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#15
by
mtnbob
on 13 Sep, 2008 13:59
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Sorry for all the questions, but i'm a rookie :shock: finally found a 8mm 12pt and it fits into my 8mm socket, but is there a way to keep the axel from turning when you try to unloosen the bolts?
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#16
by
Smokey Eddy
on 13 Sep, 2008 14:26
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Put it in gear perhaps?
that may seem obvious to me but maybe im the one confused and you're talking about something entirely different. or maybe im an idiot.
I'd use an impact gun if you have access to one. Best and sometimes worst tools in the world.
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#17
by
burn_your_money
on 13 Sep, 2008 19:20
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I don't think putting it in gear works because of the diff and one tire being off the ground.
Step on the brakes, or have a friend do that. Or use a piece of wood wedged against the seat and the brake pedal.
I just use an impact gun (electric) best $75 I ever spent
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#18
by
Dakotakid
on 14 Sep, 2008 10:02
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Bob, leave one wheel on the ground.
Lay on your back with the car jacked and safely blocked (no falls) loosen one or two bolts.
Reach up and use the shift rod from the shifter to take it out of gear. Rotate axle/wheel to get to next bolt or bolts.
Put it back in gear......wash, rinse, repeat, go back to Walmart and get more!!!!
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#19
by
jtanguay
on 14 Sep, 2008 10:06
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i used an impact gun to remove them. very easy! tightening them was easy as well.
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#20
by
Smokey Eddy
on 15 Sep, 2008 03:27
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75$ electric impact gun? What is this tom foolery...
the only electril impact i saw was like 400$
where on earth did you find that. Does it have enough torque?
Please PM me im interested... perhaps ill just pm you
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#21
by
VelocityConservation
on 15 Sep, 2008 05:51
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MtnBob,
With "last leg" axles like you have. I put a good set of vice-grips on the axle shaft so that it is resting against the control arm. to keep the axle from turning.
But impact wrenches are the way to go, even the old fashioned hand ones like this:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000PIs better than just trying to do them by hand.
VelocityConservation
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#22
by
burn_your_money
on 15 Sep, 2008 10:01
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They come on sale at Candian Tire a few times a year. There aren't a lot of bolts that it can't take off. It does take a while though. I wouldn't mind a bit more torque but for the price, 100% worthwhile
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#23
by
mtnbob
on 15 Sep, 2008 17:44
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I have now sheared off the screw that goes into the brake rotor :shock:
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#24
by
Vincent Waldon
on 15 Sep, 2008 17:55
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No worries... there was a 90% chance that was going to happen... especially if the screw was original (no antiseize).
You can either live without it (makes it a tiny bit more of a challenge when installing your wheels since the brake rotor will not automatically be aligned with the hub), or drill it out and install a new one... 75 cents from the dealer.
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#25
by
mtnbob
on 15 Sep, 2008 18:55
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thanks for the reply wasn't sure if it was completely necessary :shock:
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#26
by
burn_your_money
on 16 Sep, 2008 20:21
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My first 3 VWs all had that screw completely snapped off before I bought them. I didn't even know it existed until the 4th one :lol: