how do you guys make the rev gauge working again? there's no W pol on the generator?
ask your electrician to make a connection inside from one of the stators connections, any one will do I guess, but he knows
that's the W terminal.
What alternator/generator do you have? All the Mk3 serp units "90 and 120amp variations" I have seen/had have functional W terminals on them.
The solution is as mentioned if you don't indeed have the w terminal.
Joe
simple, take the black plastic cover off, you will see about 4 or 5 metal diodey prongs sticking out, simply solder a wire on to one of them feed it through the black cover, job done, get your signal from that who needs a terminal?
thats what i did, its never let me down
Well, I've alread had the black cover off, didn't really see the diodes? they were behind a metal cover? The alternator? or generator? Can't remember in english
but there's kida metal cover, over the diode bridge?
Could any of ya might take a picture of what you've done ? That would help me alot, I'm not keen tinkering with that thing
i swapped an m-tdi onto a mk2 golf, and now my rpm gauge reads higher than normal, beacuse the pulleys have a different ratio...does anyone know how to adjust the rev counter?
I'm not sure about your cluster specifically but there might be a small hole on the back of your tach where you can adjust it with a small flat head screwdriver. It may be covered with a sticker.
might have used a wrong part of the alternator, is fell in revs and said funny sounds, but it's still going... :\
When i'm doing as it's said in the link earlier, my rev starts at 3000 revs, and the warning buzzer goes off ?
** Also suddenly after having the tacho out, I lost my backlight in it? :S all the other things work
You definitely can't adjust 3k rpms out of it so something is mixed up. The wire should go directly from the crimp point on the alt to your pin for the tach on the back of the cluster. You'll have to get out your bentley and track that down or google it.
I'm going to venture a guess that your tach is not compatible with the output from the 1Z alt. If your original engine was a gasser it won't work unless you use a dakota device to transform the signal.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=128/prd128.htmThe "W" location is the same as soldering on a wire to a crimp point.
I used a tach from an 85 Jetta II diesel, relines at 5k+, for my 1Z instead of the dakota device. You might find a tach from a vw diesel that will swap into your cluster.
Can you post a pic of your current cluster/tach?