 pm »

Hi Conor,
Did you end up boring it? what did you end up with for piston to cyl clearance? D&D doing the machine work?

I'll post some updated pics of the Sami soon. I got my AWIC today and will be installing it soon I hope (I bought it for the MBZ, but decided to use it in the Samurai, I'll get another one for the MBZ this winter, those things are a steal at $79)
Still lots of little stuff to do to get it on the road, but its back to functional offroad thrasher status, I've been running it quite a bit, already put it on it's side again.