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Outer CV boot Completely Gone is CV joint shot?
by
mtnbob
on 11 Sep, 2008 20:21
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I knew something was wrong from the thumping noise, but when I checked out today, I noticed the outer boot was completely gone. The tuned absorber had slipped down closer to the wheel, and I believe was the source of the noise. It didn't sound like the standard clicking noise at all. When I do a tight circle with the car, there is no clicking at all. My question is, can I just take the shaft out, clean up the joint area, regrease the joint, and put a new boot on it? Also how hard is it to remove the hex bolts? Any suggestions or tricks that would help me on removal of the shaft? Any input is appreciated!!
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#1
by
CoolAirVw
on 11 Sep, 2008 20:56
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My question is, can I just take the shaft out, clean up the joint area, regrease the joint, and put a new boot on it?
Yes. But some will argue that if its missing the boot dirt and water will have ruined the joing. Its a matter of opinion.
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#2
by
mtnbob
on 11 Sep, 2008 22:01
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On my other cars, when the CV joint starts going, it starts clicking. This one is not, so that is why I'm wondering if I can clean it, regrease it, and put a new boot on. Do VW CV joints start clicking, first mildly, then worse, when they start going bad?
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#3
by
rallydiesel
on 11 Sep, 2008 22:17
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There's no reason you can't try to repack it. Just made sure the bearings and races aren't scored.
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#4
by
burn_your_money
on 11 Sep, 2008 23:16
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Also how hard is it to remove the hex bolts?
If you are talking about the ones that hold the inner CV to the tranny, those aren't hex bolts. They are 8mm 12pt internal bolts. Make sure you get the right tool, sometimes called
triple square They aren't too bad with an impact. Long extensions (like 3 feet worth) is pretty much manditory on the passanger side
I think you could just repack it and go if ti isn't piled full of grit
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#5
by
mtnbob
on 12 Sep, 2008 00:28
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Ty for the info tyler
Do i need air tools? Is it possible with hand tools alone? It is the passenger side :shock: Guess I better get the PB blaster on there now and let it start soaking
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#6
by
fatmobile
on 12 Sep, 2008 01:18
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Sometimes you can't tell if they are junk until you pull the CV apart to clean it.
If I see areas in the outer CV that are eaten away, I replace it.
but if it's not clicking you are probably OK.
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#7
by
Smokey Eddy
on 12 Sep, 2008 03:11
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my boots have been broken for over a year but i just check them to make sure they still hold lots of grease. No clicking yet...
well made parts i guess?
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#8
by
the caveman
on 12 Sep, 2008 19:21
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If it was a japanese or american car i would say almost for sure it is toast, however if it's the original or german replacement just repack it and you'll probably be okay.
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#9
by
Dirtrag2
on 12 Sep, 2008 19:31
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If it was a japanese or american car i would say almost for sure it is toast, however if it's the original or german replacement just repack it and you'll probably be okay.
I beg to differ, I owned a '91 GMC Jimmy 4X4 and driver's side boot was torn for close to a year before I had to take the hub off for a bearing, and I loved off roading thru the mud up to the doors :twisted:
but, Caveman, you have nothing to loose in cleaning and repacking the old joint, worts case scenario is that il won't last and you'll have to replace it.
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#10
by
Dakotakid
on 12 Sep, 2008 23:53
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I simply want to add that I hope you are planning on disassembling the joint and looking over the cage and balls and inner joint machined "races." A lot depends on just how dry it all got and what shape the joint was in to begin with.
Then, you need to decide if you are interested in long-term or short-term "fix." It's one of those learning-curve issues.
It is true that, once again, the German work ethic of heat treatment comes into play here. Just how good was the carbon infusion process that they used. Cheaper joints will wear through their thinner hardened surface much faster.
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#11
by
mtnbob
on 13 Sep, 2008 10:34
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i'm pulling it today if i can find a 8 mm 12 point tool around here :shock: Do i need to buy new bolts? or just reuse them if i don't destroy them getting them off
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#12
by
jtanguay
on 13 Sep, 2008 11:21
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i'm pulling it today if i can find a 8 mm 12 point tool around here :shock: Do i need to buy new bolts? or just reuse them if i don't destroy them getting them off
i've re-used them, but i think in the bentley it says to use new bolts... i highly recommend cleaning the bolts before putting them back in though. so much grease and grime on mine when i took them off (because the surrounding area was pretty grimey)
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#13
by
mtnbob
on 13 Sep, 2008 14:15
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Anyone here have a source for the bolts and tool? No one around here has either
:shock:
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#14
by
jtanguay
on 13 Sep, 2008 14:27
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i'd say just re-use the bolts. they're around what, 33ft/lbs torque each? mine are fine and i just gave good and tight, then a wee bit more.
our local NAPA here sells them. about $8